Column flexible woven satin everyone 2018

Here are pictures of the Taig Micro Lathe and Taig Milling Machine, pictures of my machines and other Taig users machines, modifications and projects.
I want pictures! Send me your Taig pictures and I will post them. Mods, projects, even your machine just sitting on the bench.
Last Updated June 1st, 2017

Table of Contents

Sections with new additions in Bold type, new pictures in Bold type.
This page can be a bit unwieldy, but you will find a lot of treasures by poking around. 
Use the "find" function of your browser to search for particular words (usually ctrl + "f" keys, pressed together.)
For the latest pictures it's easier to look at the , which presents the pictures in a much easier to read format.



  • NEW PICTURES:  (June 1st, 2017) : , , ,
  •  (June 1st, 2017)
    Individual sections for those with a large amount of pictures:
  • (February 15th, 2005)
  • (August 8th, 2001)
  • (October 3rd, 2001)
  • (May 28th, 2001)
  • (May 24th, 2005)
  • (October 4th, 2005)
  • (September 1st, 2007)
  • (January 10th, 2003)
  • (January 24th, 2004)
  • (April 6th, 2006)
  • (June 10th, 2008)
  • (January 26th, 2005)
  • (April 6th, 2004)
  • (January 31st, 2006)
  • (May 6th, 2004)
  • (July 25th, 2004)
  • (August 30th, 2004)
  • (July 11th, 2006)
  • (January 1st, 2005)
  • (March 9th, 2005)
  • (July 27th, 2005)
  • (April 8th, 2005)
  • (April 29th, 2005)
  • .(May 24th, 2005)
  • (June 9th, 2005)
  • (July 6th, 2005)
  • (July 27th, 2005)
  • (August 23rd, 2005)
  • (July 11th, 2006)
  • , Speed control, and other projects. (October 4th, 2005)
  • filing rest and other stuff. (January 4th, 2006)
  • (January 4th, 2006)
  • (April 6th, 2006)
  • He's working on a flight simulator cockpit (April 28th, 2006)
  • has an excellent and unique radius turning tool on his lathe (April 28th, 2006)
  • does a lot of modifications to his Taig mill. (May 18th, 2006)
  • has a compact shop and has modifed his mill and lathe.(July 11th, 2006)
  • Taig Lathe, Metal Pens and Pencils (September 1st, 2007)
  • Extended bed Taig Lathe and Mill Modifications. (March 10th, 2009)
  • Taig Mill CNC Setup pictures (October 29th, 2006)
  • Homebrew CNC Lathe with Taig Headstock (December 12th, 2006)
  • s Taig Lathe and Plastic Injection Mold work. (January 26th, 2010)
  • Taig Lathe (February 19th, 2007)
  • (June 12th, 2007)
  • (July 24th, 2007)
  • (September 1st, 2007)
  • (August 8th, 2009)
  • (September 1st, 2007)
  • (August 23rd, 2016)
  • (December 30th, 2007)
  • (August 6th, 2007)
  • and CAD drawings (June 10th, 2008)
  • Taig (Grimberg) Lathe (April 22nd, 2008)
  • Taig Lathe and home made accessories (January 26th, 2010)
  • Modified Taig Lathe and Accessories (April 22nd, 2008)
  • 's Taig Lathe and Airgun-Smithing projects (April 2nd, 2009)
  • (October 15th, 2008)
  • (October 7th, 2009)
  • (January 7th, 2010)
  •  (November 12th, 2009)
  • (November 12th, 2009)
  • (February 24th, 2010)
  • (March 15th, 2010)
  • (May 22nd, 2010)
  • (April 20th, 2010)
  • (May 22nd, 2010)
  • (January 10th, 2010)
  • Taig Lathe (August 23rd, 2016)
  • Taig Lathe and Taig CNC Mill (January 10th, 2010)
  • Taig Mill (March 3rd, 2011)
  • Sherline Motor Adaptation to the Taig Mill (April 7th, 2011)
  • Compound Slide Modifications (June 14th, 2012)
  • Mill Mods (April 21st, 2014)
  • lathe modifications (April 21st, 2014)
  • lathe modifications (April 21st, 2014)
  • Taig Lathe (June 1st, 2017)

  • (July 1st, 2001)
  • (January 18th, 2003)
The L1017 Assembled Taig Lathe with 1150 tailstock, 1097D tool bit, 1023 mounting board, 1162 pulley set and 1192 drill chuck Depth stop for workpiece in chuck 4 jaw 3 1/4" dia. chuck 3/4-16 thd mount jaws adjusted independently (reversable heat treated steel jaws) Lathe Dog, holds work piece while turning between centers. Face plate 3 1/4" dia. 3/4-16 thd mount Face plate angle bracket set Face plate, 2" dia. 3/4-16 thd mount 4 inch swivel joint tool rest (wood turners) Collet set, collet closer with 8 collet sizes 1/8,5/32,3/16,7/32,1/4,9/32,5/16 and one blank 4 blank collets furnished unslotted for making special arbors (may be bored and slotted) 3 Jaw 3 1/4" dia. self centering scroll chuck (steel body) with reversable aluminum soft jaws 3/4-16 thd. Additional blank soft jaw set for 3 jaw chuck Full circle soft jaw set for 3 jaw chuck 4 Jaw 3 1/4" dia. self centering scroll chuck (steel body) with aluminum soft jaws 3/4-16 thd. 1/16-3/8" Jacobs drill chuck, commercial quality 3/8-24 thd. 6 piece high speed steel tool bit set, left,right,45 degree,round nose,boring bar, and cut off Slitting saw arbor, screws directly on spindle including wrench Slitting saw arbor, 3/8 shanik for ER16 3/8" collet .032 X 2 1/2" dia high speed slitting saw Grinding wheel arbor, screws directly on spindle Grinding wheel set Blank arbor 1.00" dia. screws directly on spindle (may be machined for special jobs) Blank arbor Drill chuck arbor (3/8-24 thread), attaches Jacobs chucks to headstock spindle Drilling tailstock, lever operated 5/8" off set with dead center, 3/8-24 thd for drill chucks Needle bearing center, spring loaded (fits in tailstock) Die holder for tailstock (will accept 13/16" and 1.00" button dies) Spare Gates polyurethane vee belt(est. belt life 5000 hours) No.3M 315 12 1/2" flat length Spare Gates polyurethane vee belt(est. belt life 5000 hours) No.3M 500 20" flat length Pulley set as above for 1/2" shaft motor STD 3M 315 belt included (3M 500 belt optional) Extra tool post (same as supplied with lathe) Back tool post, tool bit mounts upside down, 2 tools may be used at same time T Bar Cut off Tool, height adjustable (available 12/15/00) Steady rest 3/32" to 1 1/2" capacity Top slide (compound) mounts on crosslide for cutting tapers and angles Radius Turner, swings Tool Bit in arc Milling attachment mounts directly on crosslide (2 x 3 3/4" table) 3/4-16 chuck adapter, adapts chuck to mill table Fly Cutter, 1 1/4 to 2 1/2 inch diameter, 3/4-16 thread mount, tool bit included. Fly Cutter, 3/8" shank for use in the 3.8" ER16 collet, imported. Milling vice, 2.125" opening x 2" wide Riser block kit for headstock and tool post (provides 6.00 swing tailstock riser not incl) Tailstock riser only 1" Spindle Wrench

Taig CNC Mill Pictures
Also see .

The Manual Mill in Action
(most pictures of the older style manual mill)

  • , so that 3/8" wide, 1/2" deep, 4.5" long slot can be milled in a 11"x8" Al plate.

  • (could be 3/4", or any distance you like).
  • No great precision is required here.
  • (#7 drill for 1/4"-20tpi, #21 drill for #10-32tpi)
  • Piece was moved along so that vise always clamped and supported the bar where the holes were being drilled.
  • Set the clutch so that the taps won't break and lube the tap. Use a "gun" tap.
  • If you don't have one, give some thought to buying one, they aren't expensive and save a lot of time!
  • Remember this isn't rocket science, I'm not working to +/- .001"!
  • . (notice that parallells are missing in this picture, but support the work on parallels or the work will slip)
  • I took several .050" deep passes with a 1/4" endmill. (notice the parallels in this picture.)
  • .
  • (bonus question: what is wrong with this picture?)

Don't have time to make clamps? You can buy a nice set, or individual components, from ()

Chris Hendricks sent me an intruiging drawing for making a little hovercraft out of a CD puck. I have to admit it need tweaking, as the balloon tends to drag along the table, slowing it down, but it does float on a cushion of air!. His drawing and puck can be found in the .

  • The form is 1/2" thick mahogany screwed to Sears 4" woodturning faceplate.
  • using polished 1/2 round reground screwdriver as spinning tool, beeswax for lubricant.

  • Since I needed another hobby, here are some pictures of work on plastic parts of a tank model

  • I made for my dad's birthday, entirely made on the Taig lathe and mill.

  • . Center is piece of steel, held in 4 jaw chuck with 60 deg. center turned on it. Note use of KENBO quick change tool holder.
  • finished parting off 3/8" Al rod.
  • Roughly 3" x 6". The "0"s are slightly faceted because I screwed up the polyline conversion. The 2 and 9 are smooth though!
  • and the top sanded to reveal the numbers.
  • on an existing steel part that was an odd diameter. This is how I held the part on the Taig mill using a 5C Hex Block, 1140ER drill chuck arbor, 1/2 drill chuck and my toolmakers screwless vise. I think it came out quite well...

  • This is the bracelet I entered.
  • , milled directly on the Taig CNC, for the same contest.

  • And no, I didn't win...
  • It allows for slightly greater travel and is smoother.
  • Note that the entire assembly is backwards compatible with older lathes, but the screw alone is not. They only supply these new screws.

When people send me a few pictures this is where they end up. I generally edit the picture for size, play with brightness etc. I tend to put new pictures at the bottom of this section, and put the description in bold text until the next update. I really appreciate pictures, and always welcome new ones, of any Taig lathe, mill, or projects done on the machines. Feel free to email me pictures in .jpg format, or mail a CD or regular photographs so I can scan them. If you send me enough, I'll give you your own section on this page.

  • , Notice jackshaft for greater speed control, and the indicator holder made of pipe-fittings.

  • Don Shaw made this with his Taig to allow him to use an electronic gyro on his r/c helicopter tail rotor
  • Jyurki Vuorinen shows what happened to his lathe in Los Alamos N.M., this summer: , .
    (Don't worry, I sold him another one at cost before he went back to Finland)
  • Captain AJ made his own

  • in 1/12th scale, Machined with the Taig Lathe.
  • , Notice gear selector in lower right corner!

  • .

  • . If I have time I'm going to redo the brass pocket cover. I took too deep cuts on the lips, and the mill stalled on the last pass; ended up finishing by hand. I was taking 0.005" per cut. When I get a new piece of brass I'll do it at 0.003". The pegs (6 round and 6 hex 1/4" brass) and the aluminum knob were done on the 7x10 minilathe from Harbor Freight. The 3-1/2" x 12" board is oak, stained with Minwax Golden Pecan and finished with 3 coats of polyurethane All in all, the project turned out rather well; the pics don't do it justice. The cover is engraved with my daughter's and her fiance's names, and "01 02 02," the date of their upcoming wedding.

  • Description: Ram - # 0 Morse taper, 1/4-20 LH lead screw, Self ejecting for Sherline length tooling. Two quarter turn locking handles, one for lathe bed locking, one for the tailstock ram. A standard type of tailstock stepover arrangement for close adjustments

  • "which I used the lathe for but didn't have the mill" and a simple box "which I made with help of the mill". "The robot axels were made on the lathe, and the main turning pin for the front wheel was turned down so the end was broad to hold it on. It turns very nicely, and there's no way I could have done anything like it without the lathe. "
  • is for the outlet of a vacuum pump which I dragged out of a trash dump. The pump itself is 40+ years old but in very good shape. I used the mill to make the ends of some aluminum bars nice and smooth and bolted them on to the pully drive. When I first tried the motor, the pully got really hot. But with the aluminum on there, the heat doesn't even get warm to the touch after hours of running. The brass box was soldered, and I got the sides accurate to within a thousandth using the mill.
  • - I used the Taig endmill to drill 127 .012" holes in a hex grid, and by eye it looks pretty damn exact. I used two Grizzly dial gauges, which are low cost but pretty nice. The most important thing was the smooth sides on the Taig mill bed. Without that, the dial gauges wouldn't have meant much. The people are Grizzly are pretty nice too, good follow up on my order! The holes are all .069" apart. I suspect it's better than .001" accurate too. I think it's pretty damn amazing!
  • It has a protective layer on both sides, and the large bubbles on some holes are the protective layer pealing up from chips. Way easier than copper! My wife helped me with the camera, it really is pretty amazing to get that close and be in focus. Overall size is .720 flat to flat or .828 point to point (inside to outside diameter)

  • I used a Sherline pulley by putting a blank arbor on the Taig and turning the end down to 5/8, then I reversed the headstock and put the Taig pulley on the arbor. Then I turned the Taig spindle down to take the Sherline pulley. That worked great. I got the longest Sherline type belt from the local sewing machine place, so I could mount the motor back farther to give room for some index plates I am mounting on the pulley.

  • Cylinders are brass tubing soldered to sheet brass bases. Crank supports are aluminum sheet or angle. Crankshafts, pistons and flywheels are turned from brass, steel or cast 63/47 solder. Connecting rods are piano wire with turned and press fitted crank ends.
  • his favorite
  • from a kit

  • I added

  • The sewing box is made of cherry, walnut, ebony, matapone, ivory, and ultrasuede for the pin cusions on the top of the leg turnings. The drawer knobs are turned ivory with ebony inserts
  • "Points to note. I have mounted on a thick aluminium plate. I am using a Proxxon Mill/Drill unit to drive the spindle. I works, but is under powered in this application and will cut out from overheating if used for long. "
  • , "the motor is from Peatol. It isn't quite as big as it looks as it has a fan and shroud - hopefully won't suffer the overheating problems of the Proxxon unit. Spec: ELVEN Italy (probably a badged Chinese import) type EB-63B4-B3, 0.18KW, 0.25HP 220Vac 50Hz, 1.67A, 1500 rpm."

  • "Here's a look at how my "machine shop in a box" is coming along. I used a surplus center treadmill motor, machined a pulley groove in the shaft, and used their or so dc controller. It runs smooth at 30 rpm, and will go to 3000 rpm. You cannot stop the chuck at 30 rpm, if the belt didn't slip, it would wreck your hand!, It plows steel off like crazy, rigid taps (and reverses thanks to a double pole single throw switch) . runs smooth and is kind of fun to run. I mounted motor and controller underneath. How about that, an underneath drive taig. Oh, and notice the 15000 rpm grinder that runs when you hook up the dangling belt.....for sharpening bits in the field.
  • made his version of the Crinz CD puck, out of plastic, which really should work better than aluminum.
  • is his "bearing journal for my first stirling engine."

  • says: I just completed a tread mill conversion on my mill and am just so enthused that I had to write you. I milled a 1/4" steel plate similar to the stock taig motor mount and I used a stock taig pulley and belt system. I had to bore the pulley to fit the motor but everything went real smooth. The mill now is load sensing and variable speed with power to spare, what a difference! It's like having a new mill.
  • some 7075 fortal aluminum. I am taking .015 passes with the spillage face mill and could go deeper with no trouble. I must also say the spillage face mill is well worth the investment, just a outstanding tool for the taig mill.
  • sent this picture of his Taig set up.
  • I made the back plate by:
    1. Turning down some stock all to diameter of the chuck.
    2. Faced the back and turned a shoulder drilled and tapped 3/4-16.
    3. Turned it around in the lathe and faced and made the register turned it about 50 thou over size.
    4. Screwed the back plate onto the taig lathe skimmed the register some where near the size for location.
    5. Then i warmed the chuck up in the oven turned the register so it was a nice tight fit.
    6. Let the chuck cool down i screwed grub screw backwards into the chuck to mark the back plate where the holes go drilled them and it all went back together it only has 1 thou run out with a 1/2 inch silver steel with a dti

  • "...of the modification to the Z axis on my Taig mill. I used a 1/2 - 10 LH Supernut to eliminate backlash. The reason is I use 5/16 & 3/8 end mills and do a lot of plunge cutting, this eliminates the chatter during the cut. As soon as I can take the machine out of service the next modification will be X & Y axis with 3/8 - 10 supernuts. I also have a Homier lathe converted to 3 axis cnc using a microproto controller and supercam.
  • Thought you might want to see the pictures. Will test it next week.
  • I got from you a couple years ago. It sports one of your index kits on it. I made the tailstock knobs, inspired by Tom Benedict, with the index kit. Tom e mailed an idea and I made a set. The motor mount is a little different also. The platform on the top keeps the angles below at a 90. I have enjoyed my lathe so much. It has been the best thing I have bought in years. "

  • has modified his lathe, here is his latest quick change toolpost. "The lathe is fully CNC capable. The Index plate and magnet are due for replacement as I'm changing to an optical sensor, the electronics are done, just need to re-work the plate. The chip wiper is a cut down cleaning brush, and I'm going to add one on the other side as well, they work very well at keeping the lead screw clean. The motor is 1/4 horse DC variable speed. "
  • Look at all the modifications he has made!
  • The large extension on the tailstock arm is nicknamed Ichiro. I haven't gotten around to painting the bench yet hence all the spots of filler.
  • The advantage is that they are very quick and easy to make. The blanks take about 20 minutes each all CNC, and then the remainder varies with the complexity of the finished holder. No need for special setups for parting or boring anymore. One of the other advantages is that each tool can be set the same depth on the Z axis, which greatly speeds up CNC runs. In the works now are a knurling setup and ball cutter.
  • built to keep the chips inside (used a couple of sheets of 5/8 plywood and a bit of solid wood). The computer is running turbocnc and although the screen is small it's perfect for monitoring progress. I use a different machine for my CAD work and gcode editing except for minor code adjustments.
  • There's a removable whiteboard of the left door, and the ever convenient calculator on the right. The black box on the lower left is the variable speed control. The controller at the top right is currently based on Dan Mauch's 2amp chopper kits (one 3 axis plus one 4th axis), I've added limit/home switch logic, tachometer (not implemented on the mill itself yet), flow and mist control, as well as spindle on/off. The case is oversize to allow future expansion to Gecko's if necessary.
  • . The original one is at the top, and it's fairly evident as to why I needed a replacement. Material is 6061 aluminum.
  • made this great quick change toolpost
  • : I just thought I would send you a couple of pictures and a breif discription of my new tool post. The last one I made you posted on your site, I would be honored if you would do the same for me again as it trully graces the mighty taig. You would be interested to know that most of it was produced on the taig lathe, with exception to the mill work. Here is a breif discription: The tool post main body and tool holders are made of 6061 aluminum, then they are powder coated with black chrome poly powder making the set oil, solvent, acid, and UV protected. The coating is impact proof to 165 LB per square in. The center 10/32 stud is stainless steel and so are the height adjustment studs on the holders. Both of the locking handles are oil hardened drill rod. The main body center within the accentric cut locking mech. is 4046 aluminum and it handles the pressure from locking the post to the common table. The post main body is 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 including the dove tails, the tool holders are 1" sq. x 1 1/2 long. The parting tool is made longer for more stability and a positive 3 degree down sweep for the locking hood insures no slip cut offs. The tommy bar makes it truly a mini big boy toy. The boring bar is drilled and bored to .501 with a 1/4" of meat around it. The tool holders will hold up to 3/8" cutters.The main body height is 1 7/8" insuring that special cutters ground by you can be easily put on center. As for its ability to handle a load, the original prototype produced five sets, exact copys to the thousanth. Thanks and dont let the chips get cold under your feet!!! Jim Shaulis

  • : "I had purchased a lathe over a month ago, and I finally came up with a project that I made exclusively with the Taig lathe. I made two single paddle Morse code keys. However I did of course purchase the screws and ball bearings. I have included some pictures. in case you are wondering the larger Morse code key is set on a large 2 pound bronze casting, that was intended to be a sheave. ( the smaller one is a prototype) I just wanted to say, I am very pleased with my Taig lathe. "

  • They are the best motor mounts I have ever seen!
  • you see on the cheap import lathes. Wanted to see how easy they are to fit to a Taig mill. They need a 20 tpi screw to work correctly which is why I thought of the Taig. Mod is straight forward. You need to turn 5/8" off the screw thread and also extend the small handle diameter by the same amount. In other words you need an extra 5/8" to stick thru. The mounting plate needs to be bored and threaded to fit the motor mount and you need a spacer to go from the small diameter up to 10mm for the inner sleeve to lock onto. X and Y are the same. Not done Z yet but this is harder as it needs to go on backwards so the numbers aren't upside down.
  • I had two old DC motors I found at a garage sale 7 or 8 years ago, you know the kind of stuff you just have to have. I think I paid each for them at the time, they had gear reduction on them 100:1. I ordered some small chain and gears from Electronic Gold Mine (a site I got off your web site). Built some bushings and motor mounts, a little electrical wiring from Radio Shack and presto two axis of the mill are now powered. Very cool, saves me from turning those little handles a couple of million times. :-)
  • for the axis drives on the mill is my Lab unit, very expensive unit. So I decided to build a new power supply just for the motors. where I could down load information on building a 0-24 volt DC power supply. Went to Radio Shack and bought all the parts and in one afternoon, built the supply unit. It works very well. Included some pictures. On a scale off 1-10 it was about a 5 to do. This rounds out the project and cost about .00 to build.

  • I have attached some photos of my set-up for machining the key mounting blocks and holes on an african blackwood flute, as well as a picture of the finished product.

  • "I'm a jeweller in Toronto and I do most of my work on a Taig lathe"

  • "The small rectangular piece was machined for a connector. The fixture was for PCB's"

  • did a great job mounting his lathe

  • made this turbine compressor diffuser mockup out of plexiglass to test his program

  • came up with a clever way of making an indexing pin for his lathe index plate
  • The pin

  • I very much enjoy reading your web site on the Taig lathe. I have owned a Taig lathe myself for a number of years and so did my father back in England (sadly passed away). For many years my father has made modifications and attachments for both his and my lathe and I would like to share these innovations with others if you think them worthy. The very first modification that he made was to the tail stock for drilling operations. As supplied, the short leaver is hard to use except for very small drilling jobs. I have noted that many others simply extend the length of the leaver. My fathers approach was to add a threaded knob and feed screw. This approach allows fine control in advancing the drill into the work but does not negate the original quick leaver action when the control knob is fully retracted, since it is the knob that is threaded not the brass bush attached to the leaver arm. In addition, drill snatch that can occur when enlarging holes, can be minimized by tightening the tailstock shaft clamping screw. This modification requires that only one hole be drilled in the tailstock leaver.
  • made this adapter to use the Taig collets on his Unimat lathe out of the 1221 spindle adapter
  • cuts clock wheels on his Taig Mill. : I have a Taig lathe, a Taig Mill and an extra head stock that I use for an indexing fixture with the mill. This way I can use the same work holders among the three devices. I make the dividing plate by using a 4" rotary table on my Taig mill. Then I firmly attach the dividing plate to the non-threaded end of the extra head stock with a bolt held against the ID of the arbor with an expanding mandrel. I have a spring loaded arm that holds a pin in the dividing plate at each of its positions. I mount the fly cutter (which is flat) in a holder made from a Taig blank arbor (and for pinions...) I have a fly cutter made from round stock whose holder fits in a 1/4 in collet.

  • for the Taig Mill: I started building my Taig CNC mill about 9 months ago. Some years ago I built the Camtronics 2A controller and converted my Sherline mill to CNC. Having recently become interested in gauge 1 live steam loco's, and finding the limited capacity of the Sherline frustrating, I decided to put together a Taig CNC mill. When I converted the Sherline I built a camtronics 2A controller, but after some discussion via email and the yahoo group I did not consider this would not be able to efficiently drive the Taig. Trying to think ahead, and allow for some upgrading in the future, (possibly to a larger machine) I considered using Gecko drives. Only wanting to build the controller once I decided, 1. incorporate a 4th axis 2. have easily selected current outputs for the range provided by the Gecko's 3. incorporate a spindle tacho. 4. provide a probe input. 5. provide relay control for spindle and coolant 6.incorporate power supply for the motors, logic, and cooling fans in the housing. 7.provide inputs for limit switches. Putting together the controller meant providing a power supply to provide the voltage for the motors, the logic for the Gecko's and power for a cooling fan. I decided on a large toriodal (1000VA) for the motor power and a smaller 12V for the logic and fan. A small PCB was drawn up using Eagle to provide a regulated 5V and 12V supply for the logic and fan supply. The main motor supply being rectified by a large bridge rectifier and capacitors. The tacho was built some time ago from a Camtronics kit. This was disassembled ready to build into the housing. The relay and limit switch PCB was drawn up using Eagle. This allows for 2 12V relays and provides the pull-ups for the limit switches. The switches themselves are yet to be installed. The PCB's were too large to be milled out on the Sherline as it was, so I made an extended bed to give me more movement in the Y axis. The controller was assembled and tested on a baseboard and the cabinet duly made
  • The extended bed can be seen in the photo
  • Having built the controller, converted the mill and tested it, I have used it since to produce parts for my gauge one Dee loco, which is now nearing completion. It has also beeen used for milling PCB's and engraving sing the Dremel. For normal milling I have mounted the Sherline motor and controller. A recent article in The Model Engineer pointed me to a material supplied for glueing wood veneers. This is a thin (nomial 0.003") thermoplastic glue trade name gluefilm. The material melts at about 100 deg C and forms a very strong bond between 2 surfaces. I purchased some to hold 1mm brass sheet to a baseboard whilst milling out the various panels for te superstructure of my loco. Photo shows the splashers and cab sides being milled. The brass sheet is glued to a piece of 1/8" aluminium which acts as a base.
  • , attached to the baseboard, being heated up to soften the glue to allow them to be removed.
  • with the baseplate in the rear. The toolpath can be clearly seen on the baseplate.

  • I recently acquired a box of parts at a swapmeet that were parts of a Taig mill and a Taig lathe. After looking at them carefully and looking at all the information on your site I started to put the two together to make frankenlathe. This is a work in progress as you can see from the attached images. I've machined the head stock to take 5-C collets because of their availability and versatility and fine detail work that I do with my projects. There really is part of a Taig lathe and mill in there. I think you can spot them! :) So far it seems to work very smoothly and accurately (check out Ed's very cool webpage: ) q: "Was it a problem to cut the bed like that, with the concrete filling? " Yes. I had a stock tungsten carbide flycutter that came with my Rong Fu mill/drill. I had a horrible time trying to make the first few passes as everyone in my household can attest to. Wondering what was wrong I examined the four cutters and found that they had almost no cutting edge at all. A few minutes in front of the green wheel and they had the proper cutting edges. The rest of the concrete and aluminum then went down like butter, leaving me powdered with concrete and an ear-to-ear grin.

  • "The tool holder was made from a 4" length of 3/4" Mild steel rod. The tool > slot was cut/filed so that the 1/4" tool was a snug fit, one side of the > slot being across the centre.line. A 6BA grub screw held the tool. The slot > was actually slanted so that the round headed tool was trailing whilst > cutting. My theory was that if the cutter dug in then it would be deflected > away from the job. Seemed to work OK. I also retightened all fixings after > about six passes, they tend to work loose with all that thumping! > > The brass workpiece was held on the cross slide by a homemade bracket which > uses the side slots on the cross slide. I was lucky with the packing - I had > an NBG cylinder blank which had been bored and sliced lengthwise. It was > exactly the right size. You need a bit of luck sometimes!"

  • , modified for extremely precise work.

  • for Ornamental Turning on the Taig Lathe, set up for OT drilling work. "Making the drills is an interesting exercise. I'm trying to copy Holtzapffel's various drill heads by milling them out of 12L14 and drill rod. "
  • , then mounting the Taig faceplate, to which is attached the compound slide and a Sherline 2.5" 3 jaw chuck, one gets a reasonably good eccentric chuck. When this is turned by a handcrank there is no need to worry about the lack of counterbalance and various circles can be turned using the flexshaft handpiece mounted on the crossslide in a V clamp on the milling vice. The attached photo shows the general layout. Can't help but be impressed by the adaptability of the Taig equipment. "
  • If one has days to spare for this (or a 'manservant' to do your sharpening for you!) it can give quite a nice edge. But having neither the time nor the patience, not to mention a handy 'manservant', to manually sharpen a host of cutting tools, I adapted the goniostat so that I could use the power flat bed grinder. Any waterstone can be used with the manual approach (the one in the photo is 4000 grit) and a micro-bevel can be applied by slightly altering the vertical angle of the goniostat. One last thing, the rectangular collar shown above the cutting tool in the power grinder photos has a 3/8" square hole broached in it. The collar's function is twofold; to extend the reach of the tool when it is being sharpened on the power grinder and to permit the sharpening of cutting tools with shanks up to 1/4" square. The steel I'm using for OT cutting tools is 1/8"x3/8" but the goniostat and the power grinder could readily be used to put a very sharp and accurate compound angle on the end of a 1/4" Taig metalworking cutting tool.
  • which, in turn, is mounted onto a brass bracket so that the cutting tool can be sharpened using a Veritas flat bed power grinder. Also shown in the photo is a gadget called an Accu-Level. This is also sold by Veritas (Lee Valley in Canada) and has a magnetic base so that it can be attached to the goniostat in different planes to set the necessary sharpening angles. The goniostat can readily be set at any compound angle and then the OT cutting tool can be sharpened at that angle. The power grinder comes with two platters and permits sharpening, with a micro-bevel, as fine as 9 microns. It gives a mirror finish on the compound angle.

  • "As I promised, here are four pictures of the setup as it is now. The project that demanded that I purchase a lathe was to create four spacers, two pair, to precisely fit the mounting hardware for two front GMA billet aluminum motorcycle brake calipers. I had no choice, so I finally broke down and bought the Taig lathe. It looked like the most sensible, flexible design out there. I have plans for many projects, and just having a lathe opens up many possible uses, so the machine tool is an investment. Of course it's a whole lotta fun too. In other words, a bargain! Each spacer was machined from 3/4" dia. aluminum bar stock. The center hole in each spacer is 3/8" diameter. The depth of the spacers was taken by caliper measurements at the average runoff point for each of the two calipers. Spacers on the left side of the bike are perfectly coplanar and flat, with a thickness of approximately 0.280 inches. The exact dimensions are duplicated on each side of the bike, so the calipers are near perfectly parallel to the axis of the caliper mounting points on the front fork of the bike. The lathe solved three problems for me: To get extremely accurate spacing, to obtain absolutely coplanar faces and to have identical thickness for each pair of mounting points. The lathe base is bolted to the workbench. To face the 3/4" diameter aluminum rod I used a rounded tip cutter. The parting bar is mounted behind the toolpost. The dial gauge is attached to a magnetic base and is in contact with the rear toolpost. Using the tailstock (not shown) I was able to drill a 3/8" diameter hole about 3 inches into the bar on center. I faced the end of the bar. I then drilled the end with a 1/8" dia. starter drill, then increased the drill size to 5/16" and finally drilled the 3/8" dia. hole. This way each spacer could be parted from the bar using the parting tool after moving the cutter to the exact position necessary to create the spacer. The dial gauge was set to 0 with the near-side cutting edge of the parting bar aligned with the face of the piece. Then the cross-slide was moved toward the headstock the required distance. The cross-slide was locked in place and the parting tool was used, with lots of cutting oil, to part the piece from the rod. This tool opens up new worlds for me. It requires some mental re-training to remember to think in terms of solving problems with the lathe. In other words, I'm so used to hacking out a solution with a hacksaw and file that I need to force myself to think creatively and use the lathe! The four spacers are now mounted on the bike, and I can sense the solidity of the assembly. It is a perfect illustration of how accurate machining can make parts fit together solidly, as opposed to having only a few points of contact. Each face is flush with the caliper and the mounting boss. It is much safer than using a hacksaw to cut the spacers.
  • of the new front wheel
  • on the left side of the bike

  • , "some pictures of the Zero Backlash setup. The weight system is compact, does not take away XYor Z axis travel and seems to be very easy to keep "in rig." It can also be easily removed from the mill without so much as a scratch. The pulley supports either clip in place or make use of existing holes. "

  • " I have been using a simple and cheap method which is easy to build at home. It is an GE trick from way back. I uploaded some photos of the gadget and will delete them in a week for the sake of saving valuable space. (Richard's collection). A Radioshack motor( generator, they are linear)) about 2 bucks, along with a 5K pot and a short plastic tube to house the units is used for the the tach. A wheel and an "O" ring is made to fit the motor shaft. A digital meter is used on the 2 volt scale to read the RPM directly. The pot outside leads are across the generator winding, the center and one pot end supply the meter. My lathe motor is a 1/4 HP wash machine type and runs at a speed of 1725 according to the nameplate. The Taig motor pulley and the lathe pulley are matched size wise. The tach wheel is held against the largest diameter of the motor pulley and the pot is adjusted to a voltage reading of 1.725 volts. Now the set up is calibrated as RPM. Move the pickup pulley to the large diameter of the lathe pulley and the reading in RPM can be read directly on the DVM at any of the six speed ranges. My setup reads:5300, 3350, 2200, 1400, 980,and 600RPM depending on the groove settings containing the drive belt. I use the same unit on the 7x12 lathe using the "stop" of the 45 tooth gear on the left end of the lathe as the calibrating source when scanned with a flourescent lamp. (7200/45) equals 160 Rpm. A different DVD voltage scale may be used. Works fine and the cost is low if you own a meter.
  • "I have made some additions as you can see. The fine feed lead -screw is based on Tony Jeffree's design, and the contraption at the far-left of the screw is a microwave-oven turn-table motor, this provides a very fine feed. ( Those motors have a remarkable amount of torque). "
  • powered by an ML Midge designed by Marl Lubbock. A real thrill to see flying. By the way, I'm on my 5th. Midge, it is very easy to build on that little lathe.

  • "I added the 40 and 50 hole circles like Jose describes using a saw blade and piano wire. I'm making an end cap for the MiniTinker tool and cutter grinder that I just completed"

  • made these Corian trivets on his Taig CNC mill "I have the tailstock extension and also the Y extension installed. They are 6" diameter 1/2 inch thick. I am using Turbocnc and a 486 laptop, xylotex driver and 24v ps. The steppers are 187oz-in that I got for ea. I can send you some gcode if you like. I make the cuts in two passes because I have stalled the spindle a couple of times. Sometimes I could cut the full .25 and then not. I have the speed set to 22.5ipm rapid to keep y from stalling. They are cut with a 3/16 endmill."

  • "For the cross slide mount I used 1" round 6061 (all I had that was big enough). I first turned the cut edges on the lathe, then mounted it in the milling attachment. I notched the bottom of the mount to allow 1/4" overhang of the side and back of the carriage. Then I used my drill press and made the mount hole for the indicator and then the hold down for the carriage. I tapped the carriage for a 10/32 screw to allow the removal of the mount when necessary. For the contact pin, I found a 4/40 screw I salvaged from dismantling hard drives and PC's and filed two edges to make a "t-nut". Then I filed a brass pin and drilled and tapped it 4/40. The pin can be easily moved/removed as it's only finger tight. "
  • , "For the index plate I used 1/2" square stock and chamfered the edges after I drilled the mounting holes per your drawing. I turn the brass locking pin out of some stock I had and added some rings for gripping. I don't think I'll need the locking screw for the pin at this point. "
  • showing the Taig and drill press as a compact workshop.
  • on his older model Taig lathe. "You asked what I was making with the lathe. I have just finished most of my tools and am starting on the motor parts. I have included one picture. I want to make small motors for my RC aircraft. "

  • made this hot air engine with his Taig
  • made "an adapter to allow the use of CD ROM based motors to drive ducted fans to power R/C planes. It worked great the first time and allowed me to up the power to the fan almost double. You should hear it spin at 42,500 RPMs. I turned the adapter out of 7075 and the shaft out of O-1 Drill rod. (hard stuff) "
  • it is made from mild steel ,brass, and air craft grade aluminium (rescued from my companies scrap bin) to make it I first had to make a milling setup from a couple of bits of flat bar welded together bolted to the cross slide of my old 10" atlas to which i attatched a stripped down and rebuilt chinese compound vise. You would have thought that aluminium is easy to mill but as i found out it is a real bugger, the slide moves very easy on brass gibs and is a very handy addition to my lathe
  • , "finally "finished" my first set of wheel chocks. I powder coated these in my garage...and am pretty pleased with the results."

  • to be a collet chuck on his Unimat Lathe: After squaring up, drilling 10.8 mm hole and tapping 12X1 threads I turned a 9/32" rod straight out.
  • keeping the back of the collet adapter tight against the back plate.
  • for the 10-32 screws used to hold the adapter to the back plate. Then the adapter was removed and the rod machined off the back plate along with more of the back plate to get it thinner. More still could be taken off. So this is the method I designed. With the SL it is slow going. But it worked.
  • a Taig blank arbor to hold an ER collet chuck "lately there were several discussions about ER collets on the taig. i had the same problem with the sherline and solved it this way: bought straight shank ER closers (ER20 and ER32) - 20 mm dia. shanks held them in a 4 jaw independent chuck, worked great and indicated tir was less then 0.01 mm i was soon tired from swapping and re-indicating the closers so i bored taig blank arbors (ruined 3 by overboring about 0.005mm ...) for a tight fit of the shanks and used loctite. takes some space but works very well. "

  • to work on rings and ring waxes, here is a milgrained ring done on the Taig

  • adapted the new ER spindle to his MaxNc mill."The ER16 spindle assembly only has one 10-32 hole on the side. Simply drill another hole opposite of that one and tap it to 10-32 and it bolts right into the MaxNC.

  • , and a box I built for manual control of the stepper motors. The mill is setup next to two big windows with beautiful views of the Berkshire mountains."
  • It follows indoors and outdoors and has miles of range (uses a motorcycle battery). The cutouts on all of the boxes with circuitry were made using the mill, as were the housings for various parts. The three round platforms and motor mounts were in a kit from Zagros Robotics. The microprocesser is a 68HC12 based development board from Axiom Manufacturing and is housed in the big black box on the middle level. The connections from the microprocesser to the peripheral devices is via RJ45 jacks and ethernet cable. The cutouts for the jacks, cables, LEDS, ultrasound and infrared transducers were all done on the mill using CNC, so they are all just the right size, all perfectly spaced.
  • I thought you might be interested in some photos of my completed western river steamboat engine. The valves have been left off, awaiting data from this summers excavations. The TAIG mill performed flawlessly. Every one of the metal parts was machined with the mill and BobCAD. The Flywheels are each composed of 16 identical overlapping pieces that are bolted together. I had some concern about wether they would be machined accurately enough to overlap properly but, they fit perfectly! This model will be be displayed at the new History Museum in Oklahoma City and a second identical model will be built for a museum in the town of Fort Towsend, Oklahoma - near the sight where the original vessel ran onto a snag and sank. With all the mill routines already created, it should be no problem to crank out a second model. Thanks for all your help and I'll let you know when we have our website about the wreck up and running. (Check out and also linked from the main Taig page)

  • I had snagged a longer extrusion a long time ago from Taig (they don't have any more, I don't have any can mill your own...sorry) and he made the gib and screws, etc. "After some dillying and dallying, my new longer Taig lathe crosslide table is now operational! With any luck, this evening will provide the first opportunity to put the new crosslide to use in earnest. In the attached photos, you'll see that I found a local outfit to hard anodise the table for me. The crosslide operates very smoothly, and I'm certainly happy with the looks. Machining the longer gib stock turned out to be the biggest challenge of the project. However, with a shopmade workholder for the brass stock, I managed to machine eveything on the Taig lathe with the standard length crosslide."
  • "For the anodizing, I found a company in Port Moody that will do ten pieces for a minimum. Unfortunately, I didn't know they would do ten items for the same minimum price. At that time, it didn't seem worth it to drive all the way home and back again to pick up another nine items for anodizing -- but luckily I did bring a few other odd pieces along. And now I know for the future."

  • for his lathe out of two digital calipers: "Thanks to your suggestion I found the digital caliper adaption on

  • : "I thought I'd send you a picture of an improvement I brought to my little treasure. As you see I transformed a digital caliper into a digital readout. I'm very proud of it since it makes working on the lathe to be very enjoyable. I absolutely love it!!"

  • : "I found some great knurled anodized aluminum knobs for my tail stock. They are cabinet knobs from the Ikea (furniture) store. The shape caught my eye. All I had to do was drill them out to tap to 10-32 and a couple of 1 1/2 inch screws. I could have cut them down, but they seem easier to use as they are."
  • "Thanks to the Taig Lathe. This was once a manual telescope now it's a motorized "Goto" scope.
  • But the worm gear was purchased and the worm itself was from a worm driveshaft that I turned down to the appropriate shaft size (leaving worm intact).

  • beavering away on a run of part modifications.
  • to act as a taper turning top slide for the Taig. "So far it's working really well. Move the tool holder to the end cut off the leadscrew and dovetail section and just clamp it on. I use my Taig mostly to make tools and accessaries for my Boley watchmaking lathe, and also just for fun."
  • , it really was temporary but has stayed. The motor is mounted with two hinges and hangs below the lathe in a box, there is a support in the box so that belt tension isn't too high, you just lift the motor to change pulleys, works well.

  • "We milled it flat, then we used a tool that shapes it like it is. We also did some belt buckles with the taig mill also."

  • "I finally have milled what I would call a legitimate part off of the mill. Of course it is only one side. The next step is to flip mill one in wax and then in metal. I chose it to see how the mill would handle a somewhat complex surface."
  • It still needs some finicky details. I am planning a blower or vac system of some sort. Not completely sure yet which one or both. Next big step is to finally set up the 4th then tha vac/blower.

  • made some knives with his Taig mill and lathe. "I have really gotten into using the equipment you got for me and am having a great time making knives. Attached are some pics of knives I made using the equipment. Everything you fixed me up with has worked wonderfully. I use the lathe to turn and tap the end of the rat tail tang handle bolsters, use the mill to make the hilts, taper and rough cut the wood slab handle on the full tang knives using a router bit. I also turn custom handle pins on the lathe."

  • (notice the alternator pulley as well)
  • "Here's the arbor. Nothing special, but it's the first real tool I've made. There's something fantastic about making something that before now I would have had to buy if I wanted one. "
  • "The 1/2 nut on the leadscrew is quite interesting- it actually is two 1/2 nuts- when disengaged the right side is above the threaded rod and the left side drops below. This nut is all one piece pivoted on the large handle."

  • "I soon discovered that the 1/4-20 bolt used to tighten the vice had some very frustrating problems. It marked the surface of the moveable jaw which in turn encouraged the end to wander which in turn caused the bolt to bend thus rendering vice difficult to operate and to securely tighten. After looking over the vise I stuck upon the idea to improve it. I replaced the 1/4-20 bolt with a piece of 3/8-24 rod - the larger the better was the thought and I had some on hand. The moveable jaw was drilled and tapped 3/8-24. To prevent the problem of the end wandering on the moveable jaw I provided a spot for the screw to seat against, in this case I used an 82degree counter sink to provide that spot. No measurements where taken and a suitably sized spot against which the screw seats was simply guided by eye. The end of the threaded rod was suitably pointed and polished to match the spot and provide a nice fit. The other end of the screw was drlled and threaded 10-32 for a short socket head cap screw which was secured with Loctite."
  • that I thought other might find helpful. I have been using a A2Z QCTP for some time. I have always like this tool post but from time to time get frustrated with it not being "secure" enough. It is sturdy and secure enough for most work but I found I was unable to tighten the secruing bold enough to keep it from twisting. As I wanted to do some knurling I had to find some way of keeping the tool post from twisting even when using a clamp or scissor type knurling tool. I ran across a reference to a modification someone else had made (I can't find that reference now) and a similar modification they had made. That person had commented that amongst various fixes the one that he had found most beneficial was the use of a larger through bolt to secure the QCTP. He used an 8mm socket head cap screw and made a modfied base mount from brass (only material he had on hand of sufficient size) and stated this cured his problem of the tool post twisting as the larger bolt was better able to secure the QCTP. I made a similar base mount out of 12L14 and used a 5/16" - 18 socket head cap screw and am very pleased with the mod. I can now mount the base cross ways across the two slots on the cross slide or in one slot as original. I can now mount the QCTP in such a way that I work a piece 1-1/2" diameter where as before I could not. I replaced the original aluminum mount with a piece of 12L14 1.5" diameter and starting at 1/2" thick faced each end until I reached my design thickness of .470" . I made my base mount .470" thick so that I could use a 5/16"-18 x 2-3/4 cap screw adding a full 1/4" extra thread in the base mount over the original 2-1/2" screw. The hole for the 10-32 mounting screws are on a 1" center to match the slot to slot distance of the cross slide and appropriately counter bored for the 10-32 socket head cap screws; the counter bores are .240" deep to allow the use of the original A2Z QCTP provided mounting screw. The center was drilled and tapped 5/16"-18. The mount was cleaned and blued with hardware store gun bluing.
  • made a speed reduction pulley for his Taig mill. "Somebody at the Taigtools usergroup asked how to put a boring head on a Taig mill without getting the shakes. I had just addressed the same problem so I posted some pix (attached). Rich Crook suggested that you might be interested. as well. My solution achieves about a 4:1 speed reduction and eliminates the shakes for holes as least as large as 2.16 inches. It's simple to make, and installing and tensioning only takes a minute. This was a 'quick and dirty' exercise for me; I wanted to be sure it worked before investing major time in it. There are certainly improvements that can be made."

  • , in his tidy shop.

  • I made for my father in law on the taig lathe, the wood is bocote made in three equal parts joined with brass joiners, all the brass is Lee Valley supply.
  • that I made for a puzzlebox maker out of Oklahoma, tapered round, and some pens and pencils all made on the Taig lathe. 
  • " showing a 'mod/hack' that I did to drill brass rod with the 'cross-slide', as opposed to the 'tailstock', it's for a puzzle I'm making that has 30 brass dowels with magnets at each current tailstock has kinda' been through the ringer and this set-up makes things easier and more accurate as well ;) BTW - Pic also shows your 'index plate' that I finally got around to putting on :)"

  • : "Hey, I thought I'd send you a few pictures of my first saw using those split nuts and bolts made on the Taig. Thought you might like to see what this guy with all of the questions makes. :) I've also written an article about doing the etching you see on that saw. It should be coming out sometime soon on "

  • says "Here's a few pics of what I put together to protect the Z-axis leadscrew from chips. I removed the motor and disassembled the head stock, then used a drill press to make two holes in the Z-axis main body. I then re-assembled the head stock and took an old piece of FR-4 board from my PCB shop and made a retainer bar with holes large enough to accept the two 10-32 hex screws. Then I took a piece of thin rubber and cut two holes in it and made a drape to fit the retainer bar+screws. I then assembled the set like so: (bolt -> retainer bar -> rubber drape -> main body) and bolted the new assembly onto the Z-axis main body. The travel on the Z-axis seems to be short enough that it won't pick up sticky oil-coated swarf from where it collects in the existing Y-axis ways covers, so I'm fairly pleased with the way it turned out. The whole process only took me a little over an hour, so it seems like a worthwhile mod. It wouldn't have taken me quite so long, but I've never taken the main body off the mill so I was a little nervous that I was going to break things. Everything goes faster the second time"

  • says "I have just finished to set the lathe up. With your index plate, it is not only more useful but looks very classy!"

  • of my first piece of jewelry using a milled component.......I stopped after the rough tool path because I liked the look.... As I watched it mill I got the idea of a woman emerging from a pool of high tech primordial ooze (molten gold in this case). It is set in a textured silver setting with a pin back. I'm really limited in what I can do since I'm totally new to 3d modeling, CNC, machining, etc, but I'm looking forward to what I'll be able to do by adding a whole new element to my artwork."
  • that I created for our annual Blueberry Art Festival Juried Art Show. Because I serve on the gallery committee, the piece wasn't eligible for the juror-selected prizes but it sold minutes after the show opened to a nationally-known artist. Again, I am playing with a digitized and then milled image of my wife like the other piece.
  • I domed two brass gears and connected them with a silver tube. They didn't mesh perfectly because of distortion from doming but all in all, given I had little time to crank them out because of the deadline, I like the result. It is a fun piece....
  • : "Here's a picture of a spindle depth stop I made. It's pretty trivial but really useful. "
  • to hold the lathe headstock for axial and radial indexed drilling and milling. Also a kind of poor man's free-wheeling rotary table.
  • I used my Jeffree Mark I dividing head in the following kind of bizarre configuration.
  • "Here are some pics of the "Rob Special" dampers. They are 2.8" in dia made of 3/4" UHDPE with 1/8" cap and have 12 .5" steel ballbearings. The just have a 1/4" hole through the center and press on the motorshafts. The holes for the bearings are .575". The Dampers also work great as handles when the diver board is off. I got the idea from . I made it larger to fit more pendulum weight and I new I was going to use ball bearings which would be lighter again, so I went with a larger radius and more of them. I also wanted a lighter base material that could absorb a bit more vibrations, so I went with UHDPE from McMaster Carr. I also didn't want to bother with the set screw so I went with a pressure fit (I added a piece of paper to make it real tight). I believe resonance increases after prolonged overheating of the xylotex board. My stalling was getting worse and worse over time. I found my board was getting very hot, so I had previously replaced the wimpy 60mm fan with a monstrous 80mm that is 5 times the amperage and pushes 10 times the air. But I believe the damage has been done.

  • of the "Lane" variable speed motor for the Taig. "I got the motor/controller unit installed on my lathe. I have to say I was skeptical, due to the fact that the motor mounting was folded sheet metal screwed to the controller, which was a standard tread mill motor controller. The adjustments are just two SHCS and a big spring on the back end of the motor to the motor mount. But after I got it bolted in and adjusted, I must say I am fairly impressed. Lots of torque, good speed range, and in a compact package. The price was a bit steep, 0.00, and the components are not worth that much. I would say that the unit works well but it is a bit too expensive.

  • of the new Taig lathe crosslide screw adapted to an older lathe. As it was an older slide he had to machine out the slide as shown
  • "

  • , "I LOVE MY MACHINE! I got my mill today, and spent an extra hour or two then what would normally take someone to set it up. I wanted it to be perfect, I set everything up, from the spindle alignment to the table to everything. My area looks a little bear but I will soon have that top bench covered in sheet metal with a drainage system for my coolant system, I have to make. I feel like a little kid on Christmas!
  • , I really didn't know how well it would cut or anything. I set everything up and using some spare metal I just made some passes, (not deep at all) and a pocket. It cuts like butter with a mirror finish and is smooth as can be, I'm amazed, I know this machine is going to be perfect!

  • made a longer headstock mounting plate for his Taig CNC mill, cutting the dovetail
  • Chuck a 1 flute 90 deg countersink in the lathe chuck on lowest speed (130 rpm I think) and just hand debur the holes. Puts a nice little chamfer on all them and is quick too."
  • and I thought they turned out pretty nice. I have a local anodizer so I might have them done in purple. "

  • sends pics of his New Employee, Just playing around with the "toys"

  • of 1925 to 1935 Pullman manufactured made on his Taig CNC mill.
  • : My pulley/spindle setup looks lot like sherline timing pulley setup now. I cut the mounting plate out of g-10 (3/16" thick) Each drive pulley was about 12 each.(had to bore it to 5/16" ID due to my motor shaft) And belt is 3 bucks. SDP-SI and mcmaster is my friend. :) Brief synopsis on the modification:
    I think this is excellent high rpm setup. (for engraving and routing using smaller bits) I've thought about using hobby grade brushless motor setup, but it just adds lot of complexities and cost. This is simple and cheap. Only hassle is brush life of 300 hours. Since this motor only draw 3amps, I used simple lamp cord and switch with it. all pulleys are available from . Most of the pulleys are also available also from
    Motor: Dayton 2m139 Also, 2m145 could be used if more power needed (3/8" shaft though instead of 5/16). You can add speed control as well. Service rating is 1, so usable for continous duty, 10k rpm.
    Motor mounting plate: made mine using 3/16" g-10, aluminum is also a possibility.
    Bearings: Stock bearing should be good for 15k rpm. you can also buy upgrade bearings rated for higher RPM. Mcmaster has one rated to 19k (SKF 6203-2Z/C3GJN) 40mm OD, 17mm ID, 12mm width. Bocabearings has ceramic hybrid bearings to 25k, but very expensive. You have to use press to get the bearing on/off. I've notice preload makes a hugh difference in friction, so adjustment of preload is critical.
  • : I made mine from 40tooth MXL pulley stock. Easier way is to buy 60tooth none flanged aluminum pulley and bore it out to .625. you can also use flanged pulley here. (I prefer flanged on one side, none flanged on the other, but you could use flanged on both but setup is more critical) flanged
    Drive pulley: use 5/16" shaft, you can buy 36 to 130 tooth plastic with insert pulley with 5/16" bore. I modified aluminum pulleys for smaller size. Some 20-22tooth aluminum pulleys can be used if hub is big enough. if you want to run 2m145 with 3/8 shaft, I would recommend running flanged pulley on the spindle, and aluminum pulleys on the motor. You can run 40-120 aluminum pulleys on this setup. some 22tooth aluminum pulleys may be usable if they have big hub. Belt: I run 140tooth MXL, but probably need bigger ones for bigger pulleys.
  • sent "pictures of four steam engines I made exclusively with the Taig lathe with the milling attachment. On the left it is a simple oscillating engine that I made with no plan. It works on some 12 psi. In the middle it is the rv1 from Liney machine. I made another one of these that I gave it to my father. This was my first engine and very first project. One works on a little more than 10psi and the other on 15psi. In the front is a rv1 scaled by 1/2. On the right is the The Thimble, again from Liney. It works with just a couple of psi, just blowing in it runs it like crazy."
  • sent pictures of his motor setup: "In case you'd like to see, here's my setup so far. I went with a DC motor from the start, found this like new Dayton motor off of Ebay and it works great. I found a small controller at Surplus Center, which was partially enclosed, so I finished, painted, and mounted over the motor. I used 2 laminate boards, one large for the whole lathe, and a small board for the motor. I attached the motor with 4 machine screws from below to the small board, and mounted 2 wooden siderails (dark brown) along which the small board slides. So I tensioned the belt with those 2 wooden wedges in front. Works pretty good. I just calibrated the motor in 10 volt increments with markings on the case around that big knob on top from 0-90 V"

  • to fit a metal "keyhole" type piston head from a circa 1968 BSA Super Meteor Mark 3. The original piston seal would have been leather. This was my first use of the lathe and my first use of any lathe! First set up a 2 inch length of 30mm diameter PTFE rod in the 4 jaw chuck. Needs some practice to do this! turned down to 26mm. Used tool to make a 1mm deep recess 18mm in diameter in the front of the seal. Then used the tailstock and Jacobs chuck to drill a 10mm hole in centre. Finally used parting tool to arrive at 5mm thick seal. Fits and works perfectly. The lathe is ideal for this work."
  • mounted a Penn State variable speed motor and drive on his Taig lathe. "The motor is fairly heavy, so I made a solid mount for it out of some Al I beam and 1/2" plate. I milled the I beam and the plate on a small import mill. The mounting box brings it up to working height, and provides space for a drawer for bits and pieces. This is all of melamine faced chipboard (discarded shelving), held together with wood screws. If it shows any sign of shaking apart I'll drill holes for wooden dowels and glue them in, but because all the faces are square and pull up tight I doubt that will be necessary. The motor runs very smoothly. I had to bore the pulley out, loosing the smallest diameter. By loosening two cap screws one can adjust the belt tension - I find this gives less vibration than a spring loading."

  • for his first project on his new Taig lathe
  • made this excellent 4th axis from a Taig headstock
  • of antibacklash worm gear.
  • fixed his patio umbrella 
  • " in the middle where the lifting ribs were attached. I milled the broken rib ends square and made inserts to fit inside the extruded alum ribs. Then I secured them with screws. The lifting ribs could then be remounted to the new alum rib inserts."
  • " where it went into the patio table. I milled the column off square and then turned an alum insert to fit up inside the original column and down into the base support tube. I then constructed a small spring driven push button in the insert to allow the umbrella to be locked in a specific position within the column. The new column insert was attached to the original column with a bolt and lock nut hidden under an existing plastic shroud."
  • .
  • sent in his Bosch Router Spindle conversion for the Taig Mill. Off comes the old spindle
  • .
  •  sent in these pictures of his watch case "I would like to tell you as well I finshed my first watch case the last weekend. I am very happy with that. I think there is a lot of things I could make better and I will but that will be on the second case I will began to work on soon."
  • drilling a "prop saver for my little rc airplane"
  • , it involved mostly using my taig lathe but also my sherline 5400 mill to drill and tap the holes.
    soon this will be on my GWS slow stick."

  • , "some pictures of the lathe recently supplied by yourself via my friend in Florida. We have fitted a manual leadscrew as I can't get on with the rack and pinion. The production version utilizes the redundant carriage handwheel at the right hand end. There is no drilling or damage to the bed.  We are proposing to market the kit, is there any interest from your side of the world? Cost would be be about . ex works.  I don't have a web site but I would be happy to be contacted via email:"  

  • "By the way, your instructions for the radius turner were great; I was able to get the first part I needed from it made up fairly easily.  I've attached two photos showing the raw part and the finished assembly.  It's a 1/35 scale tail duct for an MD520N helicopter, which doesn't have a conventional tail rotor but instead blows air through its tailboom and out a perpendicular duct at the end of the boom.  The main part is turned polyurethane resin and the brass is photoetched and bent into assemblies to fit the main part.  No way I could have made this part without using the lathe!"
  • .  After failing to find any suitable aluminum locally, I had to get it online.  I used your affiliate link with Online Metals, so you should get a royalty from the sale.  I made the block as simply as I could; the brass pin fits tightly enough that I don't think it needs a clamp.  The diameter of my pin (3/16") was just on the edge of being too big: three holes stacked together leaves very little metal between them.  If I ever make another one I'll use a 5/32" pin and holes.  And have you noticed the T-slots on the top of the headstock are too narrow for most 10-32 screws?  I had to shave down the threads on my 10-32 screws before they would fit the slots.

  • "I know this has been done before, but check out my Taig column brace. I'm tired of adjusting the column before and after I use anything with much side force, like a boring head, fly cutter, or shell mill. I had an end mill get 'sucked' into a part and before it broke it knocked  the column over went for China into the part and finally threw it across the room. All I did was try to walk across the hall to use the bathroom and boom. Moral: nothing fails when your hand is over E-stop."
  • sent some pics of his lathe setup, "The motor setup is the Penn Industries unit with controller.  I have attached one more picture of my setup.  I had always wanted a Unimat lathe for the past 40 years, but never could afford one.  Started looking on eBay last January and saw the very high prices for used units, so I ended up with the Taig.  I made a storage box similar to the Unimat from a surplus high quality cabinet drawer."
  • - not perfect, but very usable.  I need to shave off about 3/1000" from one side in order to minimize the run-out as I rotate the block.  I have attached some pictures of the unit and my facing setup.  I went back and used a different tool for the facing.  Was using the standard Taig cutoff tool - about 1/8" wide at the tool end.  Used a HF tool that had about 1/4" wide end.  You can see the bigger tool in the pictures.
    I am getting the hang of making very small incremental advances for each cutting.  I need to look at getting a better way to make small movements on the cross-slide that attaches the tool post.  Using the cutting tool in the tool post might be better than using the Taig fly cutter.  I think that I can work on bigger pieces of flat stock, plus having the cutting tool stationary might be better as opposed to having it rotate on the head stock.  You would have a much better idea on this.
    This has sure been a good training exercise for me.  I still need to get better at using the Taig boring bar.  It is really too big to start with small holes and I had trouble with cutting off the first part of the hole while trying to cut off deeper into the hole.   I picked up a blank stock and will try to make one that can start with a 1/4" OD hole.  BTW - I have some countersink deburring tools coming - using drill bits just does not work too good :-).
    I think I may go pick up another block of brass and do this again.  The next one should come out much better.  I have a precision vise coming next week and that should do it for tools.  Now I can get back to making parts for my RC helicopters.
  • here's a cross in silver and abalone done with the Taig CNC mill
  • " I ran yesterday.  I have tons of designs for fretmarker inlays.  One is little silhouettes of various pistols and rifles.  I did a test run of an Uzi to see what it would look like in real life.  It's less than a half inch tall.   My builder friend is going to make an M1 Carbine theme guitar I'm designing an inlay for right now, so guns are kind of a theme now."
  • of a knurling tool made on the Taig lathe and mill:  "I was inspired to make a set of knurling tools based on a picture I saw of an old German knurling tool.  The design and construction was heavily influenced by the material and tools that I had on hand.  As can be seen in the photos I was experimenting with the exact design and dimensions as I made it.  It is somewhat oversized for the taig but I intend to use it someday on a larger lathe with the addition of a second pivot assembly.
    Speaking of the pivot assembly, although it looks like brass in the photos, it is made of some bronze I happened to have.  The 1/4" bar for the taig tool holder is attached off center to help raise the tightening knob as high as possible to keep fingers well clear when knurling close to the chuck.
    I had planned to hold the knurl pivots in place via set screws; but two sets of knurls that I ordered had shoulders on them that increased their width to the point that there wasn't enough room for set screws, so I had to use a different retaining mechanism made from "hacksaw blades" from the dollar store.  This means that more clearance is required on one side when knurling but this really doesn't matter since the arms can be flipped to put the retaining mechanism on either side.
    I'm pleased with the results.  The first thing I knurled is the knob for the tool itself.
     If I were making another one for the taig only, I would make the arms shorter.  When I try to knurl a long test piece, a lot of torque is put on the tool holder.  It is difficult to get it secured well enough that it doesn't accidentally pivot when advancing the knurler along the knurlee.  Shorter arms would probably help reduce the torque.  I bought the springs at the local hardware store.  They make it slightly more convenient to use but are not necessary.
    This is only the second item of any complexity at all that I have machined myself so please be understanding when viewing the pictures.  This was very much a learning experience for me."
  • of the quick change tool post by E. Paul Alciatore III as published in the Feburary/March 2010 Machinist's Workshop magazine.  I modified his design to hold 1/4" tools and to fit the taig.  Instead of using steel for the tool holders, I substituted aluminum.  I figured if it was strong enough for the original tool holder it would be fine for this one.  As long as I was using aluminum I thought it would be fun to try anodizing, hence the red color.
    I made the tool post out of 3/4" drill rod.  I also used a piece of the drill rod to  make a D-reamer to size the hole in the holders.  On the bottom of the post I milled flats to match a 5/8" square hole in the mounting plate.  The mounting plate was made of 1/4" steel.  Mounting the post to the plate made it easy to mill the large flat on the post at 45 degrees.  The large flat is 5/8" from the other side. The combination of mounting plate and post can be mounted on either the left or right side of the taig cross slide and, because of the square hole, it can oriented to cut on the left or right.  The base of the post does not come all the way through.  When tightened down with the two bolts, believe me, this post is going nowhere!  Of course, by using only the bolt through the post it can be used at any angle.
    The tool holders are 1 3/4" on a side and 1 1/16" thick.  When cutting the corner off the tool holder the side with the fixed bolts needs to be flush with the D-post.  The other side is milled 2-3 thousands deeper to allow tightening.  I'm ashamed of the knobs, but at .50 for 10, they were too cheap to pass up and are easily strong enough.
    Mr Alciatore came up with a great design!  It is easy and cheap to make.  It took me about 1 day to make the first tool holder, but less than two days to make the next 9. It is a lot easier to do them in batches.
  • "I reversed the soft jaws and milled a slot  about 200 mil deep  to clear the head and allow some room for re-truing the end of the jaws....actually will hold up to a 1/2" bolt. "
  • , "Over the years I occasionally have seen the need for some sort of spindle lock.  I have seen several ideas but they were far more complicated than I needed.  Cutting threads with a Taig die holder in the tailstock is one of those times, especially if you are threading a hard alloy.  I don't seem to have quite enough hands to hold the pulley (or spindle wrench), put some positive pressure on the work and turn the die holder with a tommy bar. So, I took a length of 1/2" square aluminum rod and drilled some mounting holes for the headstock.  I centered a cross hole and tapped it for 10-32.  I drilled a hole in one of my steel spindle wrenches.  It ain't pretty but it is very functional.  Easy to mount, remove and store.
  • I enjoy reading tips and ideas from a variety of forums and web sites.  I have learned there are many, many tricks of the trade and many different ways to do things.  David Lemereis' YouTube called “Easy Centering the 4 Jaw Chuck” presents an interesting and simple approach to centering stock in a 4 jaw chuck.  It may be common to many but it caught my eye.  He uses a toolpost mounted dial indicator and two chuck keys to center a piece of stock, square or round, in the 4 jaw chuck quickly and easily. I only needed a way to mount my dial indicator in a Taig toolpost.  It may be obvious to experienced machinists.  For the beginner or tinkerers like me, here's how I did it. I cut off a 2 1/2” length of 1/2” square 6061 aluminum bar.  I faced both ends and milled a slot along one edge  1” long to fit the toolpost slot.  Mounting the piece in a toolpost on the cross slide of the lathe, I drilled a 3/8” hole to match the shaft of my dial indicator (Center-drill; drill with a 3/16” bit; drill with  a 23/64” bit; and finish with a 3/32” chucking reamer).  Drill the clamping screw hole with a No. 20 bit.  Tap 10-32.
    Find the center of the end of the DI mount.  Use a slitting saw to cut a narrow slot into the 3/8” hole you drilled.  Open one side of the 10-32 threaded hole with a 3/16” bit.  I used a single edge razor blade in the slot to act as a drill stop.  A 1/2” length 10-32 socket head bolt finishes the part..
    None of the measurements I used are critical.  I made it as short as I dared (2 1/2”) to clear the chuck jaws with small pieces.  The shaft of my dial indicator is a convenient 3/8” in diameter.   Measure yours.  You can cut the slot with a razor saw or piercing saw, or even a hacksaw if you like.  I have learned that laying out and marking up your measurements with a scriber or even a felt tip pen saves time, makes your work more accurate and saves on raw stock.  I only made this one three times.  I am getting better.

  • , "Shroud is mostly done, mounted on a new cart. Polycarbonate in the front, LDPE on the sides, some temporary cardboard elsewhere. I still have some details to finish: lights, monitor mount, etc."
  • has a lovely modified Taig lathe in Belgium. 

  • Top of bearing for the table.
  • , 95 pound magnet used to attach to base.  Duct tape has been replaced by a neater job with electrical tape.  Working on a way to index angles by making a scale on tape or adhesive to mark graduation.  Also looking into ways to index square to bed more easily.  Rotates smoothly, and remains in one plane.
  • with Dremel in milling position. 
  • I am working on.
  • says, "This is an independent power feed I came up with for my Taig lathe. It uses a simple motor plate to attach 540 sized (RC car sized) motor to the backside of the lathe to run the feed independently of the spindle. This allows use of all 6 spindle speeds, and 3 variable forward/reverse speeds on the feed. The motor forward/reverse variable speed is provided via a modified tattoo gun power supply (thought I recommend use of a regular power supply for simple reasons of quality and Amp handling). "

  • adapted a Taig tailstock to his old Unimat lathe

  • :
    My Taig is on a large board that just sits on my workbench and it has occasionally moved if I put too much pressure on the original handle, so I thought I would try for a handle that will allow a push and a pull at the same time to see if that would help. (I guess I could learn how to sharpen my drill bits, or at least buy new ones.)
    I started with an eighth by half mild steel and duplicated the holes from the original steel, then cut the new piece to length, leaving about 2.5 to 3 inches beyond each hole.
    I put a piece of 1 inch wooden dowel rod in the milling attachment/vice, and using an eighth inch Dremel burr in the collet, I cut a blind slot about 3/4 inch deep, as long as the cross slide travel would allow. My idea was to try to get the center of the steel in about the center of the wood. Once the slots were cut, I cut off the dowel at one edge of the slot and cut the other end leaving a 6 and a half inch piece and a 5 and a half piece. A little time on the sanding wheel eased the edges Again, using the milling attachment and vice, I drilled and counter sank the holes in the wood, more or less an inch apart, slightly beyond the slot to allow for the 8-32 x 1/2 socket flat head screws to bottom out in my counter sunk holes. Then I fit the steel into the slot, and tapped it tight to the bottom and end of the slot and marked where I needed to drill the holes in the steel. The steel was then drilled and tapped for 8-32 machine screws. I didn't see much sense in the bolt and nut to hold the original handle in place, and the cotter pin was a nuisance, so I turned the "belaying" pins to hold the handle in place. I made the one that goes through the 2 straps a bit thicker to accommodate the larger holes in bracket. (It bothered me to have the original handle flopping around if I disconnected the cotter pin and left the bolt attached. With the 2 pins, it's a cinch to completely remove the handle when I am using a dead center on the tailstock.
    I bit of stain and 3 coats of rub on poly on the wood and done.
  • as I did with the tailstock handle (and actually the same piece of dowel) I made a new handle for my spindle wrench. I wasn't really trying to get more leverage, just make it more comfortable to use, especially when I am cutting threads (tap or die) and turning the spindle by hand.

  • mounted a Taig chuck on his Prazi lathe: Here is the story and a few pictures of the Taig chuck on my Prazi SD-300 lathe. 
    By the way, this is the link to the yahoo group where this started:
    I wanted a 4-jaw independent chuck for my older Prazi SD-300 lathe, but I don't believe you can buy one any longer. I heard some folks where having a "register" (recess) cut into the back of a Taig 1030 chuck and adding studs to mount it like the Prazi 3-jaw chuck. There is a person in United Kingdom who will do this, but with shipping and difference in exchange rate it would have been over 0 (half of what I paid for the used lathe).
    So, I got the idea to buy an 2MT to 3/4"-16 arbor from Little Machine Shop and just screw on the Taig 1030 chuck. I happened into your website when searching for a Taig chuck, and I've been pleased with the support I've got from you. I also liked the quite affordable Taig accessories that screw-on to the 3/4"-16 spindle.
    I put it all together today and it had a little over .003" run out on the face of both the chuck and the face plate. So, I took your good advice and did a very light facing cut on the arbor right where the chuck and face plate mount. In the attached arbor picture the cut would be right on the nut portion of the arbor facing the camera. Then it went down to less than .001" run out, which is more accurate than about anything I can do.
  • : "At long last the mill motor conversion is complete. I milled the adjustment slot manually using my rotary table, it came out perfectly. It did require a longer belt, and I needed to bump the motor mount column up just a hair to get the belt to align properly. I have all the original pulley ratios and speed control at the touch of a knob. Being able to slow the cutter down really made a difference on a couple of test cuts in some 6061 aluminum. The motor controller head unit has an option to wire a remote unit, so I'll be doing that next. It will attach somewhere on the mill column and bring out just the speed adjustment and a Run/Stop switch.. I haven't worked out all the details on the housing and mount as yet."
  • "I thought I would pass on a couple of preliminary photos.  Since these photos, we've upgraded the coolant capacity from 1 gallons to 5 gallons by
    sitting the pump in a kitty litter box.  Notice that we added a miniature version of a plastic strip walk-in freezer type door on the left side of the
    machine.  It is to handle the remainder of the X-travel and accommodate larger pieces for which we're only milling the end, etc.  Not sure how messy
    one of the larger cutting operations is going to get, but our original machining (that didn't protrude through the "curtain") didn't get anything outside the enclosure."

  • "I figured I'd share something I put together with the lathe and milling attachment since your site has been such a huge source of inspiration and ideas. I wanted something I could mount a dial/digital indicator to so I built that first.  Then as I used it I figured it would be really simple to make an attachment that would add functionality as a cross slide stop- something I found myself wanting quite a few times.
    I overbuilt the indicator holder with a too thick piece of 6061 since that was the only stock I had at the time. It could be made much thinner and still work. The 4 holes allow the indicator to be moved forward and back as needed and the stop that mounts to the carriage can also be moved to allow for the 1 inch travel of my indicator.  After much frustration trying to tighten the indicator holder to the carriage with the limited clearance for the allen wrench I ended up silver soldering it into the cap head screw,  problem solved. If I had it to do again I wouldn't make the holes for the bolt that tightens to the indicator all the way through- it would be much more convenient for one side to be tapped instead of using a locking nut.
    Also of note are the pieces of brass on the stop holder.  This is because I'm still way too inexperienced at machining and I took too much material off.  A little epoxy and shim stock later and it works just fine. The half round cutout on the bottom rail of the stop allows enough clearance to remove it without completely removing the bolt,  but it also makes sure the stop won't slip backwards for any reason.  The set screw for the stop is just something I had laying around and I'll probably make a prettier one if I ever end up making a knurler."

  • "Here is the pipe, my phone does not take the best pictures though, I used the lathe to drill all the holes and chucked a sanding disk in the 4-jaw chuck to do some shaping,  ignore the mess around the lathe I stopped mid production to take a photo!  And I'm still working on where it's going to sit, it's mounted to my rolling toolbox."

  • "Am attaching a few shots of my latest projects.
    The only large tools I have are a drill press and a band saw. I did about 65% of the work on the Taig lathe, about 30% on a small MicroMark mill that was discontinued and 5% on my 45 year old Unimat. The first picture was my last project, finished 2 weeks ago after 4 months. I have MS and do not have use of my left leg and only the thumb and index finger on my left hand so work is slow. However life is good and I get to spend a lot of time in my miniature shop."

  • made a glass lathe with Taig parts.
  • 's extremely clean and well constructed cased lathe mount. "I don't use my lathe too often, and wanted a way to keep it safe and clean during off periods.  The lathe bed stores upside down above the motor,  The sleeve with the carrying handles folds flat to take up less room when the lathe is in use.  The table halves are held together at each end by hinges with removable pins."

  • 's motor mount. "I recently made the motor mount you laid out in a drawing with the following description on your web site: "Motor mount A crude sketch of a useful motor mount I use on the Taig lathe". 
    I made it from aluminum angle pieces and 3/8" threaded and unthreaded rod as well as the necessary nuts and collars as per your drawing.  I added a turning handle to the end of the threaded rod that I purchased.   In addition to what was included in your drawing, I tacked a thin sheet of shimming material under the sliding components of the new motor mount to form what I call a "wear pad" to minimize wear on the Taig mounting board.  It was not particularly difficult to make except it took some experimenting with different circumference Gates belts fore I had the right 450 mm. belt.  Using a string around the pulleys didn't seem to work and they are only a few dollars on 
    I use a 1/3 hp Dayton 1075 rpm capacitor motor I bought on ebay for .  It is physically smaller and lighter than the usual 1725 rpm motors, and I like that it turns the lathe a bit slower.  "
  • "Took me all day but I managed to make this. This one fits in my QCTP. It allows me to be able to put the flexshaft further away from the piece in cases where I'm turning/milling a larger object."

Tracy Presnell Making Parts on his Taig CNC Mill

  • I thought you might be interested my first project on the Taig CNC mill. The part is made from black Delrin and involves a number of operations. I have attached some pix of the first phase which includes rounding one end and milling a .437" dia.X.25 DP pocket and milling an L and 2 holes (.703" dia.X1.125 DP and .437" diaX1.0 DP). The part is 1 1/2" thick and is milled with a 3/8" cutter.
  • This is another Delrin part (3/8" thick) that gets a 15 deg.angle milled on one side. The total cut depth is .322" and starts with a .125" deep cut at 7.5 in/min and takes several .060" passes at 15 in/min. Made about 35 of these today (from 7 to 11 5/8" in length) and about 50 lbs of chips (well, it seemed like 50 lbs when I was vacuuming them up). MMMMM, the smell of formaldehyde (as you may be aware, acetal is polymerized formaldehyde
  • In order to do that, I bore out some blank collets for the different tools and put a #6-32 set screw in them. I also milled a flat on the cutter shafts (ain't carbide great) so the set screw had something to set into. Since two of the cutters are 1/2" diameter woodworking cutters, I also bored out one of the collet closers to fit over the cutters (again, ain't carbide great).
  • This is the smallest of 3 sizes of Delrin parts. pictures of the 15° milling on the back side these pics show the cutout work in the front side. The part is made with 3 cutters (3/16" end, 1/2" ball and 1/2" straight). Single-pass depth of cuts are up to .281" and feed rates are 5 to 20 in/min. The part spends 20 minutes on the mill and has 2 tool changes and the removal of a clamp near the end of the run to allow a final trim pass in one area. Along with the 5 minutes to mill the 15° angle, each part (and this is the smallest one) takes about 25 minutes. The holes are drilled in a drill fixture and are used as locators for both the front and back milling operations.
  • (already has the 15­­ deg angle machined on the back) loaded onto the fixture. Since there are 2 #7 drilled holes in the blade, I use them to locate it on the fixture and the locators are threaded 10-32 and I use a knurled brass nut to hold the part down.
  • shows a support plate installed and the front edge is clamped with the aluminum plate. I had to put the support plate under the 15 deg angle since I take it down to .094 and it gets really flimsy. The support is made of Delrin so that I can machine into it without fear.
  • is of the 1/2" ball nose (actually a router bit) making a .281 deep pass at 5 in/min part-way through it's operation. Yes, it is buried in there somewhere and there is an equal amount of chips on the floor as laying on the part.
  • is of a 1/2" straight bit (again a router bit) part way through its operation taking a .140 deep pass at 5 in/min. I had to take 2 passes with the straight bit as it taking more material per pass.
  • is a close-up of the 1/2" straight bit.
  • shows the 1/2" straight bit making a trim pass after the support and clamp has been removed.
  • shows the completed part (24 minutes later) I would estimate that 75 to 80% of the part's weight is removed during machining. The next part is 11 5/8" in length so we'll see if I have positioned the fixture on the table properly to eliminate any mishaps.

  • Thought you might enjoy some pics of the motor/spindle upgrade to the mill. I now have ER-20 collets up to 1/2" capacity.

  • The longer dovetail gives me the up/down adjustment I was wanting and will also tilt 10 deg left or right. I haven't installed the 1/2" dowel in the center since I need to polish one end of it down to fit into the hole in the mill (must be a few thou under).

  • I thought you might like some pics of some new items we are making on the Taig. They are master cylinder covers for the Suzuki Cavalcade motorcycle. They are made from 1/4" thick 6061-T6 and feature either the Suzuki "S" logo or the Cavalcade knight rider logo. We make the rider logo in mirrored pairs so that they can be installed facing each other or facing away from each other depending on what side they are installed. The underside is milled out to fit over the stock painted caps and they are attached with polished stainless steel button head cap screws. The milling operations include: 1/4" stock removal to reduce stock width from 2" to 1 3/4", .195" deep underside cut to fit over stock cap, end forming cut to radius corners and provide slight angle on ends, .003" facing cut to flatten top side, 1/16" ("S" logo) or 1/32" (rider logo) x .030" deep cut for logos. After milling the caps are sanded with 400 grit wet or dry and then polished to a mirror finish. Black paint is squeegee into the design for contrast
  • Well, got my power supply problem solved for the new motor. Yikes! That's double the rate I was getting with the stock motor. Ain't HP a wonderful thing?
  • The sides were trued with a 2in flycutter. The slot for the tool holder was cut with a 1/2" end mill taking .050 deep passes at 6 1/2 in/min feed rate. Didn't bat an eye.
  • A local company that builds motors ordered them. The holes and the circle blank are cut with a 3/16" endmill and the design is put in with a 1/16" endmill and then edge-trimmed with a 1/32" endmill
  • . It's a pair of mold halves out of aluminum. They were milled using a 3/8" 4-flute end mill running at 5000 RPM taking 1/8" deep cuts at 5.2 in/min feed. Edging cuts were with a 3/8" ballnose running same RPM but at 4 and 3 in/minute feed rate (depth dependant).
  • I decided to make some milled items for Christmas presents this year. The first picture is of some belt buckles I made on the mill. The lettering, edge trim line and stone pockets were made with the standard head and 1/16" cutter. The cut was .030" deep and I filled it with black paint and then polished the display surface to a mirror shine. The outer shape was cut with a 1/4" cutter in my 1/2HP head. The material is 6061-T6. Some of the buckles received turquoise stones and others had the pockets filled with paint (not everyone I gave them to likes gemstones). Yes, the last name of our family starts with "P". Made programming a lot easier.
  • I made for my sister-in-law. The material is 3/16" 7075-T6 (was what I had on hand) and the design was milled in with the standard head with a 1/16" cutter .030 deep. The design was filled with black paint and then the plate was finished with a rotary Scotch-Brite pad for a brushed look. Since the size of a standard car tag is 6" x 12", and the design and edge trim line required a Y axis move of 5.75",
  • out 1/2" with a couple of spacers so that I could get that much travel out of the Y axis without hitting the Z axis upright. Even though the Taig is advertised with 5.50" of Y axis travel, you really can't get more than 5.25" because the edge of your part will hit the upright. I wouldn't suggest using shims like this on any heavy duty cutting but, with the 1/16" cutter running at 3 IPM, it did okay.
  • for some passenger armrests for the Cavalcade motorcycle. The part is half of a clamp assembly that the armrest uprights will pivot on. It is 6061-T6 and the forming uses a 3/8" cutter for the roughing passes and a 1/4" ballnose for the finishing pass. The program has about 4400 lines of code most of which form the convex radius cuts on either end. I was able to calculate many of the X axis dimensions with Microsoft Excel after hand programming one positive and one negative Y axis move. I used a spacing of .010" on Y axis to get as smooth an arc as possible.
  • for the CNC mill so I could use it manually. I made them from some aluminum bar I had on hand, The handles are replacement knobs for pots. I got them for .80 ea. at the hardware store. A 1/4" stripper bolt and a setscrew and we have down-n-dirty handwheels.
  • for my 9x20 Enco lathe. So, in my everyday down-n-dirty fashion, I just used the spindle off the Taig mill. I had a bit of the dovetail that the head mounts to so I just drilled and countersunk it for some 10-32 capscrews and attached to the lathe crosslide. Worked great on this job. Barely enough power but got the job done. Used the original 4" chuck chucked into my 6" chuck to hold a ball bearing that needed some mods. TIR .002".

Mucho Thanks to

Steve Bachmann's Taig Projects

Mike Rowe's CNC Taig Mill and Paintgunsmithing

Thanks to .

Wayne Fields Taig Lathe and Antique Wagon Models

Thanks to !

Tom Cumming's Extended Bed Taig and Other Mods.

  • .
  • This photo shows the "three" parts unassembled. I was able to unscrew the top surface dispite the cement fill in the center part.
  • I did not solder, glue or machine the joint in any way. With the foot overlapping on the orignal base, I felt this was not necessary for the use I have for the lathe at this time.
  • Extended base ( and ) A couple of views of the lathe from both left and right. I will not have any need to use it for the full 24 or so inches that the extension gives me. With the "steadier" and the machine tool holder riding across both bases it does an excellent job. Much care is required when bringing wood dowels below 2mm.
  • Although my "mentors" told me to mount it on metal, I opted for a plywood base for the whole outfit. This is a mistake if you expect to do precision work, however, the bolt at the end of the board is an adjustment which allows all to be extremely rigid and snug at the joint.
  • Another idea I got from the boys! This allows me to move the motor sheaves in line with the sheave on the headstock. I intend to re-enforce the rod or replace it with larger diameter stock as it has a tendancy to bend. Happy tooling

Thanks to for the detailed photographs!

Geoff Kingma's Lathe and Mill Modifications

  • "About a month ago I queried Taig about retrofitting the new Z-axis slide to my Mill and they quoted a price of 5. This seemed a bit steep even though I realize that there are many bits and pieces that make up the new system. Having just finished a micro-adjustable boring head that would fit the Taig mill and lathe, I felt confident making dovetail slides. The dovetail was made to fit the existing vertical slide but was machined to the full 3/8" depth of the slide. A brass gib (1/8" thick) was installed and 5 gib screws (8-32 x 7/8") along with a lock was added. The results are amazing. So smooth with no play. I must have lucked out on the tap (from Poland) as there is no play whatsoever in the thread. As well the 5/16" adjustable lock handle (turned down to 1/4-28) allows no movement at all once cinched down. For an outlay of under Cdn. I think I have got most of the benefits of the new Z axis upgrade." (note the boring bar in the picture as well, from Guy Lautard's plans) (March 27th, 2001)
  • I had originally installed the countershaft to get the speed down with the supplied motor. Then I used a surplus treadmill motor along with a light dimmer and full-wave bridge etc. to get variable speed control. Now working on a better control system to run at low rpm's as the dimmer cuts in at 30v.
  • I made from plans from Hemmingway in the UK. I bought the plans, worm wheel and pinion from them and purchased the steel locally. Saved a huge amount on postage. The picture shows a Taig chuck arbor installed. The pinion can be removed turning the unit into a rotary table using a tommy bar and stops. Looks like it belongs on the mill table. Also made it able to work in a horizontal position.
  • along with numerous mods/additions. The chuck is a 3" TOS (excellent quality) and I used a Taig face plate as the backing plate.
  • based on the Rudy Krouphout design described in Home Shop Machinist. I just press fitted a cut down Taig arbor into the back plate and worked from there.
  • It started out as a prototype with a detailed sketch and try approach, but worked out quite well. It was quite the challenge to get everything, including the toolholder, within the 1" height limitation. The only change I made to the initial prototype was to the cross-slide hold down clamp. The original design was 2" square and had 4 clamp nuts running in the cross slide grooves. However it was too big resulting in the compound not being able to be set back far enough. The modification shown in the photo meant I had to tap two holes in the cross slide but I can now set up the cutoff tool in the back post with plenty of room for both. I used extruded cast iron (FE 654512) for the components. It has proved to be an excellent material to use and was machined mainly on the Taig mill. The unit would appear to be a trifle long (1 3/8" travel). However I wanted to be able to easily set it up for taper turning and the longer it is the more accurately one can dial it in. The narrow width though, allows for plenty of room compared to the Taig unit. As you may be able to see I used the one on my 920 lathe as a source for the design. The other change I made was to modify the dials to be adjustable using an O-ring in a groove to get the correct friction and positioning. This is a big improvement as the amount of arithmetic has been reduced significantly! To do this I machined the existing dials into a ring about 0.040" thick and made new centers. A split 1.5" OD. brass collar was used as a holder for the the dial when boring it out.
  • . "Some more details: I used 8-32 FH cap screws to mount the T-slot to the carriage and 1/4 - 20 SHCS for the stop screws. When I spotted the holes on the carriage to mount the T-slot I used a 0.010" shim (I think) to get the spacing between the slide and T-slot. The stops are longer than they need to be as the shortest 1/4 - 20 screw I had was 1". "
  • : "Last year I attended an auction for industrial equipment on the shores of Lake Erie and picked up a Mead AP-400M arbor press complete with a "dead" air cylinder for (plus tax!). I guess no one else saw its potential! It is a 3/4 ton unit and weighs 45lbs. I figured that there had to be a use for it and the attached photos show the end result, which I have just completed. It seemed to be made for the mill with almost perfect dimensions (option for Taig?). Needless to say the two pieces of cold-rolled steel I used cost me more than the press. The vertical back plate is 3/8" x 3" x 11 3/8". The holes in the press frame are 5/16" so I used 1/4-20 fhcs with the bottom left one in a tight fitting sleeve so it could be the pivot point. The adjusting screws I put in at the top enabled me to tune the vertical alignment. The base plate is 5/8" x 2 1/2" x 8 3/4" and was attached to the frame with 5/16" shcs. It extends out from the end of the frame so I used the stand-off block from the air cylinder as a brace. It was bolted to the frame as well. I put jack screws in the Y-axis extrusion to help get it aligned correctly and put a few small blobs of epoxy putty down for support. The press frame was surprisingly accurate to begin with so tuning was minimal. There is still a very slight bow (<0.001") to the vertical plate which I will shim or scrape to fix it. When I tested out the machine I was pleasantly surprised how quiet it was.The flycutter just hissed through the work, much the same as experienced on my shaper. It must be the extra mass damping out the vibration. The other big plus is the extra "swing" the frame gives. Now I can drill and/or mill fairly big plates. It was a fun project. "

Thanks to for the detailed photographs!

Andy Moe's Taig Modifications

  • Andy bought one of my index plate kits and
  • Andy used the plate to graduate his .
  • He needed to hold a boring bar, but didn't have a suitable holder,
  • ,"I 'discovered' carbide router-bits as miniature boring bars. What fun. Made this holder by simply drilling a hole through the Taig tool post. These router bits come in some pretty tiny sizes in relation to the 1/4" shank. The pic is the tool, holder, and a hardened nut from my Volvo's suspension rebuild kit. I needed a spacer and, Viola! I wish the photo could convey the fine degree of finish I got. Totally unnecessary in this instance but nice nonetheless."
  • , "I was looking at the site and saw that folks were making arrangements to have a screw-feed tailstock. The attached pic is of my screw-feed design. It needs refinements but it is light years better than a lever and cheater-bar. The knob on the end is temporary and lacks the bell-crank feature. The thing I like about it is that it only required a 1/4-20 tapped hole. That was the only modification to the tailstock unit itself. Should I decide I don't like it I can have it back to lever feed in about 5 minutes."
  • , another view.
  • " I picked one up last week and it's about what you'd expect: .0013" out of flat on a 360 degree rotation. Close enough for what I do, though. At is was hard to pass up and fits the Taig mill quite well, scale wise. I bought the model that has the crank at 45-degrees to the table. Keeps it out of the way of the Mill hand wheels in the horizontal and the head when set in an upright position."

Thanks to for the informative pictures.

Alex Newman's Taig Lathe

  • . I thought I was being clever when I dismantled the lathe when I had to do some both dusty and damp renovation work in what was my workshop. Clever in that I was attempting to keep the dust and damp off it. NOT clever in that I wrapped the darned thing in plastic after (I thought) completely smearing the bed in grease. And I also chose a stupid place to store it - some where where I thought was dry but in fact turned out to be under a water drip (eventually). The water got into the plastic bag via capillary action (of course), and found some spots where the grease was thinnest. The water then didn't get out of the bag (of course), and happily attacked the top surface of the bed.
  • , and using a mixture of 30W monograde oil and WD-40 as the lubricant, followed up with a Norton aluminum oxide (orange-brown) stone (very fine) with a sparse sprinkling of WD-40 after wiping off the oil mixture. I took the surface down so that sufficient area of metal highpoint started to show through the rust (i.e., the superficial layer of rust was removed). There are still a large number of rust pools and streaks remaining, many of which are probably about 0.3 mm deep. I could probably get away with it, seeing that most of the damage would be under the head- and tail-stocks, although I really don't like it!

Thanks to for the informative pictures.

Hideo Kawa's Taig Lathe and Accessories

Thanks to for the informative pictures.

Thanks to for the informative pictures.

Thanks to for the informative pictures.

"You can see the spring I have behind the door-hinged motor mount. Works great. The double brass knobs on the small slide knob really help as do the thumb screws for the tailstock , slide, travel stop, etc. The tail stock handle made of 1/2" copper pipe is held in place with a set screw that goes into a soldered brass nut. Doesn't loosen w/ use. The entire lathe is mounted on a 3/4" slab of aluminum. It has screwed on rubber feet on the bottom and wide handles. The power switch is on the slab too. A self-contained unit. Easy to transport or store. Very stable as the feet are short and wide and stiff. The base being aluminum makes it easy to tap holes to mount anything you want. Also, the piece on the tailstock is my home made die holder. Look at the front left side of the motor. See the mini toggle switch? That is for motor reversing. GREAT for backing off threadings at low speed and a loose tailstock. Bob Pinkus"

Thanks to for the informative pictures.

Robert has modified his Taig in many ways. There is a worm gear box which feeds the carriage by a 1/4-20 screw feed. The belt can be twisted to provide a simple reverse capability. The motor is permanent magnet DC and uses a diode and light dimmer for speed control. The steam engines were made with Roberts three lathes: a SB 10K, a 9x20 lathe and the Taig. "I sure love the Taig, it's just a blast to use. Nothing like it for fine work...", says Robert.

Thanks to for providing the great pictures.

Many Thanks to for the Photos of his Creative Modifications!

Keith Shaw's Lathe and Mill Projects

  1. This tool is going to be interesting to test. It is specifically for hemi ends on small rods, per my previous email. It will also handle out to 0.5" rod diameter (I think). The tool bit holder is mounted on a precision SKF bearing with 1.0" OD, and then the outer race-rim of this bearing is supported on 2 ball bearings at 120 degrees in the base -- the ol' 3 point bearing with pre-loading on main bearing idea. By grinding a washer I could adjust for literally no wobble by torquing down the inner race-rim, and also get a very smooth 180 degree move for the tool about the bearing axis. I can easily and precisely adjust the tool bit position (for an accurate hemisphere) using a delrin slider and leadscrew driven by the knurled knob. I'm in the process of finishing up the bit clamps, with forward slots marked.
  2. , and my first crack at the backing washer is giving me a runout through 360 degrees of about 0.001" and I can identify a bad spot in the rotation -- so some "elbow work" on the washer should get the runout down? The attached pic shows my setup for the test. The 1/2" hardened rod in the chuck is ground to specs (roundness and straightness) exceeding what I can expect from this lathe spindle and chuck. Can I get down to 0.0002"? Note the T-slot fixture -- for me at least, the 10-32 flat square nut is a pain to orient and get started in the T-slot. Also, there are 2 dowel pins on the underside of the toolpost that give a quick, accurate set perpendicular to the spindle axis.
  3. I will be changing to a DC motor, just as soon as I get some "hot" work completed.
  4. This is a turned and polished (with oiled 400 grit paper) aluminum piece, and interpolating with the 0.0005" per grad indicator it seems that I'm down to less than 0.0002" through 360 degree rotation? I polished to take out imperfections, on this scale, left by the crumby carbide tool that I was using and my manual tool feed.
  5. With the precision slide and 32 TPI leadscrew (on the right) we have a very smooth and reproducible motion of the rod going into the test cell (on the left) at way better than 0.001".
  6. -- like a big ol' Mitutoyo micrometer head that I have had around for many years. Man, it's cool! It gives me very precise and comfortable control of the tool motion, and with two-fisted (thumb and fore finger) operation I can get really smooth cuts. I'll probably dress it up some with a brass gripper ring -- when I have free afternoon.
  7. , and the "turned down" Taig wheel. You will easily see how it is assembled. I lost the Taig dial grads. No big deal, I'm not a fan of tracking these dials and I will be using a gauge as previously discussed. In the meantime my calipers do just fine.
  8. (and matching HP power supply) that I wanted to try with the Taig lathe, and so here is an experiment as compared with the GE AC motor. We all love the nice easy variable speed feature?
  9. The step pulley is mounted on a shaft fitted to a 3/4" ID ball bearing, which is mounted via the aluminum ring to the bracket holding the DC motor. Of course the Taig cut the motor pulley! The whole assembly is nicely balanced, runs true, is very quiet and is literally without any vibration. And yikes -- I just noticed that the bearing is being held to motor bracket with a single 4-40 bolt, in the rush to tension the motor belt and get on with doin' some cuttin'!!
  10. -- like 100 oz-inches (continuous, 500 oz-inch max) at the step pulley shaft running at around 1550 RPM i.e. I can run the motor up to 8000 RPM continuous with no problem at all, and I use this to advantage by using a base reduction gear of 1:4.5 So I cut some small 6061 T6 aluminum parts up to 3/4" diameter and ripped off metal at a high rate, just like the GE clunker --- Hmmmm. Then did some fine cuts and they were absolutely beautiful -- Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. Then moved to some 3/8" aluminum mounted on a mandrel and cut a "wheel" with 2-1/2" diameter. Again, material came off at a more than acceptable rate. The belt between step pulley and lathe stretches and trys to slip before this little DC motor bogs down! Yep, this little motor can get it done (for my work scale and materials) and just maybe I'm going to tidy it all up and make it a permanent setup. A note on the mandrel: I found that using dual self-adjusting washers (the ones with the matching curved surfaces) in conjunction with my standard mill T-slot nut with 1/4-20 thread gives a real solid grip with minimal pressure from the nut on a workpiece.
  11. ran a 1/4" hole with drill into aluminum piece, then "expanded" using a 1/2" end mill with 3/8" shank in a Jacobs chuck. Moved metal real well again? This, for me, is a common operation to prepare for working with a boring bar. If I can find a 3/4" end mill with the same shank in my "miscellaneous box" The motor is a Maxon motor and there is a guy in CA that had some of these available as used, surplus units; while the power supply is an older HP unit rated for 0-60V and 0-3A. The motor draws around 1-1.5A when its working and 0.5A when it's loafing along, at a nominal 40 VDC. These motors are available new from a US distributor, but are quite expensive (0+). I knew about them on military and aerospace projects when I worked at Raytheon -- they were considered as the best available, period. I seem to remember a nice PWM speed controller at around that would drive this motor.
  12. , and added some shelving behind the lathe in the "found space"
  13. , and added a rubber pad to take out transmission of a very small vibration from the drive step pulley when running the motor at 11000 rpm! The drive pulley to lathe belt tension is adjusted by tilting the motor mount bracket, adjusting the position of a block under the bracket and re-tightening the 3 bracket hold-down screws.
  14. and finished the rim surface with a square tool bit. Polished it off with a paper towel and checked with a dial indicator. The TIR was less than 0.0002" . Also, the maximum deviation across the 3/8" face was similar. This is quite impressive, and I was not sure if I could believe the indicator (even though everything seemed to be OK when I tapped the indicator body, etc.)
  15. , with vernier to 0.0001", on the lathe bed And as you probably expected --
  16. with interpolation between the 0.0005" grad marks, matched the micrometer to within 0.0001".
  17. , and the motor didn't even work up a sweat..... Got the inspiration for this project from Bob Wilkins' tailstock on your website.
  18. : locked to cut
  19. while the T-nut remains on the cross-slide. It's real easy to locate the T-nut and start the tightening process
  20. I did have to replace the T-slot nut with a carefully machined piece of steel (because you do not know how the 10-32 thread tap starts?) to get an accurate and consistent handle position for the lock position.
  21. I have learned how useful a round-nose toolbit can be on the lathe, especially for fast roughing out of parts. So got to try some toolbit grinding to experiment with tip radius, but was limited by a crude grinder setup. So, back to finishing up a better system -- picture of project in progress.
  22. and as I had not worked with tubing before I put together a fixture for turning between centers that worked quite well -- cleaning up a tube end
  23. The aluminum "thing" has two bronze bushings, on 1" centers, that were reamed out to fit on a 1/4" drill rod which then mounts in a Jacob chuck on the Taig tailstock. The rear bronze bushing face was faced off and ran very smoothly under pressure against the hardened steel chuck jaws. This whole setup was pretty rigid, but uses some lathe bed space.
  24. Yep, used a cheapo (but SS) protractor from Enco that had become redundant. Initially I was going to do a 0-90-180, but then decided to make it more flexible with just a little more work. The key is a split brass insert that really grabs the arbor shaft to set a workpiece angle with just finger tightening through the rod with knurled brass knob, and it does not alter the angle as you tighten up. Furthermore, the brass protects the arbor shaft as only the outside brass insert surface in contact with the locking rod takes some wear.
  25. to drive the leadscrew via a pulley mounted to the standard Taig handwheel assembly, the prototype that I'm trying out right now is shown in the attached pics. This allows the drive to be instantly disengaged by moving the lever (with the ball handle) up - even with the drive motor running. Assuming you do not totally fall asleep this seems to be a fairly safe mode of operation as there are no gates or locks involved for the control lever. In this up position you can use the handwheel as normal - and yes, you can read the graduations.
  26. (one of your standard sizes), with the pulley diameters being used, grips just fine with the engage lever pushed down but held in place only with friction between the aluminum block that is part of the motor mount assembly and the backplate - the surfaces in contact having an area of about 0.5 square inch. The friction can be controlled by a compression spring that is accessible from behind the backplate.
  27. to be used with a digital camera to get high resolution pictures from a microscope, out to a User Group and as all the adapter parts were fabricated using the Taig lathe I thought you may be interested to also see them: Complete SONY F505 setup on a simple compound microscope. It's kinda tough taking a picture of the SONY with the SONY, so this one is taken with a low-end digital camera!
  28. 50mm SLR lens and three adapter rings, view from the camera end.
  29. , view from microscope eyepiece tube end.
  30. (integrated circuit) with inter-connect wires, at relatively low magnification.
  31. at 1600x1200 resolution at about 200x magnification.
  32. , using a ball with clamp for universal positioning
  33. for holding and precisely positioning odd shaped parts for an optical test bench, in lieu of a 4-jaw chuck. Typical part is 2" square plate (1/4" aluminum} with off-center 1.05" hole
  34. - it was way less than 0.001" over a 6" span
  35. , after new lapping and gib adjustment - again way less than 0.001" over 6" span. BTW, this gib adjustment on the old-style mill is nasty, to say the least?
  36. holding long part that required a precisely aligned hole to be drilled in the end of a relatively long part. Note the "chopped down" Taig tailstock chuck arbor mounted in the lathe chuck, with a Jacobs chuck, rather than removing the chuck and using the standard drill chuck mount. Whoa, I forgot - can't do it, as I have the spindle setup for WW collets!
  37. , and is to be incorporated into the miniature CAM tester
  38. about how to best utilize the Taig spanner to "lock the spindle", as I did NOT want to tamper with the spindle or drive pulley. The result was a modified spanner with two "holders" mounted to the spindle housing to hold the spanner in place around the spindle 1-inch nut. I wanted to keep the holder dimensions to a minimum so as not to interfere with space around the spindle/collet holder, and with aluminum and a 1/2x10-32 bolt it does not move (or bend) when the collet is tightened down hard and then loosened to change the tool. So far, it has been a real joy to use!
  39. now that I have had to move inside from the deck (that was wonderful for the Summer).
  40. When complete it attaches to the T-slot on front of the x-axis table. It's limited by the dial gauge to 2.0" of travel, but I can reliably extend this by re-zeroing. However, for me, the majority of parts that require this readout fit within this range of travel.
  41. , showing a universal bearing part with dual bronze 1/4" ID bushings. This bearing part runs on a 1/4" drill rod mounted in the tailstock Jacobs drill chuck. The basic idea was to machine new conical parts, to fit on the universal bearing for different size tubing - a relatively simple task using the Taig compound slide. Also these parts may wear and will neeed to be replaced.
  42. using a spring to keep a more constant load on the tube end
  43. of a rough ended tube (bandsaw cutoff) during initial machining at mandrel end. Once this end is cleaned up the mandrel holds the tube true and very stable for machining the outside surface across the length of the tube. This setup is far superior to the earlier versions. The spring and its mounts remain stationary during machining, and the rotary bearing surface is the universal bronze bushing running against a brass insert press fit into the aluminum spring mount.
  44. The bigger spring was cut down from a return spring used on a punch press.
  45. showing the pulleys installed on an improved version of the variable speed Maxon DC motor drive. The original unit (with single ball bearing) held up surprisingly well, but it was time to do a more rigid mount. Also, the belt tensioning is now more precise with dual slides.
  46. was modifying a TSE QCTP to fit on the Taig lathe (I found out the hard way that it's actually designed for a Sherline) - It really is very slick to use and is more rigid than I anticipated, but in my opinion it is a little too bulky for this size lathe. I left the over-sized base plate (adapter) on the toolpost to allow running some experiments with a clamp in the second T-slot on the carriage. I have to go back and spend some more time to find out why my "poor man's QCTP" seems to hold to the carriage without any twisting and with only moderate pressure on the T-slot nut, whereas with the TSE I have to really torque up?
  47. I have used both the Taig lathe and mill now for over 2 years and they get the job done for my small parts! Many people have asked about the Taig equipment when they see the parts and assemblies/prototypes/toys/etc. However, it seems that these parts keep getting smaller.
  48. to fit on the Taig lathe carriage - see attached. It was quite a challenge getting the tensioning and winding control "right" for wire in the 0.0025" - 0.00078" diameter range.
  49. , based upon my experiments with the original design. I now have a push-button to activate the powerdrive, which is a real safe (conservative?) mode of operation as the powerdrive stops instantaneously when you release this button. But by turning this button to the right and pushing in you can lock the powerdrive on - now it's hands free but it's smart to watch what's happening! Once again I find that I get significantly smoother cuts with this powerdrive as compared with manually winding on the crank handle. Of course, it's great for long runs...
  50. I have been experimenting with grinding my own lathe toolbits. As I use a 'round tip' tool for a lot of lathe work, I mounted this particular tool in my modified Taig toolholder to allow quick tool reorientation. Then I got used to 'touching up' this tool with a diamond bar sharpener by simply refinishing the top surface of the tool. Oops - tool alignment problems leading to the infamous stub on the workpiece centerline when facing off a part. So, yesterday (on a whim) I tried a rocker toolpost design. I made a guess for the rocker move and finished up with 0.005" at each extreme, per feeler gauge. It's really simple to fabricate - and it works great! Adjustment for perfect tool alignment is really fast. I questioned giving up some rigidity by not having the tool clamped to the bottom surface of the toolpost holding slot, but I saw no indication of a problem with some aluminum test parts.
  51. that I found in a 'scrap' lot with my pals in Seabrook, NH. Of course I'm now using it with the Taig mill. It's a crying shame, but if I'm not around to grab this stuff it finishes up in China as scrap metal...
  52. The wiring has now been tidied up and I have added a microswitch interlock for the spindle motor. This prevents trying to run this motor with my tool changing spindle lock inadvertantly left in place!! The drilling setup uses the same up-down direction and stepped/continuous controls (see lower right panel in pic) as the x-powerdrive - with an extra SPST switch to change between axes. I never enjoyed drilling without a quill on the Taig, but this new setup works very well as I also have an accurate and wide range control of the drilling speed via the standard HP variable voltage power supply.
  53. for my most commonly used mill tooling!
  54. I'm using to inspect parts under a microscope. The mounting rod diameter is just 0.018"...
  55. It is required to hold the prototype part so that I can drill a nice 0.055" hole on center that is exactly concentric with the part's vertical axis.
  56. was done from a STL file with a relatively new 3D printer service. It uses an inkjet-type technology to build up the part in layers about 0.003" thick. Not a perfect finish (at these dimensions) but I can get another test part within 2 days for about !
  57. to drill a 0.052" hole through a turned 6061 tube with OD of 0.065" and wall thickness of 0.006". I tested with the 0.052" drill, 1/8" aluminum and my Z-drive - superb holes without center drill to start. I was too excited to try it all out, so I did not measure the runout. But I could not see any movement at the drill tip with my magnifier headset and I know this is a very good sign! Aaaaah, now all I do is whip out an end mill and change to the drill chuck.... Sweet. Now there are limitations. The turned steel is not rehardened and so I'll have to be careful to try and protect the arbor - like torque down on the collet to prevent slippage. Also, I will restrict to small drills only i.e. up to 1/8"? Of course, the variable and constant feed speed for drilling with the Z-drive helps plenty....
  58. to position and rotate toolpost on the lathe carriage, along with replacement for 10-32 nut - much easier insertion into the carriage T-slot
  59. The brass collar is the force bearing part for locking the toolpost to the carriage, cf. Taig hex head bolt. Note that with a 10-32 bolt there is marginal material available for tapping. However, there are approx. twice the number of threads for the aluminum part as compared with the Taig steel nut.
  60. for locking down the toolpost and adjusting the lathe tool. With a 1" ball handle there is sufficient torque to ensure a rigid lock down of the toolpost in almost all situations. However, if you need additional torque, you can still use an allen key internal to the knurled knob.
  61. with a diameter of 3/4". Why this size knurled knob? I had them available in stainless steel and they allow solid toolpost lockdown with finger pressure.
  62. when properly set up on a microscope. So, starting from scratch I'm designing and fabricating both the microscope and the camera assembly. Yikes! Time for a big tidy up....

Dave Gil's Taig Lathe

  1. with my favorite attachments. I have a 1/3 horsepower DC motor which I run from a variac with a rectifier. It gives my plenty of power and torque with reversibility, and infinite speed adjustment. The motor is suspended from the headstock. The lathe is bolted down to a 1 inch thick aluminum plate. I have a stereo microscope mounted on a magnetic base; I use it all the time. I have a splash guard around the headstock, as well as a lexan splash guard on the rear of the base.
  2. Note the green felt strip which serves as a chip scooper, and bed oiler; there is another one on the front side of the carriage. I should have wrapped it around the dovetails too. You can also see the O-Rings on the dials, and the plastic knobs on the handles. Also note how the protective rubber sheet fits inside the T-slot on the side of the crosslide.
  3. . Note the top of the riser has two sets of dovetails for mounting the headstock sideways for slotting, etc. Also visible is my homebrew ways protector, and my Z-Axis adapter on the left (a work in progress).
  4. by folding over a strip 1/16 inch diaphragm rubber material (has a fabric weave inside which makes it very tough) and clamping in down tight. Next, stick it in a toaster oven on low for an hour and it will keep its shape fairly well.
  5. in the crack of the dials add a really nice smooth friction feel to the dials, and keeps them from wondering around. Top view: "engaged"; bottom view: "disengaged". To disengage, simply roll the o-ring off into the groove in the dial.
  6. so that I could use a crosslide with an extension which gives me over 2 inches of crosslide travel. I have several crosslides, and I can slip them in, and out each with a custom tool bit setup just like if I had a turret post.
  7. , and had to make my own assortment of 10-32 T-slot, and tie down rigging since no one seem to make any sets that small.
  8. I had to add a 1/8 inch sheet of steel over it in order to be able to use magnetic bases (a must!). Visible from left to right are my magnetic light base, magnetic microscope base, and magnetic base dial indicator. On the top of the headstock is my mount for my plastic splash guard which does a good job of keeping chips from flying all over the place.
  9. which I made from some extrusions that Taig was kind enough to send me. To the right is my electro magnetic chuck. On the bottom is my 12 inch milling table made from a stick of brass that I had lying around.
  10. from the far side. It shows my combination poor mans' power feed, and threading adapter.
  11. . Made from some surplus aluminum, and an old Taig lathe bed.
  12. Note that the motor is completely suspended from the headstock by a single bushing on a 1/4-28 stud. The weight of the motor puts just the right amount of tension on the belt. This system has worked great. I add a spring under the motor to reduce belt friction (like a clutch) for when I'm tapping small holes. The two bores on the bottom of my headstock riser receive various depth stop, power feed, and threading attachments which I can drive from the spindle, or geared motors.
  13. with the variac to the right.
  14. Taig was kind enough to provide me with some lengths of their extrusions.
  15. with the small riser, my threading adapter, and my geared power feed which can only push the carriage; it can not pull it back in (one way power feed?). My poor mans' threading adapter is geared 1 to 1 with the spindle. You install all-threads of different pitches; mainly I just use 1/4-20, and 1/4-28, but I also have metrics.
  16. is nothing more than a geared motor pushing on the carriage with a 1/4-20, or 1/4-28 screw.
  17. , ways protector, and depth stop.
  18. . Note the simple aluminum tube on the handle; it just slips out when you want to get it out of the way.
  19. with the rubber protector removed; a piece of 1/16 inch diaphragm rubber material.
  20. . It has casters, it's made from real solid wood, and has a stainless steel top that will surely outlast me.
  21. . The aluminum channel on the right holds a piece of 3/8 inch lexan that acts as a rear splash guard, and is easily removed. Note that the whole assembly sits about an inch above a serving tray. I like to use plenty of lubricant when I am machining, and it is all collected nicely by the fiberglass tray.
  22. with my homebrew indexing head.
  23. . I used to use it all the time before I installed my ways cover.
  24. which can hold up to a 3/8 inch tool bit very firmly. Also visible here is my custom ground dovetail cutter, and my v-block.
  25. (.29 at Harbor Freight Tools) is a great way to organize tool bits, and end mills.
  26. I almost always use cobalt, or inserts since they last so much longer.
  27. . You can actually see that half thou that you're dusting off. I almost never machine without my microscope these days. It's really cool.
  28. It has really nice ball slides so it is fairly fragile.
  29. , I only use it for very light work with tiny end mills. Presicion microscope work only.
  30. but if you add a small piece of brass, or steel shim stock in between the dovetails, the equation changes completely. I just glue it down with RTV. Brass can be seen on the left piece, and stainless steel on the right piece.
  31. every 1/3 inch and fit nicely into the T-slot. They are readily available at electrical supply houses, since they are used inside electrical load boxes.
  32. not attaching to the crosslide rigidly enough; this is true. The photo shows two different ways that I use to solve the problem.
  33. The headstock is barely visible behind my 6" faceplate. My friends tell me that the whole setup looks weak and flimsy, but it is surprisingly rigid. The spindle sits on a custom head riser, and on top of it is a 20 pound block of steel which really helps to minimize vibrations. I attached a stepper to the head riser for moving my custom made carriage. I use a 6-inch crosslide, which is really useful, especially with the milling attachment. I got the crosslide extrusion from Taig, and I really think that they should market it as an option!. As can be seen, I also added a stepper to the crosslide, and it works very well. I highly recommend that the bed be completely protected as seen in the photo. The covers are easy to remove when needed. Under these covers are green felt oilers/chip-scrapers wrapped around the dovetails. They work great, I highly recommend them. I designed custom hardware and software to control the machine.
  34. In addition to the large one on top of my headstock, I routinely attach other, smaller masses to my crosslide to help with vibration, and resonances. They can really improve the quality of the finish, and they add a more 'rigid' feel to the machine. They are also very handy since I can attach magnetic devices to them.
  35. gives a better view of my custom made carriage, along with the crosslide, and compound on top. The green felt bed wipers are also just barely visible near the handwheel. My microscope has also become an integral part of my machine.
  36. a clearer picture of the headstock area. The motor is completely suspended from the headstock. This scheme has worked very well for me. Directly under the motor, behind the stepper is my depth stop, which uses a 1/4-20 screw with a dial for fine adjustments. My variac power controller can be seen on the left.
  37. to make it adjustable by means of a fine threaded adjustable knurled spacer. This has proved to be really useful.
  38. out of a stock tool post. I've also made a number of boring bars out of broken end mills. Just take a two-flute end mill, and grind off one flute. Also visible are indexing style boring bars made out of 1/2, and 3/8 inch bar stock.
  39. This one was made out of a high quality DC motor, and mounts onto a modified tool post holder. I took another tool post, and I attached two opposing 3/8-24 studs to it to hold 3/8 inch drill chucks.
  40. were modified to mount directly on the crosslide. The collet holder, and flycutter were made out of standard bolts. They have 1/2 inch shanks to fit in my mill.
  41. have proved invaluable. I made them out of 1/2 inch bar stock. They fit in the T-slots, and they can really bite down. First you tighten down the 10/32 socket head in the center. Then you slip the eccentric bushing over that. Using a 7/16 wrench you rotate the eccentric bushing until it snugs up against your workpiece. You can see them in use in my photos containing my large faceplate. I also use them on my mill.
  42. Note the rubber chip guard that fits in the crosslide's 'side t-slot'. It's easy to remove it when it gets in the way.
  43. that I use often. It has some backlash. The wrench, and large rubber band are part of my anti-backlash control system.
  44. you can see my small indicator which I've mounted to the crosslide. Its really helpful for truing the workpiece. It's on a semirigid flex shaft, so it's easy to move it out of the way.
  45. may not be a Taig, but it certainly has plenty of Taig pedigree. Much of its parts were made on my Taig, including the spindle, quill, spindle holder, Table ends, dials, and a myriad of minor parts. The key components were surplus odds, and ends. The tables are linear bearings, and move like silk. The steppers can be seen near the handles. I made the T-Slots compatible with Taig. As can be seen, the spindle is driven directly from the DC motor. A tachometer is employed along with a motor controller to give me constant speed with varying torque loads. I designed custom hardware and software to control the spindle, and steppers.
  46. that I used to make my mill. It's all surplus stuff.
  47. being bored on my Taig. They are 6 inches wide and are about the biggest things that I can swing with my head riser. The bore is to accommodate the stepper motor. The other table end can be seen on the lower left.
  48. comes to the rescue again as I bore a 2 inch hole in my Mill spindle holder. I needed to use a 1/2 inch tool bit, so I chose to use the milling attachment as a tool bit holder. Whenever I clamp large parts to the faceplate, I also use a little hot glue as a sort of insurance policy. It's easy to peel it away when I'm ready to remove the part.
  49. I wish that I had known about it years ago. I'm sure that it's described in a machining book somewhere but I had never heard of it before. I came up with it on my own out of sheer desperation prior to my CNC conversions. It is a method that can be used for milling or turning complex contours on a manually operated machine. When done correctly one can achieve accuracies in the order of a few thousands, or better. In essence what you do is to draw a contour of your tool path using your computer. Then you print it out, attach it to your table, and follow the tool path that you've traced with your machine. The results are pretty spectacular once you've practiced a bit. More in Depth: You can draw your tool path using your favorite CAD program, MS Paint, a photo editor, or whatever. My vanilla type Epson ink jet printer produces lines that are about 5-mils wide with unbelievable accuracy (using glossy photo paper). Next, tape the drawing to the mill table (lower right corner of photo). A microscope improves the accuracy, but is not required. My microscope has a crosshair reticle in the eyepiece, which allows me to zoom in on the 5-mil wide line in order to resolve less than 1 mil. I then set up my part to be machined (upper left corner of photo). Now I simply manually turn the X, and Y dials in order to follow the trace in my crosshairs. If you don't have a microscope make a pointer using a pin, or a piece of wire. A magnifying glass helps. With a little practice, the results are pretty amazing. What I generally do to obtain better finishes is that during my first pass, I stay on the outer edge of the trace. This leaves the part a few thou oversized. I then a take a second (or more) 'finish pass' by getting closer to the middle of the trace. The same technique can be used while turning a part on the Taig. Try it. You'll like it... Good luck!
  50. for years but couldn't find one anywhere. A set of 1/4 inch indexable carbide holders that are a perfect match for the Taig. I recommend that all Taig owners get one of these sets. They are available at Harbor Freight Tools (, and the whole set is only as shown. You can't beat it. By the way, I am in no way affiliated with them.
  51. which I use with my Taig, and also with my mill. They run off a single parallel port and can control 3 (or more) steppers. I also have a PCB laid out, but I haven't sent it out to fab yet. Steppers can be controlled in full step, or helf step mode. With a 20 pitch leadscrew, positioning resolution is 1/8 of one thou. If there is enough interest, I'll clean up the design a bit, document things, and release it all into public domain.
  52. I originally designed it to control an automated stylus based digitizing station. It can be 'jogged manually' using the keyboard, or a joystick. It can be set to 'ramp', 'zig zag', etc. It can also execute a limited subset of G-Codes, as well as script files. The software can be run from DOS, a Windows DOS shell, or Linux. It runs perfectly on those old laptops that you can get at the flea market for under . It is written using Borland C++ which is now freely available. It supports a mouse, and has a graphical user interface. It is definitely in 'beta stage' right now. If there is enough interest, when I get some time, I can document things a bit, and release the program, and source code into public domain.
  53. , where I have my setup. The mill can be seen in the foreground, and the lathe is in the back.
  54. I've preserved the Taig 10-32, 1" center T-slot pattern so that they'll also work with my mill. On the bottom from left to right: the 6" crosslide, the 6" faceplate, lathe compound, rotary table, spindle mounted X-Y table (above), 6" upright (top left).
  55. I printed a nice assortment of index patterns for the back of my faceplate: degrees, gradients, decades, etc. so that I can scribe my own dials and stuff. The rotary table is made out of a Taig faceplate.
  56. The grinder and rotary table are in the background. My compound can be seen on the crosslide with the microscope above.
  57. with the lathe compound on it. I can use this on both the lathe and the mill. It has a lot of practical uses.
  58. It works great.
  59. It's made from a linear slide so it's very precise. There are strong magnets under the (non magnetic) stainless steel table (right). It holds the parts down tight!
  60. Note the 1" crosslide extender (which was pretty easy to make), and adds allot of extra usability. I think that someone should market an extender like this.
  61. It was actually pretty difficult to make because it had to fit perfectly since it has no adjustment for slack. However, it can be locked down tight.
  62. All dovetails & T-slots are compatible with Taig.
  63. but it added another 'dimension' to my equipment. It has Taig T-slots, and it's 1" thick, so it's very solid.
  64. I can very precisely position parts for turning. It also mounts on the crosslide (or the mill), and can be used as a regular X-Y table.
  65. . This chuck was originally out of old semiconductor (wafer) processing equipment.
  66. I can't use a water mist, but I find that spraying WD-40 on the surface of the part works just fine. I get a really great finish (and on the lathe also).
  67. for jobs that require greater precision than what my Taig can provide. It's made mostly from surplus odds and ends, plus a few custom made pieces. I preserved the Taig spindle and T-Slot patterns. I employ a precision ground and hardened spindle, ball slides (rather than dovetails) and zero backlash screws along with high resolution (800 step) steppers to achieve positioning resolution of 1/10th with excellent repeatability. The large table adds versatility by making it easy to have multiple tool post setups, milling attachments, a 'live' tailstock mount, etc. The spindle is driven by a Taig pulley set and a 1/3 horsepower DC motor which gives me reversability along with continuous speed control. A motor controller precisely sets speed, and torque. I can also drive the spindle with a stepper motor for indexing, threading, scribing dials, etc. The spindle uses large bearings, accepts Taig 3/4-16 chucks, but it has a larger (1/2") through hole which makes it more versatile. An adapter allows me to use my Taig collets. It's all mounted on a 2 inch thick aluminum base, so it's very rigid. I control it all with my custom made DOS software.
  68. ; both hardware and software. My fixtures, as well as my lathes and mill preserve the Taig spindle & table mounting patterns, so everything is easily interchangeable. I added a microscope that's mounted to the spindle motor, so that it 'rides' with the cutter. It's very usefull for intricate, small cutter work such as when routing a printed circuit board. I've tried many CNC softwares, but I prefer to use my custom made DOS program the most.
  69. and a worm drive to my rotary table which I made from a Taig faceplate. It has so many uses. Here, I'm sharpening a solid carbide, 8-flute cutter with a diamond wheel. I can get a factory finish out of it. I use an indicator along with software to determine the ever-important flute lead pitch. I can also accurately resharpen slitting saws, grind threads, scribe dials, etc.
  70. is very antiquated now, but I still use it. I originally developed it to control a coordinate measuring system (Digitizer). It won't even run from a Windows shell anymore, but it runs just fine on old, cheap laptops that have a parallel port, and either DOS, or Windows 98, and it can also be run from LINUX. I use it all the time, and I keep improving it. It has a nice interactive graphical interface, allot of canned functions for things like sharpening end mills, threading, arcs, circles, pocketing, etc. I can process CNC, DXF, Gerber (for routing PCBs), and even image files. When I'm not using it for CNC work, I can still use it as a power feed, and as a position indicator.
  71. on to the Taig bed in place of the carriage. The dovetails were replaced by precision ball slides. The 40-turn leadscrews provide a very fine movement which produces very smooth arcs and circles. Resolution is better than 100 microinches.
  72. along with bronze nuts. When new, it was perfect, but now, the backlash is about 5 thousands. Over the years, I've tried many antibacklash techniques, but this is my favorite. It's fairly simple, inexpensive, effective, and easy to adjust or remove when you don't need it. The extra long spring insures a fairly constant backforce over the entire table travel distance.
  73. I use it for both my mill and my lathes. I have 4 axis control, and I drive it off a parallel port on my laptop. When I can find some time, I plan to convert the interface to USB to make it more modern and versatile. I also have the design laid out on a printed circuit.
  74. I bolt down some machinable index studs (in blue) into the T-Slot, then I machine them true on-site so that I can use them as a reference to perfectly index vises, and other fixtures without having to play with indicators.
  75. , and now I wouldn't have it any other way. The tool post is multi sided, and fully articulated. It can hold cutters up to 1/2 inch, as well as boring bars, cutoffs bars, and mini grinders. Small, 1/4-inch cutters are mounted on the left side, and they can be tilted up or down, rolled, rotated, and locked down in just about any position. This also makes it easy to position them to give them that 'perfect' grind.
  76. on to a piece of metal, or plastic. Each pixel is drawn as a point using a carbide scribe. The depth of the impression of each point corresponds to the brightness of the pixel. You can then color it, or use it with an ink pad as a custom made stamp. The process is painfully slow, but it runs completely unattended, so it's pretty cool. This is my baby picture, which is made using 3000 points. When running, the mill resembles a sewing machine 'stitching' a few points per second.
  77. A spindle mounted, adjustable indicator, a poor-man's boring head, and an indexable flycutter.
  78. with my Taig lathe on the left, the new lathe in the center, and my mill to the right.
  79. , along with an extra new tool post stud. The XY table can be seen in the background.

Mitch Singler's Taig Lathe

  1. My shop is actually in a storage cage in my apartment. It's approximately 8 ft. X 8 ft. So I have a little bit of room to set up my home shop. I have a Taig lathe and a Chinese made drill press that I picked up on sale for .00
  2. Tony Jeffree (mentioned on your site) for the tailstock offset modification plans.
  3. mounted on the headstock to hold my dial indicator. I really like that taig designed all of the t-slots on the lathe
  4. The one with the biggest slot is for my dial indicator.
  5. It's under my workbench, so I have a light there above the toolbox.
  6. The aluminum clamps were made from plans posted on Sherline's web site, they have an area for users projects.
  7. . the one on the right is what I made it from. I acquired some brass knurled knobs from an old engraving machine and modified them for my lathe.
  8. I finally got around to carving out a block of wood to store all of the pieces on. Also two of the tooling plates I made.
  9. , with faceplate and lathe dog.
  10. for my cross slide (Tom Benedict's idea).
  11. between centers with dog.
  12. next to my compound slide. very simple, just a socket head cap screw with 2 washers and a square nut underneath. I put one on each side, after setting the angle with the protractor head on my combination square

Forrest Atkinson's Taig

  • -Lead screw (1/4-20 left hand thread).
    -Sherline adjustable hand-wheels.
    -WW headstock
    -Adjustable voltage DC motor and custom control box
    -3/4" thick aluminum base.
    -Keyless chuck.
  • is for the Taig lathe and works better than I had hoped. The handle was made using the tool. The round 1/8 shaft protruding is the cutter. I have other tip shapes depending on the shape needed at the base of the ball to be cut.
  • Specs on the tractor are: -Twin Solenoid, 90 deg timed motor. -Forward/Reverse sliding gear transmission. -Ball bearing differential. -Automotive type steering. -Power = 14.4 Ni-Mh 3000ma power cell. -Two shoe snap clutch. -Start date September 1996 - almost all of the tractor was constructed using the Taig lathe and Sherline mill. -For size comparison the screws on the cooling tower are 0-80. -Speed control is done via 1-33v, 5A regulator. -Run time on the battery under load should be around 45 minutes. -I cut all but the first reduction gears (2). I will have the tractor at N.A.M.E.S. 2004 show. Pictures of the tractor in an earlier stage can be found in the December 1998 issue of Modeltec magazine.
  • "The motor uses the same principle as the atkinson cycle but produces two power strokes per crankshaft revolution. It uses a pinball solenoid as a linear power source. "

Barry Boling's Accessories

  • All credit goes to AJ (don't know your name) AND LAURENCE KEATING for THEIR clever design and great photos. Instead of creating separate toolpost blocks for boring and cutting, I chose to combine them into one. Note that the block also permits reversing the tools like AJ's. I used a blank arbor for the center post and a 1" thick plate for the tool holder. For those of you like me who don't have a bandsaw, get someone else to cut the block down for you. Otherwise, you'll still be at it. The only other thing I added was a threaded hole opposite the locking screw to be used when the cutters were reversed. This will keep the locking knob out of your way. By using 10-32 cap screws throughout, I only have to find one allen wrench when changing tools or the toolpost. THE DIMENSIONS CAME FROM LAURENCE'S DRAWING.
  • : A number of years ago, I found out about Nick Carter's website and the fact that he sold Taig products. I was just getting into clock repair and I had a ww watchmaker's lathe as well as my Taig. I liked the ww wire collets much better than what had come with the Taig, so when I saw that Taig was selling an adapter, I was interested. However, when I found that I'd need a new spindle, which (I think) would limit future use, I contacted the Taig folk and discussed it with one of them. He recommended an insert, which goes with the revised spindle. I asked him why a blank arbor couldn't be used to provide a seat for the ww collet and a drawbar added to hold the collet in. It seeme like a good enough idea that I decided to try it. The following photos show the result. I created the collet holder using a blank arbor, drilled it, reamed it to 8mm and bored a 20 degree entrance using the compound slide. I'll confess that I got a friend at work to bore out the drawbar from solid stock, something I couldn't do with just the Taig. Anyway, the results are as you see. This provides me with additional tool holding capabilities. Nick had encouraged me to post it to his website, but it took a while for me to get up the nerve to do it. This seems like a good place to show it.
  • which came with the Taig milling attachment. I got a small drill press type vise and milled mounting slots. It attaches to the T-slots in the milling attachment. It can be mounted either horizontally or vertically.

Michael Gamber's Taig CNC Mill and Enclosure

Mark Jenk's Taig CNC Mill Conversion

Syvain Sauve's Taig Lathe with Leadscrew Modification

  • The leadscrew, half-nut design and toolpost handle are from the website. Thanks to Mr Bentley. As for "irreversible" modifications done to the basic lathe, only 7 holes were drilled - 3 in the apron, 2 in the bed for the leadscrew bearing support and 2 in the headstock for the idler pulley shaft. The idler is supported by 2 ball bearings, the small pulley is custom built and the 3 gears are from a r/c car, one spur at leadscrew end and 2 pinion gears bored out to receive oilite bushings. It's a 3 speed system and it's a charm to operate! The index plate is from a reputed man that we should listen to religiously! Not pictured is a variable speed motor that was salvaged from a 12" wood lathe
  • The 4-40 screws under the bed are for straightening the rack gear
  • In the event of a carriage jam, this belt will slip preventing damage to the leadscrew or half-nut assy.
  • I managed to seize the carriage on 2-3 occasions from swarf getting caught under the carriage. These wipers corrected the problem completely. Never ever again will I operate my lathe without these!
  • , again from Mr. Bentley's idea.

Gene Martin's Taig Lathe conversion

  • He is almost done! "Several years ago, I bought a Taig lathe. The Taig was great for certain jobs, but it had its limits. So I decided to see if I could "improve" it. There were three areas I felt needed improvement: 1. Spindle speed too fast for large diameter turning, needed backgears. 2. Carriage feed too fast and course for milling and no measuring dial. 3. It did not have thread cutting capabilities nor power feed. I had a set of 20 pitch gear cutters and a 5/16-14 Acme tap from previous projects, so those became the design parameters for the lathe. "
  • The rack is not 64 pitch, but 20 teeth per inch. This is close to 64 pitch and 64 pitch gears work with the rack and pinion. I bought a 2nd pinion and a 36T gear at a local surplus store and bored it to .223 and bonded the gear to the pinion. I figured the rack could fit against the underside of the bed. I calculated the position of the new pinion so it would bind against the rack with about 0.010" minus clearance. I bored a 5/16" hole through the carriage and bonded in a bronze bushing that I had bored to 0.224". I made a collar that fit the original pinion and divided with 200 division with longer lines for every 5 and 10 marks. It has a screw with brass plug to be able to zero to the vertical line scribed on the front of the carriage. It now reads in 0.001" increments.
  • The rack was counterbored so there would be clearance with the carriage. See GMRack1 thru 3. To set the mesh of the pinion to the rack, I slid the carriage onto the bed and the rack. The rack was loose and at an angle. I moved the carriage forward until it bound up against the rack. From the angle that the rack made, I was able to do the trig and calculate how much interference there was. I then milled that amount + 0.002" off of the back of the rack.

  • The backgears were next. I wanted to extend the RPM range down with no overlap. Based on the diameters of the pulley and what was possible in 20 pitch, I settled on 13 tooth and 52 tooth back gears. The back gear speeds go from 34 to 340 RPM, and direct drive is 500 to 5000 RPM.
  • I took the pulley and carefully mounted it in a lathe and bored it 0.75" dia and 0.975 deep. I also bored the front of the pulley 1.25 dia 0.100 deep. I pressed in a bronze ring 0.110 thick for a thrust bearing. I then lightly pressed a 0.75 OD x 0.625 ID needle bearing in
  • that was pressed into the small end of the pulley with a 0.375" hole. The other end of the shaft was 0.500 dia and a ball bearing was pressed on
  • with cap head screws and pinned. A 52 tooth bull gear was mounted to the spindle shaft. The spindle is actually 17mm and the end is turned down to 5/8". The bull gear has a stepped hole 17mm on the spindle side and 0.625 on the outboard side. It slides onto the spindle and bottoms out on the step in the spindle. I keyed the gear to the shaft with a 5/16" woodrift key. The bull gear has a 28 tooth gear on the spindle side that the tumbler gears engage for the thread cutting.
  • There are two notches that are used for direct drive. For direct drive, the notches are lined up with threaded holes on the rim of the pulley and two cap head screws are inserted and those couple the bull gear to the pulley. It has bronze bushings pressed in the shaft and turns on a ¼" shaft that is mounted in a pair of excentric knobs that are used to engage or disengage the back gears.
  • to build. I cut 30 gears for this project. The cone of gears has 7 gears, 14T, 16T, 18T, 20T, 22T, 24T & 26T. With 1:1 gearing and the 14 TPI lead screw, it will cut 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, and 26 TPI. With a 1:2 step up, it will cut 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, & 13 TPI. In like fashion, with 2:1, 4:1, 8:1, & 16:1, reduction, it will cut 28 thru 416 TPI.

Terry Taylor's Taig CNC Mill and Projects

Tom Benedict's Taig Lathe and Milling Machine

  • Detail of Tom Benedict's
  • Detail of Tom Benedict's
  • Detail of all mounts and (note headstock wrench).
  • . The same dial indicators I put on in 2000 are still there, and so is the indexing kit I got from you long long ago. The newest features (aside from the rust on the 4-jaw) are the quick change toolpost (a WONDERFUL present from my wife) and the DC spindle motor, which as you can see isn't wired in. For what it's worth the new DC motor has almost twice the HP and half the weight as the old AC induction motor that used to live there. It's earmarked as a motor upgrade for my 10" shaper, when I finally finish THAT project.
  • Nothing really remarkable about it. It's a hinged board mounted to the baseboard of the lathe. On it you can see a set of holes up front where I stick the various wrenches used on the lathe, and a set of holes in back where the old Dayton 1/4 HP motor used to be mounted. The mount for the DC motor is basically some 1"x1/8" aluminum angle with holes milled in it.
  • Aside from the old-school dovetail Z ways, the big features are the DC spindle motor with the Taig pulleys mounted on it, the Kool Mist mist cooling system mounted toward the back, and the double nozzle flood cooling sytem mounted on the front of the spindle housing. The manifold for the flood coolant system is just a squared up block of aluminum I had that was just about the right size. I drilled it in the lathe and tapped it in a vise. I guess two other things worth noting are the plywood splash guards which I've had since I got my mill, and the breadboard I put on around 2002. This thing has simplified setups a LOT. I wish I'd had a surface plate when I made it (it took days and days to get both sides flat and parallel), but I'm glad I didn't wait.
  • the last big part I made on the old AC motor. It mounts on the motor post, the same as the 1/10 HP motor that came with the mill. It and the motor are only a little heavier than the old motor, and WAY lighter than the 1/4HP motor that was on the lathe, so I think the Z axis is going to be fine. The plate is 1/4" 6061, same as the mounting plate for the old motor. The plate is a little bigger than 5" in diameter, so I had to install a spacer block on the Y-axis to increase the usable range in order to make the part, and had to install 2" worth of spacer blocks between the Z-axis and the spindle motor to get the extra throat depth. It was vibration prone, but it did make the part. (I've since removed the Y-axis spacer block and 1" worth of spacers between the spindle and the Z-axis. MUCH less prone to vibration.)
  • The Taig mill can throw chips across a small shop, so I stuck these on shortly after I put the mill together. I had to chop some off the bottom to make them clear the sides of the coolant catch basin when I installed the flood cooling system. There's a third piece that hooks onto the front of the guards and hangs down to totally enclose the cutting tool on three sides. Chips and coolant fall into the catch basin and are returned to the coolant resevoir.


Jim Knighton's Taig Lathe

  • You've got lots of interesting photos of Taig tailstock mods. Maybe these are something a bit out of the ordinary. I gleaned many ideas from the photos on your site and applied them to build a custom tailstock for my long bed Sherline lathe. As you can see, the tailstock is based on the taig casting. The live center is a 1MT Axminster with interchangeable points (six of them) and is shown mounted in a matching 1MT arbor that fits in the tailstock in the same manner as does the taig live center

  • (April 8th, 2005)
  • I recieved from on you last Monday. It is assembled, working, and mounted in/on it's custom base/control box. From what I've seen on your site and elsewhere, this appears to be an out-of-the-ordinary setup. The Sherline motor and pulleys give the machine a "Sherline" feel, but there is absolutely nothing "Sherline" about the installation. The proportions of the setup may seem a bit strange, but the reasons for them will become evident as I install DRO scales, stepper motors, and the ubiquitous leadscrew with it's associated paraphenalia.

  • (April 19th, 2005)
  • illustrate the modifications to my lathe's carriage/cross slide. You will no doubt take note of the Sherline handwheel, the stepper motor, and the DRO scale. Hopefully you will find these of interest. For what it's worth, these modifications work extremely well. Mounting the stepper motor in this manner required that I replace the original feedscrew with the much longer one seen in the photo. This had the added benefit of additional travel. As built, the carriage travel is now 2.25".
  • is held by two fingers extending to the rear. Each finger is 1/4" CRS and has a round tennon on the rear end. These tenons are 3/16" diameter and 3/8" long. The mounting plate is 3/8" aluminum and has oversize holes and slots for adjustability. The mounting plate is secured to the fingers with small setscrews.
    Although at first glance this mounting arrangement may seem insubstantial and flimsy, it is anything but! This setup is very strong, rigid, and secure. Much of the strength comes from the tight fit between the tennons and the matching holes in the mounting plate. A sloppy fit here will jeapordize the whole setup, so take care on this point. I don't know about you, but I find it very difficult to get the final alignment just right without some provision for adjustability. Consequently, the stepper motor is mounted on a carrier plate (also 3/8" aluminum). The carrier plate has screw holes that match the slots in the mounting plate.
    The feedscrew is 1/4-20 LH threaded rod cut to length and with one end turned down to match the configuration of the original. I replaced the Taig handwheel with a short length of 1/4" CRS round stock drilled and tapped to match the Taig standard. If I recall correctly, that's 6-32. The Sherline handwheel fits on this stub shaft. I used a bit of locktite to ensure that the stub shaft doesn't come loose. The connector that joins the feedscrew with the stepper is machined from 5/8" CRS, threaded on one end to match the feedscrew and drilled/reamed 1/4" to match the stepper's output shaft. A setscrew holds it in position on the stepper end. The feedscrew is threaded into the connector and locked in place with a knurled jam nut and again with a bit of locktite (blue, medium strength). The DRO head is mounted on a small plate that is affixed to one of the fingers. The scale (bar) is held in place with the bracket shown in the photo.
    The bracket is joined to the cross slide table using a couple of small screws. I used some small metric screws/nuts I found at a local hobby shop. The nuts had to be filed/ground to fit into that tiny t-slot, but it was worth the effort. You will see in the photos that there is a slot in the mounting plate for the DRO scale to extend through it to the rear. The particular DRO scales I used were purchased from Little Machine Shop. I am using a 4" scale for the carriage/cross slide and I purchased a 8" scale for the long axis. The only modification to the Taig carriage was to mill two flats to provide a mounting surface for the fingers. As you know, the carriage casting is relatively crude with all sorts of strange draft angles, lumps, curves, bulges, etc. I used the dovetail edges as reference points and milled 1/4" wide flats, abt .025" deep, and drilled and tapped mounting holes. No other modifications were necessary. Since my lathe is to be fully CNC, I'm discarding the rack and pinion drive system in favor of a leadscrew. From my initial testing, I believe that these carriage modifications can be used with the rack and pinion drive. The Sherline handwheel makes things a bit tight, however.
  • , and because it demonstrates yet another unusual application of Taig components, here are photos of a miniature drill press I made last year. It is roughly the same size as a Sherline mill (I don't have a Taig mill for comparison but I suspect that they are about the same). Anyway, the photos pretty much speak for themselves. One of the photos is of test holes drilled in mild steel, aluminum and 303 stainless steel. Make no mistake, this is a competent little machine! The spindle is threaded 3/8-24, so there are a number of possible drill chucks that could be used. I don't see much point in using large drill bits on a machine this size, so I installed a 1/4" Jacobs chuck. With reduced shank drill bits, I've drilled up to 3/8" holes in aluminum and mild steel and 1/2" in wood. Spindle travel is approximately 1", which seems in keeping with the machine's size. Finding a suitable motor turned out to be the major challenge in it's construction. I finally found a 1/3 hp 90vdc permanent magnet motor. I found a dealer of Asian import mini lathes (woodturning) who was willing to order a "replacement" motor for my nonexistent machine. That, coupled with a Minarik controller provides power. The electronics package is located inside the heavy box that forms the base. The machine was designed from the beginning to have multiple interchangeable heads and tables. Although I've not done so yet, eventually, I will build additional heads and tables for this machine. I have a small laminate trimming router motor that I've tested with the Minarik controller for speed control, and it works great! I intend to make another head around this router motor and with a larger, rectangular table/fence system this machine should also serve as a nice, small overarm router. A dust collection setup is possible and since I'm dreadfully allergic to sawdust this is essential.
  • , a photo of me with the drill machine. For what it's worth, I am entirely self taught. I have no education, training or industry experience regarding this stuff. I never even saw a machine tool in the flesh until 1999 when I bought a "small" Jet mill/drill. I seem to have an natural affinity/gift for this stuff and I like building tools/machines, so I make up in ambition what I don't have in knowledge or experience.
    Since no one tells me what not to do I am unemcumbered with "shop wisdom" and free to invent my own solutions. The projects/photos demonstrate the at times unconventional nature of my solutions. I have a pretty good track record, though. I've far more successes than failures, and for the most part I think my stuff turns out looking good and working better than I have reason to expect. Part of the exercise, as far as I'm concerned, is that my stuff has to look good and work at least as well as anything I can buy, and better if possible. It may sound arrogant, but I think I'm getting there
  • The photos should be self explanatory. Since the long axis stepper is located inside the control box/base module, it won't be visible at all. Only the shaft extending through the end plate, along with the timing belt and pulley, will be visible. There will be a matching pulley on the end of the leadscrew, and another Sherline handwheel will be outboard of the pulley.
    By way of explanation, I absolutely abhor having a tangle of wires, cables, etc. in the vicinity of my machine tools and consequently I go to great lengths to ensure everything is neat, tidy, and preferably out of sight. The box is completely sealed and there is no possibility of swarf, etc. getting in and causing problems. You will note in the first photo that the cables to the stepper motors terminate inside the control box with attachment to DIN 5 bulkhead passthrough adapters. One of the external cables is visible in that photo and it runs from the bulkhead adapter to the CNC driver box. For testing I'm using a Sherline linear motion controller, and I can report complete success with this setup. The steppers (both of them) work extremely well and there isn't much noise (harmonics, etc.). All that the machine needs now is the leadscrew, and that is the current project. I'll let you know when it's done and provide additional photos at that time
  • The rack and pinion drive has been removed, replaced by the leadscrew. The photos show some of the construction details. Please note that no Taig parts were modified in any way, other than by their removal. This conversion is totally reversible. The photo of the stepper may be a bit confusing, since the stepper is actually located inside the control box. All that can be seen here is the lower timing pulley and the drive belt. This is a very clean installation, and easily done provided that some sort of box structure is used as a base. In spite of the unorthodox mounting, this setup works great! I've tested it thoroughly with the Sherline linear controller and this morning for a couple of hours I shuttled the table back and forth the whole length of the ways without any difficulty or trouble of any kind. With this, the lathe is now totally CNC capable. It is also still usable as a manual lathe, and the DROs are intended for that mode of operation. The long axis DRO is the next step in this project, and hopefully will be finished later this week.
  • for the most part. It holds an adapter that mates the leadscrew to the timing pulley and handwheel. The adapter is 3/8" diameter for about half it's length, and this end is threaded 1/4-20 LH. This end of the adapter rides in two ball bearings in the mounting block. The other end of the adapter is 1/4" diameter to match the bores of both the timing pulley and Sherline hand wheel. Both of these are secured with the usual setscrews.
  • I used mild steel rather than the usual brass because I didn't have brass on hand and couldn't think of any reason that steel wouldn't be suitable. If I have problems down the road, I'll make a new nut out of brass. The nut was machined from a single block of 3/4" sq stock. The nut itself is about 1/2" long - any longer and it won't fit into the space between the carriage and the bed. It has a centered long shaft that is the same diameter as the original handwheel/pinion shaft (.223") and fits into the eccentric tube. It is not secured in any way being free to find it's own centered position. Mounting in this way gives a small amount of lateral adjustability. Using the eccentric tube in this manner gives a small amount of vertical adjustability. These two features together make installation and alignment very easy.
    (April 29th, 2005)
  • that I modified for use on my "big" Sherline lathe. That machine has been modified almost to the point that is absurd to call it a "Sherline" anymore, but that's what it started as and still resembles (as long as you squint hard enough). Anyway, I needed a "real" compound slide so that I could set it to 29.5 degrees for threading. As you know, Sherline's compound is nicely made, but just about useless for threading and boring. Optimal threading needs the conpound to hold the cutting bit perpendicular to the workpiece, and then to feed it at the aforementioned angle. You can't get there with the Sherline compound. Also, it only holds 1/4" sq cutting tools. That's a problem when all your boring bars have round shanks, either 3/8" or larger. These two issues combined were the kiss of death as far as I was concerned. Examining the Taig compounds I used with the drill press I realized that here was something that would give me a "real" compound in the above sense of the word. The problem was getting it to fit. My Sherline uses both risers and a larger than standard cross slide table, both longer and thicker. Consequently, centerline height above the cross slide table is decidedly non-standard, not that this is a big deal for me. I also needed an adapter plate with a Taig t-slot to mount the compound and with hole spacing so I could mount it on the Sherline cross slide. Unfortunately, this arrangement put the unmodified Taig accessory's deck height too high for use with the TS Engineering QCTP. So, I milled the t-slots off the top of the Taig compound. The results are what is shown in the photos. Other Sherline users who use the standard 6" cross slide table can use this approach without removing the compound's t-slots as long as they pay attention to the thickness of the adapter plate. One other note... The biggest shortcoming of the TS Engineering QCTP is that the long 10-32 screw isn't stout enough to properly secure the QCTP to the Sherline's and Taig's table. It twists and turns under load on both machines. The screw simply doesn't generate enough clamping force, and if overtightened the t-slots can deform and/or cause other problems. Rene Teo acknowledged the issue in the Sherline forum and commented that this isn't a problem on larger machines that use an 8mm screw. I decided to take him at his word, and drilled out the QCTP's center insert to 5/16" (that's close enough to 8mm for me). I then drilled and tapped the cross slide table between the t-slots and close to the end so that I could use this much stronger screw. The results are outstanding! I've not had any problems whatsoever with twisting and turning. Anyway, the new cross slide table is everything I hoped. I can thread just like the big boys do, and boring on an angle with this setup is entirely uneventful. I hope you like this gadget, and also the way that Taig/Sherline parts and accessories can be used to advantage on machines from the other camp. Personally, I like living in both worlds and look at these machines as being complementary, not competition.
  • as well as some of your own end mill/boring head holders. You'll have to decide if these are worth including, but these photos show how I used some of these arbors. These photos show two boring heads that I use on my Sherline mills. The smaller of the two is 1.5" diameter with a straight 1/2" shank. It is mounted in one of your 1/2" end mill holders, modified to fit the Sherline spindle nose. The larger model is 2" diameter and threaded (I think) 7/8-20. I'm doing this from memory, so please forgive me if I get some of the details wrong. In any event it matches your boring head adapter. This adapter was also modified to fit the Sherline. In one of the photos you will see these two Criterion boring heads with the Sherline accessory for comparison. The Sherline is a near-useless toy compared to the larger boring heads, and in the end I gave it away. I got the idea to do set up my boring heads in this manner from your web site. I don't know if you still sell these adapters, but regardless I thought you might find these photos interesting. These are still other examples of the cross-fertilization between the Taig and Sherline communities.
  • , and so I machined the 5 1/4" one shown in these photos. It's hub is yet another of the ubiqutious Taig blank arbors I purchased from you last summer.
  • . From this, perhaps you will better understand my earlier comment about this being barely recognizable as a Sherline any more.
  • shown in the faceplate photos was incomplete at the time I took the photos. For reference/comparison, I'm including a photo of the finished gearbox. To the best of my knowledge, this is the only Sherline lathe anywhere that has a "quick change" threading gearbox. Power comes from the large main motor, and it works very well indeed even with the long axis stepper motor in place. The photo of the steady rest demonstrates that fact.
  • specifically to demonstrate the competency of the power threading setup/threading gearbox. It has telescoping fingers, and very nearly every part had to be threaded, either internally or externally, some with different sized threads on each end. This is admittedly a "show off" project and more difficult and challenging that it needed to be. There are a lot of much easier ways to make a steady rest. At present, I'm planning to make something very similar for the Taig lathe, but that is down the road a bit.
  • , It displays RPM very precisely, and also calculates and displays SFM. It is available from and as you can see it fits nicely on the Taig headstock.I built the bracketry so that the unit is self contained and can be easily swapped between headstocks. As you know, that is also in the works. The power cord connects to the ubiquitous wall wart. Eventually, the power supply will be inside the base/control box. I will be also installing a remote DRO display head (that also hasn't arrived yet) and I'll deal with the power supply issue when it is installed and I can better see how the cables need to run.

  • May 24th, 2005
  • , the Sherline leadscrew is installed, as is also the long axis DRO scale. The Sherline leadscrew is a major and worthwhile improvement over the 1/4-20 LH threaded rod. The problem I mentioned earlier with the original leadscrew seems to be under control. The leadscrew support at the headstock end is a permanent feature and allows me to use the lathe as. Threading, and other mods at the headstock end will rapidly come together, but that's a bit down the road. The leadscrew support is an interesting piece - it takes advantage of the shallow dovetail in the extrusion on each side of the base. I machined a shallow male dovetail to match, and the support is locked in place with a small setscrew. I can take it off and put it on at will, and there was no alteration of the base extrusion. By grinding the cone tip off the setscrew, it doesn't mar the base, either. Once again, the modifications shown are totally reversible with virtually no change to the parts supplied with the lathe kit. The DRO scales are as accurate as my Mitutoyo electronic calipers, but they are hard to read. As soon as it gets here, I will install a remote DRO display head that should solve this problem... Anyway, the project continues.
  • and running. The hardest part was getting the Taig pulley off the spindle, but you know all about that. In the photo you will see a Sherline chuck mounted on the Sherline ww adapter, and secured with the modified Taig drawbar. As I mentioned earlier, the Taig drawbar isn't usable since it was designed around the assumption that the owner would be using Taig pulleys. Since my setup doesn't do that, I had to "fix it". The solution is best seen in the other photo, where all of the indivudual parts are shown. The drawbar has been shortened just a bit and a new knob was added. The knob is interesting in that it was made using a curious combination of low and high tech approaches. The knob was machined from a piece of 2.25" aluminum round. The hub portion is 5/8" in diameter for about 3/4". That was a lot of material to remove, but using CNC it wasn't a big deal at all. The "knob" portion was machined using hand-held turning tools (woodturning round and square nose scrapers). After polishing, it was attached to the modified drawbar and the results are as you see in the photos. I also machined a short collar from a blank arbor to protect the threads when I'm using ww collets or one of the Sherline chucks. I should mention that the Sherline adapter we discussed a few days ago works great and since it is shaped like a ww collet the drawbar holds it securely in place. It will hole virtually any of my chucks or other accessories threaded for the Sherline spindle. This may not be a good solution for everyone, but it works for me. I have the chucks, I have the ww collets, and how I have the Taig spindle/drawbar that pulls it all together. In a way it's ironic that there should be a thread in the forum about 1/2" collets. A while back I adapted a commercial ER20 collet chuck for my Sherline lathe, and have been itching to set it up for the Taig. The setup shown in these photos allows me to do just that. If that isn't outrageous enough, I also have an ER40 collet chuck that I used this evening on the Sherline to hold the drawbar knob while hand-turning the face end. Also, a couple of years ago I made a simple 5C collet chuck for the Sherline. It, too, will now mount on the Taig. The 5C chuck doesn't see a lot of use now that I have the ER40, but I have some square collets and they are about the only way I know to hold relatively long lengths of square stock when it's necessary to machine the ends. These long, heavy chucks may be a bit much for the Sherline adapter shown in the photos. However, with the fat washer we discussed they will mount on the Taig's spindle nose and be just as secure and just as usable as they are on my Sherline lathes. Bed length is an issue, but there is still enough room for most of what I do provided that the tailstock isn't on the lathe at the time.
  • , I machined a new handwheel for the long axis. The Sherline handwheel worked OK, but when using the stepper it set up a horrendous racket. For what it's worth, these hand wheels do the same thing on my big Sherline lathe, and it's damned annoying. The problem is the loose plastic handle that vibrates like crazy. This isn't a problem when you're turning the wheel by hand, but when in CNC mode the noise was totally unacceptable. The new handwheel is 3" diameter, comfortable and easy to use, and best of all there isn't anything to vibrate, work loose, or make noise. Personally, I think it looks good as well.
  • , not machined from single billets. The shallow tapers were cut using the compound slide. The smooth round-overs were done with hand held turning tools. The brass finger knobs were also turned with the hand held tools. They were turned to match the design of the tailstock feed lever for an overall "family look". It, too, is was turned with hand held tools. There are a lot of "experts" who have apparently forgotten that using hand held tools was once the normal way of making smooth curves in metal. My copy of Hasluck's 1907 treatise "Metal Working" describes and illustrates hand held square and round nose scrapers as being the metalworking tools of choice for this kind of turning. In keeping with this practice, I use modern woodturning scrapers of this type, 1/2" wide and 1/4" thick. I use these same tools for woodturning, and they are good quality HSS tools from Robert Sorby and Hamlet. As you can see for yourself, they work quite well in both brass and aluminum. Finishing/polishing is with fine files and sandpaper, and the results are esthetically pleasing and comfortable on the hands. If you try this yourself, you will quickly discover that a sturdy tool rest is essential. While I haven't used the Taig rest, the Sherline rest proved to be way too weak and flimsy. I built my own in order to get the strength and rigidity required for this kind of turning. Also, you may find that 3 and 4 jaw chucks don't hold the work securely enough, especially in the case of long, thin work pieces. For this reason, and since I do a lot of this kind of work, I have a large assortment of collets of various types - WW, ER20, ER40, and 5C. This may seem like overkill, and perhaps it is. In my case, however, these collets are ideally suited to my personal mix of general purpose machining and turning with hand held tools. While turning with hand held tools certainly isn't rocket science or difficult, you need the right tools. It's not hard, but the technique can only be mastered with practice. I find it "fun" to confound the experts who contend that this kind of stuff can only be done with CNC.
  • Although loosely inspired by the Sherline, it is definately not a copy of anyone elses design. I went to considerable trouble to make it look like it belongs on a Taig while at the same time being sufficiently different. You will note it's resemblance to the Taig headstock. The t-slot arrangement matches the headstock, and is the same height. Other dimensions are ever so slightly smaller than the headstock. This is because I was constrained by the stock I had on hand. The ram has enough travel that clearance over the carriage is not an issue - there is abt 2.25" useful travel. The ram's socket is 0MT so that Sherline's extensive range of attachments and accessories can be used. One of the photos illustrates at least in part what Sherline accessories can be used with a 0MT ram. Please note that the Taig tailstock is available as well should it be needed. It seems ironic to me that my Sherline lathe sports a very nice and highly functional tailstock based on the Taig's lever feed casting. Now, my Taig is equipped with a handwheel feed tailstock inspired by the Sherline design. So which works better? They both work great.
  • include my "midget sumo" ER40 chuck as well as the two ER20 chucks. Also, these photos show the two ER20s in their final form - I did some cosmetic cleanup this evening before taking these photos. The ER40 chuck is rather special. It will fit on both lathe or mill and is usable on both. It's not overly large - 3.5" long with the closer nut in place and it weighs 2 lb 4 oz, about the same as the Taig independant 4 jaw chuck. If this is "too big", then so also is the Taig chuck - draw your own conclusions. It is as precise and accurate as the ER20s and personally I think it is a good match for our small lathes. I built it for my Sherline lathe, but it is usable on the Taig lathe as well. I even used it in a pinch this evening on my Sherline mill - it's that accurate. It is an ETM ER40 chuck with 1.25" diameter shank, originally 2.375" long. I cut the shank to just under 1" and machined an adapter from a 2.5" diameter Sherline threaded blank. As you can see, there was a lot of material to remove but it was worth it. The results look cosmetically as though it came from the ETM factory - it just has a larger diameter but shorter shank. In fact, it threads onto the Sherline spindle nose as though it was made for it. The same is true of the other (ER20) chucks as well. As noted earlier, this approach will work equally well on Sherline or Taig machines.
  • . It is about 1/4" longer and a few ounces lighter than the ER40. Like the other chucks, it was machined on and for my Sherline lathes. It will work just as well on the Taig with a few changes. Most notably, the drawbar/closer nut as shown in the photo are sized for the Sherline headstock. That and the registration area for the different spindle nose configuration need to be changed. Two of the photos show the "base" of the chuck. It is steel and carries the spindle threads. The chuck's body is aluminum and was machined with a pocket into which the base was inserted. This was a tight shrink fit, FWIW. After they were joined, the body was machined in place mounted on the lathe's spindle. Concentricity is thus ensured. Bore for the collets is 1.250" with a 10 degree taper. The drawbar has threads that engage on the interior threads in the bottom of the collets themselves. In principle, the chuck works just like milling collets on a Taig or Sherline mill, or R8 collets in a Bridgeport. When the closer nut is tightened, the collet is pulled straight back (there is an anti-rotation key in the bore) closing them tightly. Anyway, for those people who need/want square or hex collets and/or don't want to deal with the expense of an ER collet system, the 5C approach will work quite well on the lathe. Since closure range is smaller than with ER collets, you will need more of them, but 5C collets are readily available at modest cost (at least for the Asian imports). For me, the 5C chuck allows me to use the aforementioned hex and square collets - something not possible with the ER Series. For what it's worth, it works quite well and as you can see from the photos it's quite easily done. This isn't a difficult project as long as you can manage the issue of concentricity. Also, deep bores with large diameters can be a problem. The photos illustrate the strategy I used to solve it. If you examine the photos closely, you'll see that the steel base part actually has about 1/3 of the deep bore. The remainder is in the body piece. A nearly 4" deep bore, 1.250" diameter is pushing small lathes to their limit and maybe beyond. As I did it, however, the bore in the body only needs to be 2.850" deep, and that is about the limit of what I can do with a good quality 3/8" diameter solid carbide boring bar (Valenite, 5" long carbide inserts).

Kelly Shamash's Taig Lathe

April 8th, 2005

  • : "We made our indexing head using saw blade teeth as hole guides . The kids had a blast counting the teeth and fighting over the drill press lever- once everything was set up, of course. It came out ok, but not as well as I wanted, as the circles are not exactly concentric. They kind of do an orbit- evidend at the slowest speed. Not enough to affect placing of the pin, it just doesn't look quite right. Probably the most accurate way is to drill the holes with the plate mounted in position on the lathe. I just have to figure out how to do that."
  • as I felt that I had to tighten the screw with much more force than it was designed for in order to make it rigid on the lathe. So, I placed strips of high friction tape (from Lee Valley) on the bottom. It seems to help as I don't have to crank the screw in as hard.
  • with the ball bearings on the arms is a lathe- follower rest. the design was copied from an e-bay seller. It looks workable, but the big problem with it is it is mounted on the cross slide, so when the slide is cranked in to make a cut, the whole apparatus has to be readjusted. It would have been far better to design the follower to be mounted on the carriage instead.

Bob Burandt's Gap Bed Taig Lathe Modification

Frankie Flood's Projects

  • "Glad you liked the pizza cutters. I did in fact use both the Taig lathe and mill to make them." Aluminum, bronze, stainless steel, acrylic, ball bearings, enamel paint 3 ¾" x 8 ¼" x 1 ¼"
  • , Powder coated aluminum, stainless steel, nickel, sealed ball bearings 4" x 9 ½" x 1 ½"
  • , Powder coated aluminum, stainless steel, brass, ball bearings 4 ¼" x 10 ½" x 1 ½"
  • , Powder coated aluminum, stainless steel, sealed ball bearings 4 ½" x 8 ¾" x 2"
  • Powder coated aluminum, carbon fiber, stainless steel, sealed ball bearings 4 ¼" x 9" x 1 ½"

Gordon Reithmeier's Projects - Modified Taig Lathe.

  • for the Sherline Motor and speed controller. The unit is very compact and works well. The small lever with the black handle activates an horizontal clamp that slides the motor back, away from the lathe, when the lever is folded towards the lathe and provides tension on the main belt. The aluminum plate serves two purposes. It converts the motor and lathe into one integral unit and acts as a raising block to provides clearance for the threading banjo.
  • with adjustable locking handles. The lead screw is 1/4 X 20 LH thread and the new ram has a short O Morse Taper which is self ejecting and accepts Sherline tail stock accessories.
  • set up for power feed operations.
  • set up for threading operations.
  • uses a Sherline 1/4" X 20 LH leadscrew together with a Sherline Handwheel. The new Ram has a short 0 MT, the same as Sherline, and is self ejecting. Adjustable handles are used to lock the Ram and Tailstock to the bed. The longitudinal lead screw is a Sherline 3/8" X 20 LH together with an adjustable handwheel and modified nut.
  • have been removed to provide clearance for the leadscrew. In addition, some of the internal surfaces were machined to make them square with the crossslide dovetails. This was necessary to provide a square mounting surface for the leadscrew nut. The dovetails were removed from a Sherline Cross Slide and delrin strips with 45 degree dovetails were fabricated. The strips are attached to the cross slide using 4 - 40 SHCS. Adjusting screws on the right side provide for a limited amount of adjustment. In addition, it was necessary to drill a mounting hole in the carriage between the cross slide dovetails for the cross slide leadscrew nut - 1/4" X 20 RH, the same as the nut used with the Taig Top Slide. A Sherline leadscrew and adjustable handwheel were also used. The custom bearing block uses delrin shoulder washers for smooth operations. An Emco Compact 5 Top Slide has been fitted to the Sherline Cross Slide.
  • uses most of the components from a Power Feed attachment for the Emco Compact 5. The inch version of the Compact 5 uses a leadscrew with 16 tpi and a 20 tooth gear on the headstock spindle. I used a leadscrew with 20 tpi and to maintain the same ratio as the Compact 5, I used a 25 tooth gear on the Taig spindle. Consequently, the two fine feed rates and all of the inch and metric threads follow the same setup as the Compact 5. The black sleeve under the headstock activates a sliding hex sleeve to engage or disengage the leadscrew.
  • and Speed Control. Multi sheave pulleys are not required with a variable speed motor and a single sheave system with countershaft was designed. In addition, I need space on the spindle shaft to mount the 25 tooth gear. The lever with the black handle activates a horizontal clamp that when folded towards the lathe moves the motor assembly away from the lathe and provides tension on the main drive belt.

Harvey Redmon's Taig Lathe and Mill Projects

David Mincin's Taig Projects

  • are for a Radio Controlled motorcycle that I have. Actually bought it from Radio Shack, but it's built much better than your standard toy grade RC vehicle. Very similar to the 1/5 scale RC on road bikes that cost about 0-400 ready to run. I'm hoping to sell a few parts for this bike one day - you know when I can find some free time from the wife, 3 kids, and full time job...
  • steering
  • swingarm
  • sprockets

Larry Gitchell's Taig Milling Machine and Modifications

  • - Showing my 2 Palmgren vises. The smaller one on the right I bought shortly after I got my first Sherline milling machine in 1990. I got it specifically because it would just slide under the dovetail ways on the Z-axis of the Sherline. I realize drill press vises aren't regarded as particularly accurate for milling machine work, but for the scale of part that will fit in it, this vise has worked quite well. The bigger vise is there because I was had a job that required drilling and slotting some 3" square by 1/2" thick plates. The accuracy requirements were fairly loose, and it was much easier to set up the vise than to clamp the plates down on my Spillage Intl. grid plate.
  • - A wider view of the 2 vises. You may also notice a very un-Taig looking motor and speed control. That's a Sherline motor and headstock on my Taig X-Y-Z base! When I received the Taig mill, there was a problem with the spindle bore that wouldn't allow the drill chuck arbor to mount properly. While I was working with Nick and Taig to correct the issue, I dusted off and adapter block I had made years ago to mount a Sherline headstock on the overarm of a Atlas horizontal mill, and modified it to bolt onto the hole pattern on the Taig Z-axis carriage. Once it was on there, it worked so well I decided there was no reason to switch back - and I could continue using my 12 years accumulation of #1 Morse taper spindle tooling.
  • - On the left side of this picture is my first project made on the Taig mill, the 'dial-a-tool'. It's a 6" disk with holes and pegs to hold my spindle tooling, #1 Morse collets, and 3/8" end mill holder. In the middle of the picture is the Z-axis DRO scale I was in the process of mounting. At the top of the picture, a little bit too shiny for good photography, you can see my new Z-axis bearing housing. It keeps the leadscrew and the crank in the same position as the original, but only occupies 1/2" at the top of the column, thus gaining slightly over an inch of travel compared to the original. (The bottom of the block is counterbored to clear the gib screw adjuster.) Naturally, I drilled and tapped holes on the front and sides in case I needed to mount anything there later, and it turned out I needed holes on the back to mount the DRO bracket...
  • - Illustrating my rotating tool caddy. Front and center is the Spillage International Slab Cutter, transplanted to a Sherline #1 Morse taper adapter. Right behind the tool holder you can see the bracket I added to the column to hold the 1/4-20 and 5/16-24 drawbars for the Sherline spindle tooling. The Spillage International grid plate is visible on the machine table.
  • and the smaller Palmgren vise. The X-Axis lock has been changed to an adjustable handle from Reid Tool Supply.
  • with the Z-axis bearing housing removed to get measurements for the new bearing housing I machined.
  • and stretching the X-axis travel about as far as it can go!
  • . This is a bearing housing used on an overhead x-ray tube support. The weldment this housing fits into came through undersize, so I skimmed .02 off each face to gain some clearance.

Michael Dhabolt's Taig Lathe

  • : "It may not be the traditional way to do things, but.... I had a chief in the Navy that told me once 'always make sure you have the right tools, all in one place, before you start a job'. I should have got a bunch of stuff, including the riser blocks."
  • . It has worked out really well. Mounting it in the Stainless tray sure helps during cleanup. Motor mount worked out well, take out one hinge pin and the belt tension adjusting screw and it'll clamp down inside the tray.

Des Bromilow's Taig Lathe and Indexing Head

  • , show the matrix of holes which allows the plate to be mounted in different orientations, or offsets. Please ignore the mess on the lathe mount board. Notice the fixed steady laying in the mess.
  • , the countersunk holes are for the CSK screws which engage t-nuts in the slide, the other holes match locating pins in the dividing head body. Should I need to move the head to another lathe, I simply change/ replace the plate to suit the new machine, all other pieces are retained and reused.
  • , and fixing bolts which locate and secure the dividing head body to the mounting plate.
  • , and the plate drilling jig is fitted, expanding mandrel in the end of the spindle. The small sharpening stone at the top of the jig is holding the indexing point clear of the gear teeth.
  • , note detail on lathe clutch system, the jackshaft and motor slide in the wooden channel, to tighten and relax the small gates belt. The jackshaft system wil be replaced in the next few months, replacing the damaged jackshaft (see my email about my recent move).
  • , spindle is indexed via changewheels directly indexed at aft end of spindle. Plate is fitted on carrer, which is held in chuck on spindle. Allen key in chuck is for backlash control.
  • fitted on mandrel in spindle for direct indexing so plates can be drilled. With crest indexing for obtaining 40 points, off a 20t changewheel.
  • , including plates (ex HDD platters), and 24:1 worm gear salvaged out of a wrecked singer sewing machine
  • , including plates (ex HDD platters), and 24:1 worm gear salvaged out of a wrecked singer sewing machine
  • , including plates (ex HDD platters), and 24:1 worm gear salvaged out of a wrecked singer sewing machine
  • , and plate drilling jig (L shaped piece for indexing spindle to a changewheel held in spindle)
  • , fitted to divhead. Note the spindle is a reproduction of the taig spindle, with a 24t gear fitted behind the lock nuts.
  • , carries the worm, and the fit of the worm/wheel is adjusted by the curved slot. The sockethead screw visible on the RHS of the worm carrier is used to ajust the plate carrier's position.
  • , shows spigot which sector arms are rotated on.
  • .
  • , capturing sector arms, sitting on plate carrier. Chuck on divhead spindle
  • , the worm carrier can be rotated about it's mount at right angles to the spindle axis, so the head can be used in horizontal, or vertical modes.
  • , mounted on saddle, with chuck on divhead spindle

Paul Chamberlain's CNC Mill Enclosure

  • . I gave the normal bench top pressboard to the Lady of the House for a Lap Board, and mounted the maple top direct to the base frame. A chunk of 1"x12" and 1"x6" both cut to 26 1/2" made the lower shelf. I got the rest of the material locally at ACE - LaPine, Harbor Freight, Home Depot and Lowes (40 miles North in Bend). The economy 4'x8' white board I used for the sides was not only a fraction of the cost of traditional 2'x4' white marker board, but the guy at Lowes sliced the 4x8 sheet into four 2x4 sheets. I was going to use Lexan for the front door, but all the store had was 1/8"... too flexible to hold shape at the 25° angle. So, I got 1/4" Acrylic at about a third of the price of the Lexan. I used the 24"x36" maple top primarily due to real estate... my shop is 12'x30'. With the wide table version of the Taig Mill there was not enough room for the X-axis motor on the right. So I roto-zipped an oblong hole for the motor, and lined it with 3/8" split conduit and a flap of Harbor Freight Drawer liner material.
  • (about ). I built the ball joint nozzle holder using cannibalized parts from an indicator holder, and brass clamp I machined. Also shown is my addition of accordion fold chip guard for the Y-Z axes. Accordion fold material is from replacement parts for the Sieg Mini Mill
  • "I made the mounting post and plate. The post is notched on the headstock side to have a positive stop when mounted. I went with Sherline's 10,000 RPM Pulley Set ($$!). I only have two belt positions... 500 to 2100 RPM and 2000 to 10,000 RPM. I mounted a Tachulator directly to the Sherline Controller. I didn't get the SFM model, since I do all my calculations at the computer. The controller is mounted to the vertical aluminum angle with 3M double sticky foam tape. "
  • "I made this for a steam engine frame I'm working on. The drilled and tapped holes on the edges were done in a separate setup using a vise and stop. All other operations on the face and edges were done using this fixture. Even though the photos show tolling paths, the surfaces are smooth when running a fingernail across them... a testament to my Taig! Similar work on my Sieg MiniMill are nowhere near as smoothly finished. "
  • Here are a few pics of one I made on my manual machines. I'm trying for more curves on my enhancements... making it look less like "bar stock".
  • Here's the Kurt sent me. It seems to be tuned well for my 4th axis.
  • on a Belkin Nostromo n45 Dual Analog Joystick Gamepad (many other brands seem to work as well). I did not install the gamepad's configuration software.
  • I just use Mach3's "Keygrabber" utility. Here is my configured file for Keygrabber.
    Keygrabber establishes a "pipe" to Mach3, so launch Keygrabber first, then click its button to launch Mach3. Some "Hot-Keys" need to be assigned to buttons on Mach3 screens using Artsoft's "Screen4" utility. The Hot-Key list I used is My Keygrabber screenshots are

Lynn Livingston's Taig Mill Motor Mount and other Projects.

  • was to mill holes for the perimeter hold down screws and the cutout areas.
  • was to machine the motor mounting stud holes with pockets to seat the stud nuts flush with the underside of the mount. Also the pivot hole was milled. If you look closely at the pivot hole, you can see a G-code goof. The exit trajectory was set to incline plane instead of straight up and over. Funny, the wood proofs didn't have that artifact. Guess I messed with some code in the wrong place during one of my many, many code edits.
  • #4 brass wood screws. I used brass in case I had a goof in G-code and the cutter ran into any screws.
  • and the slot for the belt adjustment. Notice how close the cutter came to the screws, but didn't actually touch. I get lucky like that sometimes!
  • , showing a little different detail. I have found it hard to take pictures of shiny metal objects and get any kind of detail. I'm sure you can tell I'm not a machinist, and now you know I'm not a photographer either!
  • . If you're wondering what is holding the plate in during this process, I discovered that I had missed the machining depth by about .0007. In fact, if you look close, you'll see some places are milled all the way through. What was left was foil thin and was easy to pull the plate away. If I would have tried to do this intentionally, I would have never made it! But, this is the way to do it if you can.
  • , showing a little different detail
  • screwed to the sub-base. Notice there are very little mill marks left in the sub-base, even though some areas were cut all the way through. The clearance must have been oh-so close!
  • , snatched from Surplus Center. It's a ½ horsepower, 2650 rpm, 90VDC treadmill motor. The front shaft is a "way too big" 3/4". The shaft is also too long on both ends. We'll have to fix that before we can go any further in the conversion process.
  • and ready for measuring and marking.
  • after inspection and deburring.
  • we can test fit the plate and make sure it fits proper. And, luckily for me, it did!
  • the plate, but does the motor and plate combo fit the mill? With this kind of luck, maybe I should go play the lottery! Really, it's the result of lots of measuring and re-measuring, and making those
  • show a different motor and mount, although all else remains the same. I discovered after I had begun to use the motor in the prior pics that it just didn't have enough rpm to suit me, and I didn't want to start all over making new pulleys. Especially since I had the Argord motor handy. All I had to do was design and machine a bigger mount for the bigger motor, machine the new motor's shaft down, and mount; just like the other motor so all info is relevant and accurate.

Alan Coppen's Taig Lathe and Accessories.

  • which overcomes the problem of restricted tool travel when using the tailstock centre.
  • and Alan's indexing pin setup
  • to use in conjunction with the dividing plate, from drawings in a book by John Wilding FBHI. (Using the Small Lathe and its special applications for clockmaking and repairing) The rest was designed to fit the Toyo ML 210 lathe which does not have a solid bed like the Peatol(Taig). I therefore had to modify the design to suit, as you can see I machined two blocks to the profile of the lathe bed and by simply tightening them up on the allen screws to the base plate they lock in position. The rest is adjustable and uses a 3/8" BSF nut this means that one rotation of the collar will raise or lower the file by .05" and since the collar is engraved with 10 divisions (this was my first job with the dividing plate) moving the collar one increment will alter the height by .005"(five thou'). You can see the rest is set up to file true a winding square from a clock I am currently working on.
  • The graver rest is dead easy - The base is a piece of1/4" ms stock, 1 1/2" x .3/4" - the column is a piece of .3/4" round ms bar 1/2" high with a 3/8" step which is a press fit into the base. The column is reamed out to 1/4" dia then drilled and tapped to suit (mine has a 3mm grub screw to lock the T rest). The T rest is filed from a 7/8" length of 1/2" square ms with approx 5 degree rake on the face. A 1" length of 1/4" dia silver steel was used for the stem again this is a press fit plus some 'Loctite' into the rest. Finally a 2BA brass Cheese head screw was used plus a square nut made from 3/32" brass plate to secure rest to lathe cross slide. This design is from John Wildings excellent book previously mentioned which is published by RiteTime publishing which is in Borden Hampshire UK

James Tremel's Taig Mill and Projects

  • , I bought 3 nema 23 steppers from automation direct, designed and made the bipolar microstepping drives to make them move (see the attached photo that shows the completed Rev2 drives - the circuit boards were milled on my taig ) , built a microcontroller based "timing board" to output the precision step signals needed for fast, smooth motion, and developed a Windows program to convert Gcode into physical parts :). Making the CNC package has been a lot of fun - but an even greater amount of work - much more than I originally thought it was going to be! Anyway, I am quite pleased with the results. At the start of the project, I had one goal that I always kept in mind - SPEED. I'm not sure why. It was just a goal. To that end, I can reliably push the mill X & Y axis at 120 in/min when I want a good laugh (it always makes me laugh - of course, I have no practicle need for this!) I do frequently use the mill to prototype custom PCB boards, however, and here speed is very important to me. I often am routing out the traces at around 40 to 50 in/min - still requiring an hour or two to complete a design.

Richard Crook's Taig Lathe and Mill Modifications.

  • filed for clearance with the z-axis saddle.
  • (bolt shows angle of the hole, setscrew if for plugging it)
  • have been cut out to clear their respective gib adjusting screws, thus gaining another 1/4" of travel; this also prevents an axis jamb due to hitting an off-center stop & twisting something out of alignment, or from moving the gib.) The X mount was easy - needed only a round rasp/file & a little muscle.The Z required a bit more since I didn't want to mess with removing the screw & bearing from the block. I used a 1/2" drill with a 1/4" shank, mounted in a 12" drill extension (made for use with wood-boring spade bits.) The hole was then slightly enlarged by hand with a Dremel flex-shaft to get the necessary clearance (It got drilled slightly out of position.)
  • - I drilled the big hole with a stepped bit, then cut out the top center section with a hacksaw. The hole was then hand filed to clear the screw & the conical bearing flange on the screw mounting plate, so the spacer would sit flat and tight against the plate.) The stock 3/4" bolts were replaced with 1-1/2" (couldn't find 1-3/4" locally - I may replace them with threaded rods & nuts.)
  • The limit switch mounts are .135" thk aluminum plate for the X & Y axes (hand cut from scrap stock), & a piece of 3/4" steel angle for the Z switch. The Y-axis extension was made from a piece of 1" square steel tubing - I drilled the big hole with a stepped bit, then cut out the top center section with a hacksaw. The hole was then hand filed to clear the screw & the conical bearing flange on the screw mounting plate, so the spacer would sit flat and tight against the plate.) The stock 3/4" bolts were replaced with 1-1/2" (couldn't find 1-3/4" locally - I may replace them with threaded rods & nuts.) All the bolts are 10-32 stainless steel socket head cap screws (the only local source of 10-32 socket head screws is Home Depot, & they only have them in stainless); and the switches are from Radio Shack. The switches are from Radio Shack, and are NC momentary - the contacts open with only about .001" travel. (RS also has a NO version) They have .090" total button travel, allowing for a short overrun of the limits without damaging anything.
  • (easier to utilize for someone who just wants to add the switches.) These are the brackets in the home switch photos I sent a while back.

Asi Combelis Taig Mill and Projects

  • (for an F-16 simulator). It was done by painting a clear Acrylic with 6 layers of white paint, then two layers of black. The tricky part was to engrave only the black :-) I used my method described in my earlier post on the taigtools group.
  • Here is some information regards the panel: I used a simple PCB drill. Cost about 4$ each. The PCB cutter diameter is 0.0276". You can find good deals on EBay buying 50 PCB drills with deferent sizes for 20$ (I did). As for scales: the panel size is 5.66" on 2.17". The thickness of the bigger letters is about 0.05", and the smaller letters 0.03". I used a DXF file made in Solid works (Thanks to Mike Williams) then made the necessary adjustments so the cutter will "eat" the inside of each letter. Convert the DXF file to G-code, federate: 13 IPM and Plunge: 8IPM, print the G-code, and map it so you will know "Where" is each letter in the g-code. I did all kind of tests with deferent kind of paint. The best IMHO, is the ones made especially for plastic. I use Krylon brand (Satin color).although it dries after 15 minutes, you can paint all layers waiting only half an hour between each layer but I suggest you let it dry for a few days before you engrave. Make more then one panel; it takes some practice to control the technique. Do 6 layers of white, and 2 of black. A tooling plate is a must. I made mine. You should clamp the panel in 4 or 6 spots, Trying to level the panel as much as you can, While checking with the indicator until you can achieve accuracy level of 0.004" :-) It takes time but it is very important! Find the higher place on the panel. Usually there is some text on that place. Using your mapped g-code, point the cutter to the higher place and start lower the cutter until you find the surface level, then go lower at 0.001" depth (in your g-code). when the letters will appear, you found the higher spot of the panel. Make a hole run of the g-code. Some letter will be visible and some not. Each time go lower between 0.0003" to 0.001". A letter that was engraved properly, simply erase from the G-code or use M97 command (jump). It took me 4 hours to do the panel.

George Weightman's Taig Radius Turning Tool

  1. : It's just a neat little tool to turn larger half spheres (1" to 6" dia.). I have been using it to turn 3.90" diameter half spheres out of 15lb urethane sign foam and now my customer requires 5.00" diameter, thus the need for the headstock riser. (I will also, of course, have to machine a 1.00" spacer to go underneath the radius turning tool post to use with the headstock riser.) It is kind of unconventional in respect to the radius adjustment. A set of (6) 1/4-20 threaded holes spaced .500" apart are machined into the aluminum arm (which indicate 1" thru 6" diameter). You attach the tool post to one of the holes that corresponds to the diameter range you need. A 1/4-20 bolt attaches the tool post to the aluminum arm. Then you adjust the micrometer head to the .500 mark (far left position) for the initial turning, manually pushing the tool bit up against the micrometer head. (2) spring plungers keep side tension on the tool bit during the dial-in feeding of the tool bit. Advance the micrometer head to the exact dimension required as you progress with the turning. When the tool is in say the 4" position (as shown in the photo) and the micrometer head is dialed to the "0" position you have a perfect 4" dia. half sphere. The aluminum arm is attached with a shoulder bolt to the lathe bed. The tapped hole in the bed is exactly on centerline with the lathe headstock bore and flush (inline) with the outside face of the thick machined Taig faceplate. The only drawback is if you change tool bits you have to make a new master spacer (the chrome looking part that is on the rod that the micrometer head is mounted to).

Greg Miller's Taig Mill Modifications

Larry Snyder's Taig

  • : This is what happens when you stuff everything on a 34X52 tabletop. Front row is Taigs, back is drill press, surface plate, and grinder. The lathe has a DC motor, and there's one queued up for the mill. Everything is within reach of the shopvac hose. The washing machine is sitting right behind the shopvac. It's that tight in this corner of the basement. Lots of storage on shelves under the basement steps on the right. The chest is something I've been putting off for years, but finally succumbed to as they're local to me.
  • In spite of the drawings being flawed (I need to fix them!) he made a nice mount.
  • : "I used nuts with a setscrew through a flat for the collars. The motor pulley is sliced off the original. With this setup I can run the spindle up to 3300 rpm, way higher than I can imagine needing. The front ends of the bars float in the holes in the front angle. This is no big problem, as there's not really any front/back forces on them."
  • with an Omega D5 enlarger on it. The enlarger's looking for a home and the frame got a 24X24 top and a vise. Then it got a little press. Tonight it got a small shear that has plenty of clearance if the vise is opened up. I wonder if I could stick a little buffing rig on the empty corner...
  • . The left end of the block has an IR led, the right end an IR phototransistor. The current limiting resistor for the led and the load resistor for the phototransistor are buried in heatshrink (which is buried in a large blob of epoxy) on top of the block. The 60-hole wheel translates rpm to Hz, and an old Heathkit counter (ebay) gives me a direct readout.
  • website (or Yahoo group). Given my background, it's a natural for me. The site is as you might expect... Anyhow, here's a few shots of the first scale to be attached to the mill. The link is made with parts for an r/c helicopter, an idea from the shumatech group. enjoy,

Bob Swartzendruber's Taig Lathe, Metal Pens and Pencils

  • It's a different approach from anything I found on the web. I used Velcro so I could easily remove the DRO when it's not in use, and store it in a safer place.
  • . 3/4" dia Corian. Nothing special, but it works well.
  • I was always frustrated when trying to put the tool post on the cross slide. Getting the square nut aligned in the slot was difficult for me. Same thing with my milling adapter. So, I took a square nut and a 1/16th inch end mill and cut a slot on opposite sides of the nut. Cut the loop off a paper clip and super-glued it in the slots. Works like a charm. Now you know why I just ordered 10 square nuts from you. (grin) I'll replace this hardware store cheapy with a quality black square nut, but at least I've proved the idea works.
  • original with me of course. It's a standard slimline kit done in what's called the longwood style. The body is 6061 aluminum and the rubber grip comes from a Papermate pen.
  • Works really well now that everything is firmly attached. Velcro and double-sided tape just didn't work.
  • and the Corian block with brass pin for locking the wheel. Three holes in the block, one for each ring of holes in the wheel.
  • It's a 2" OD fender washer with the ID opened up to 3/4". The washer mounts to some 1 1/4" angle aluminum. No modification was made to the rotary tool, which comes from Grizzly.
  • . Overall length is 5 1/2 inches. Head, handle, and shaft are aluminum. The head is bored out and filled with lead birdshot. The paint is a bake on enamel, kind of a poor man's powder coat. The copper caps are to secure the birdshot, and to give the hammer softer faces.
  • It's a handheld tool post graver. So often I want to round over an edge or cut a cove, and as a kid I never could do circles on an Etch-A-Sketch. Well, I can't crank two knobs at once and get a round edge either. I took a stock tool post, milled a notch to get a flat spot at about 45 degrees, drilled a hole and tapped it 10-32. Threaded a piece of 3/16" brass rod, and turned a wooden handle. Now to turn "non-straight-line" shapes I just pull the center screw out of the tool post and screw in the handle. With my left hand on top of the tool post and my right hand on the handle, I can slide it around on the cross slide. Keeping it flat on the cross slide keeps the tool bit at the right height. Works great! Next I think I'll try making a straight edge that clamps to the cross slide t-slots and can be adjusted to a desired angle, as a quick and easy way to do tapers. Just slide the tool post along, using the straight edge as a guide for the flat front surface of the tool post.

Russ Hobgood's Taig Lathe with Extended Bed and Mill Mods.

  1. ; a cooling fan as it is hot and humid here and the tool deck set up for 1/4-20 studs.
  2. , the holes have been heli-coiled. I have a 1/4 x 1" plate in the back of the deck to hold things square and used shop made t-nuts and 1/4-20 x 3/4 SHCS to secure it.
  3. on the variable speed Delta drill press, the tach came from Little Machine Shop.
  4. The rebated c channel was left over from a project I worked on. I trimmed the extension bed to fit under the original bed and sealed what gap there was with Lab Metal. I installed a second rack gear to enable the carriage to run almot full length of the bed. Used a cotter pin at the tail stock end as a removable stop. I obtained a 18" x 30" flat oil pan from the local NAPA store, it is under the lathe bad, really good to catch scarf and lubricants.
  5. . 1/2" drill rod for the pivot rod and locking collars to keep the motor on line with the lathe head.
  6. l is an index plate that will allow me to make spur ears as well as bevel gears. Is is currently indexed in 10 degree segments from 0 - 90 with 45 and 75 degree settings.
  7. is based on the design in Guy Lautard's # 2 MBSR. It is mounted on my Delta 12" V/S drill press. The Taig mill and lathe were involved in this project.

Ray Ackley's CNC Mill pictures

Russell Waters Homebrew CNC Lathe

Ed Chesnut's Taig Lathe and Injection Molding

  • turns these plugs for the flight grips he manufactures "I use them for the occasional pilot who only wants 1 thumb activated switch in the top cap of the grip. "
  • "I don't believe I've seen evidence from any other Taig user of simply drilling out a short piece of Delrin to serve as a "spinner" handle on the cross slide wheel or the carriage wheel. I really LIKE 'em. They are cheeeeeeeep - and easy to make, require no modification to the original handwheels; plus they work great. The spinner handle on my carriage (no photo) was mfgd. to stay on (non-removeable). I drilled out the Delrin too small to fit on the handle, but appropriate to fit over the smaller OD section of the brass handle. Then I drilled out the ends to semi-carefully calculated depths to create the bearing surfaces of the spinner handle. Finally, I heated the Delrin "spinner" in boiling water and whopped it on the brass handle with a leather mallet. The resulting handle stays in place, but the taper of the smaller OD section of the brass handle and the edge of small ID section of the Delrin sometimes lightly "grab" each other, resulting in drag which simply isn't there on the removeable handle."
  • using "found" materials where possible and concepts from the Gingery book. My original plan called for using my heavy duty Wilton drill press to "grab" the injection molder piston and provide for well guided up/down travel of the piston. The error in my planning was that I forgot about the molten plastic fumes which would fill the house if I did injection molding operations on the drill press in the basement workshop. So I am now in the process of coming up with a satisfactory method of "powering" and guiding the piston while still using the machine "base" which is already complete. I'm pretty sure it will involve a low cost 1-ton arbor press. Then the injection molding operations will take place in the garage. This photo of injection molder during cool down after first hi-temp test of operation. It successfully melted and extruded ABS plastic -but simple hand pressure on the piston was not adequate to force molten plastic through the cold mold to the mold cavity - must have leverage! I did make a quite nice "curly-cue" of 1/8" diameter black ABS though!
  • to improve the arbor press ram action
  • manufactured on the Taig lathe for use in my home-built injection molding machine, and some "raw" parts produced from the mold. As soon as I get around to designing and building a system for positively holding the mold "closed" during the molding operation, the "raw" parts should come out as "finished" parts (no flash)
  • for power feed on the Taig lathe (and my "helpful, but not very accurate" dial graduations on the carriage feed wheel)
  • I produced on my Taig lathe.The precision which could be maintained resulted in very good “raw” parts out of the mold, ready for final “dressing” (parting off) on the Taig.
  • .

Christopher Smith's Taig Lathe

Dean Williams Taig Lathe

  • I've included a shot of it along with my 1937 Rolleicord Ib, one of my many classic cameras.
  • , so I followed the example of some of your other customers and re-mounted my lathe on a small 'work station'. A very handy suggestion, that drawer thing.
  • I thought I had found a small 1/5 hp motor to use, but that fell through. I really want to keep it small, so the larger motors other folks are using won't do. The motor works fine for brass and aluminum, but for steel it's all about taking a few thou at a time. Works well enough for the price, and I've seen new ones on ebay for about . It's a 100 watt motor. I'll find a variable speed motor to put on it in the next couple of months. I'm pretty good at scrounging.
  • Getting things just about how I need them on the lathe now. A few more small parts to make for my lead screw, and then should start making chips that don't involve lathe upgrades... (mainly camera parts). :)
  • The indexer is one I made when I had a Sherline, and I may have to do a little adapting to get things right. I think this will work though, as long as I batten down the hatches, (tighten all the gibs) before starting the cuts. I suppose it will be a week or two before I can start a short production run of a certain gear used in a Rollei 35 camera. A part no longer available, and I've seen a number of these popular little cameras put out of service for lack of a repair work-around.

David Jost's Taig Lathe

  • modified this solar car: In the case of the Solar Car picture I sent along the wheel hubs were modified. I took an existing wheel, removed the tire, filled and filled hub with casting plastic. The wheel was then put onto the Taig lathe and a "well" was bored into the new plastic and a new center hole was also bored.. Not a very exciting task..but very important to the project.
  • I can flatly say that without the inexpensive yet amazingly durable Taig I'd have passed on these projects. So roughly paid for itself right about the time I took it out of the box. Current project. I'm casting epoxy resin and turning parts. I've sold the concept but can't show the finished product until it's licensed and patented. More to come.

Jim Silkey's Taig Mill Modifications

  • Following my purchase of the Taig mill I ordered a 7x14 mini lathe from Micro-Mark along and their inexpensive DRO kit. The DRO kit contained a couple of digital displays that convert the amount of rotation of the hand wheels into linear distance of tool travel for 20 tpi threads. I liked the units so much that I ordered another kit and adapted the DROs to fit the x and y axis controls on the mill. Here are some pictures of the pieces that were made on the lathe and mill to adapt the displays.
  • : cylinder adapter, leadscrew extender, spacer, and keys.
  • showing how the pieces fit on the Taig. All the parts were made from aluminum. The hand crank, dial, and sleeve are removed from the leadscrew.
  • The leadscrew extender, which has internal threads, is then screwed on the shaft up to the spacer at which point the key slots line up and the key is inserted.
  • and secured with the setscrew located just below the battery compartment. This setscrew hole had to be drilled and tapped. The small setscrew securing the black display shaft to the leadscrew extender is then tightened.
  • and a key is inserted into the slot for the hand crank.
  • and I am quite happy not to have to keep track of the number of turns of the hand cranks. The displays add a noticeable resistance to the hand cranks so their operation takes a little more effort, but that isn't much of a drawback.

Thomas Burgin's Taig Mill and Projects

  • "Here's some pictures and a little info on milling G10 composite. Using the full travel of the 2019 table 12" x 5.5" and using 3 home/limit switches. Using diamond up-cut solid carbide router bits. Milling 1 or 2 (1/16") sheets of G10 at a time. The router bits last about 45 to 60 min of cutting time. This is with no vacuum or air on the tooling. Wear a dust mask, or cartrig mask, cleaning up after each time. Wipe or clean all the gibs about once a week or less and apply new way oil. G10 is a glass woven fiber composite that you don't want to breathe. Using pre cut fixture plate with tapped holes underneith to fasten the G10 sheets down. Also fastening the end result pieces. You can put any info up you like. I don't want to give away too much information, but this should help people out if they can't afford a router setup. "
  • when cutting the G10. Might want to mention that with the G10 info. G10 is nasty stuff! Heres a older pic of my setup back in August or so. Spent about 0 or so worth of material to make my enclosure. Took about 40 hours. I need to get a vacuum hose in there and some rubber seals around the doors. If you need any more info let me know. Oh yeah thats 1/8" plexy glass from ace hardware. And the structure is 2" x 2" wood. It's actually 1.5" square but they call it 2 by 2's "
  • made on the Taig CNC mill.
  • Moved up 4 more inches then the max.  Had to do some work on the end of some parts.  This is problably not good for long term use though.  I think I will make a better easier way of doing this for when I need the extra travel."


Edward Slatt's CNC Taig Mill Projects

George Plezia's Taig CNC mill

  • made a vise chip pan for his Taig mill, "Check out my new enclosure. What a deal - "
  • There is alot more detail then I can get a picture of but nemo is approx. 3/4" high x 13/16" wide & almost 1/2" tall on a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" pc. of ren wood.
  • is on a 2" x 2" pc. of ren wood & is approx.1 1/2" dia. x 3/4" tall with a 3/8" dp. recess in the middle & a tapered core in the center of that.
  • for his Taig CNC ready mill z-axis. The weight is 13.6 lbs.

  • . The last pic. is the completed part all polished up & ready to be black anodized & the others are self explanatory. I'm using a 3/32" diameter flat bottom end mill @ .05" DOC, 10,600 RPM to contour the maltese cross area.
  • #
  • that is totally done on a Taig mill.

Lee Nichols Taig Cue Lathe

Peter Zicha's Taig Lathe

Stephen Campbell's Projects and Drawings

Mark Peterse Taig (Grimberg, Netherlands Import) Lathe

  • SCA 3 jaw, digital readout, homemade spinning knobs on supports, 13mm drillhead, modified drill lever and the bed supported under the tailstock
  • because of the DC motor, the motor can turn both ways and there are some resistors so in combination with the switch it starts slower (switch in position1) before switching to full speed (switch position2)
  • , home made live centers and so on
  • in the shop, grinders were adaptors for the stones are made on the Taig lathe

Lou Somers Taig Lathe and Home Made Accessories

  • The jury is still out on it.
  • is used for low speed operation. A By my calculations I get 45, 80, 120, 180, 275, and 450 rpm.
  • drive belts in place.
  • . This is simply a speed nut from Lee Valley Tools that I milled off at about a 15 degree angle on the leading edge. my theory was that the leading edge of nut would bear against the carriage and force nut downward keeping threads engaged. Works like a top. Outrigger on inside of nut has a ball bearing that rides on the underside of lathe bed and keeps nut from rotating on lead screw. Once again, works like a top.
  • Don't know what it's off of. Corner bracket for a screen door serves as a registration.
  • and put on inboard side of carriage for left to right cutting if motor was reversible.
  • motor allows for access to set screw for changing chucks for different size mills
  • gives double y axis capability.
  • could be removed for more room
  • Works great for milling flats when used in conjunction with your 40-50-60 index plate.
  • . Once again, when using your 40-50-60 plate I can drill and tap whatever number of holes anywhere from center to swing limit of lathe. Gears are from Atlas 618. You'll notice the wires are not hooked up. That's because it is only 1/150 hp and old enough to draw a pension and it just doesn't have enough power for drilling. I'm in the process of mounting something beefier. The compound gear can be released by loosening a set screw so chuck will turn free for tapping. Right next to set screw on chuck shaft you'll see a hole. There are three drilled at 120 degrees for using a tommy bar when tapping.
  • of 1/2 inch pvc that I hung a piece of fiberglass screen on to stop chips. Works great. Chips that don't stick to screen fall in a neat pile on the floor.
  • . Frame is free standing but I may rejigger it and mount it right to bench. Originally I hung an old blanket from the floor joists and it worked perfect but it was getting soaked with oil and I was antsy about a fire so I went with fiberglass.
  • I made to put 1/2 inch chuck on tail stock.
  • Flats were milled with Dremel.
  • Big mistake. At high speeds it was a steady shower of chips ricocheting right in my face. 
  • . Although my original set up worked ok the motor had to be unbolted to remove the carriage. I changed Dean's leadscrew by haveing extra length on the tailstock end. This allowed me to attach a coupler for a piece of automobile speedometer cable. The advantage to the speedo cable is that nothing needs to be lined up with nothing. You could mount the motor to the wall on the other side of the room and it would still drive the leadscrew.
  • that is used on the tailstock side of the carriage. It's simply a base from a Lee Valley woodworking toolrest. It can be removed or installed with the turn of a thumbscrew.
  • . when I get tired of standing I set it on a drywall bucket and sit down. Drive cable for leadscrew is stuck on a screw to keep it out of the way when not in use.
  •   At left lower corner is a temporary drive link for my attempt at Keith Brooke's thread cutting rig. I used 3/8 x 24 tap as a leader. Didn't want to spend too much time on it till I was sure it would work. Will rework as time permits.
  •   Chuck is a 3" from Little Machine Shop.  I have a 4" from LMS on my Atlas 618. Both are money well spent

  • Rather than make another drive rod plate I drilled and tapped the drive rod for a 10 x 24 screw
  • Tightened it til there was just the slightest play to allow rod to move latterally due to misalignment. Seems to work just fine.
  • .
  • . Although this set up looks like Beethoven's last movement and Keith would probably throttle me for the way I've chopped up his idea, it works perfectly.
  •   As a detente I used  a block of  aluminum set against  the motor pulley to hold it square and simply moved it back and forth as I rotated the blade to the next tooth. Worked great. All re cuts were dead on.
  • , each one being .0005. I then reset the stop at .250 and recut every other division, each being .001. I then reset the stop at .375 and recut every tenth division, each being .005. Finally I removed the stop and made a full cut at every twentith division, each being .010.
  • As you can see there is no cursor on it. I graduated it simply as an exercise to see if I could do it. When nessecary I use an indicator on the carriage.
  • but if you should break or wear out a short belt snatch one of your wife's elastic hair ties. They're not a perfect solution but if you take light cuts they can help keep a project moving till you get a new belt.
  • I've tinkering with if you would care to post them.  Previous to this I stacked feeler gauge blades to shim the quill down. It worked but it was an ordeal at times. This set up eliminates all the aggravation. It uses an infeed table from a 4" wood jointer. Depth of cut is controled by an elevation screw. The advantage to this rig is that the quill stays in the home position where it is the most stable. Pictures show an action shot, table down, table up, and the elevation screw. This table raises about 1/2". Scince it's on a pivot it also moves to the right about 5/8" at full elevation makeing it best to do grooves and shoulders on the x axis.

Rick Voegelin's Taig Lathe and Accessories

  • I've added dial indicators for the carriage, tailstock, and cross-slide. I've also made an indicator mount that bolts to the headstock for dialing in a four-jaw chuck, installed a TSE quick-change tool post, extended the tailstock lever, and replaced the Allen locking screws with ratcheting levers. All of these mods have made machining much more convenient and precise.
  • using the carriage stop mount bar, but I wanted to retain the carriage stop feature and mount the 2-inch travel indicator more securely. My solution was to mount the indicator directly on the bottom of the headstock.
  • for 10-32 screws, being careful to avoid the dovetail that engages the lathe bed. The mounting lug on the indicator had to be milled for clearance. Multiple mounting holes allow me to reposition the indicator, although I usually work within an inch of the chuck, so seldom have to move the indicator. An assortment of dial indicator extensions is handy if I need to extend the indicator when the carriage is farther away from the headstock.
  • when using a WW headstock and collets. The mount is machined to provide clearance for the 10-32 carriage stop locking screw.
  • but got tired of trying to center the workpiece in the jaws with a magnetic dial indicator stand. This L-shaped aluminum bracket attaches to the T-slot on top of the headstock. The bracket is adjustable to position the indicator with either a collet or a chuck. I also made a spacer that raises the indicator mount to clear the chuck adjusting screws when I am turning a large diameter workpiece.
  • is a simple L-shaped piece of drill rod that mounts in the tailstock chuck. I made a mount for a 1/2" x .0005" dial indicator from aluminum stock; the thumbscrew makes it easy to install and adjust the indicator.
  • that's been bent to a right angle and tightened in the tailstock chuck.
  • from the spindle. It's a piece of square aluminum stock with holes drilled for a short piece of drill rod. Simple and works great!
  • I use it frequently to countergrind electric motor armatures and tires for my slot cars. It was inspired by Tom Benedict, who frequently posts on the Yahoo Taig group. I made a mount to hold a ball bearing handpiece for a Foredom flexshaft grinder on the Taig cross-slide.
  • (You know this is a setup shot because my workbench is never this clean!) I hang the Foredom grinder on a mount made from a heavy-duty steel shelving bracket that clamps to the workbench. It's proven be a reasonably sturdy and portable fixture.
  • This is the key to countergrinding. At the point of contact between the workpiece and the grinding stone, the workpiece is rotating "down" and the stone is rotating "up." With a Dremel or similar grinder that can't be reversed, the stone is rotating "down" at the point of contact with the workpiece. At first I just hung the grinder on a groove in the shelf bracket, but after it nearly fell off one day, I added a hook to the bracket to hold the grinder securely.
  • that grasps the edge of the workbench.
  • I dress the grinding wheel with a diamond point. This fixture is made from round aluminum bar and holds the dressing point in a three-jaw chuck. The only downside of grinding is that it leaves abrasive dust on the ways, so I clean and oil the lathe afterward.
  • I replaced the Allen locking screws with 10-32 ratcheting handles from McMaster-Carr, and installed a 2-inch travel dial indicator on the tailstock slide. The uncomfortable steel tailstock lever was extended with square aluminum stock.
  • with a 1-inch dial indicator; it's mounted low enough to clear a compound slide in most setups. I've become a fan of the TSE quick-change tool post because it allows me to go from turning to a cut-off blade in seconds.

Derrick Kortvejesi's Taig Lathe and Airgun-Smithing Projects

  1. (Derrick's headstock is bored out to fit the Crosman barrel diameter).
  2. I added a foot switch, too. Step on, step off. Figured it's easier to run away when things go all wrong. The start of a new bolt.
  3. I wanted a longer bolt probe. The rest is pretty much exactly to stock dimensions. I found the angles by chucking up a stock bolt then adjusting a right hand knife until it was flush. I'm sure there are other ways, but this seemed pretty efficient. I did cut it off with a hacksaw then faced it to the correct length. Had to do some shimming to get a cut w/no pip. Followed the book you sent as best I could. It makes more and more sense as I do some work then read about technique. At first, it was another language. Didn't think ahead and realize that I'd have to make tools to cut the o-ring grooves on the bolts. Same with the crowning tool I ground.
  4. Cut off a chunk w/ the hacksaw and chucked it up in the 3 jaw. Squared the end and turned it down for the 8-32 threads to fit into the bolt.
  5. to turn down to fit into the slot in the breech.
  6. Left it just barely shy of 1/4" long for the thread depth into the bolt. Cut a flat face at the end of the thread to make a seat.
  7. Cut 2 grooves for grip and/or o-rings. Emery cloth just to give contrast for the pic.
  8. So shiny it looks hard chromed.
  9. Fit was on the money.
  10. Partially disassembled 22XX to show the end cap.
  11. The second flange, oddly enough is exactly where I need to make the base of the turning.
  12. Turning down the end.
  13. to locate the center hole already in the end cap. Needed to make it larger in dia to fit the hammer spring into.
  14. and the stock mounted
  15. . Still need to drill and tap the one on the rt. It's 303 stainless.
  16. Looks like a honey dipper. Feels good in use. Just messing around w/the lathe.
  17. . It has about 0.001" of run out. It'll be better than fine for anything I ever make.
  18. . It's an old Davis A-6 tool steel. It's got a flat for the setscrew on the back side.
  19. I wanted to make a slitting saw arbor
  20. held the arbor in a set of aluminum tube blocks for 1" (amazing the stuff I have lying around for not being a machinist) and made some passes to create wrench flats. Did one side, flipped the blocks over w/o disturbing the arbor position and made some more passes. I quit when it looked even.
  21. The thread is 5/16 x 16. Drilled the arbor, threaded and reamed the 3/8" hole for the shoulder.
  22. that was about 1X1X2" to square up and face all the sides. You already see my problem. The 1/2-13 set screws on the long ends won't clear the bed. Sure, I could have reversed all the jaws and used the outer steps, but this thing is heavy and I wanted more surface contact against the face of the chuck.
  23. I made some aluminum end stops. Hardware is standard stuff for the Taig. 10-32 bolts and square nuts. Counter bored for the bolt heads.
  24. The steel block can't go anywhere. The stops can, of course, also be used in any of the Taig t-slots as travel limiters or whatever.
  25. without damaging any of the keyway slots for the stock jaws. Really cool how the Taig stuff is all modular.
  26. I asked him if he had any old bar stock lying around. He gave me a beat up 1X1 about 14" long. Looks like they used it to prop the back door open for about 13 or 14 years. Perfect! I used a reciprocating saw and cut some pieces off. Each about 2-1/8" long. Chucked them into the 4-jaw as you saw previously and faced all six sides. Got them as smooth as I could on the lathe then went to 100 grit paper on a plate of glass. Went progressively finer. Have one finished. Still need to drill and sand on the other 2. Drilled, reamed, and counterbored for 10-32's spaced 1" apart. Used an end mill in the drill press to finish the counterbores for the bolt heads. Overkill. Probably, but I'm learning things by doing this kind of stuff.
  27. on top of a sheet of 1000 grit. It's got a nice even matte finish. I took the edges/corners down a bit, but they will still cut you if you're foolish. The block fits any Taig cross slide t-slot. It's a heavy duty stop block. It may be a jaw for a vise in the future. We'll see what shakes out. It would have been nice to have this come out as a gauge block as well, but the stock was just too rough. That circular reference mark on the bottom is the only machining mark left. I like it. It'll stay. It says, somebody turned me.
  28. ; I never realized you can turn a rectangle on a lathe.
  29. Likely, it won't work with this knife as the angles look wrong. I just used it for size.
  30. to hold a small lathe chuck in a vise. Advantage? Maybe perform an operation w/o losing center in the jaws? Maybe as a work holder when it would best hold the piece. Anyway, I'm on a work holding tool kick lately. Cut and faced a block of 1" bar stock. Length totally unimportant. Long enough stub to fit in a vise. Couldn't find a piece of threaded 3/4"x16 rod. In fact, could only find grade 8 bolts in that size locally. OK. Bought a 2" long one, cut the head off w/a hacksaw. Faced the end and turned down about 1" of an end to 0.500". Drilled, then bored the block to 0.501+. Very slight countersink. Cross drilled block and tapped for a 10-32 setscrew. Sanded block and broke the edges. Cold blued.
  31. . Was good practice. Smooth and clean. It hisses air when the stud is slid into the hole. Burps if oiled.
  32. from our Rocky River store. I wanted to give him an idea of the work involved. The old axle. co-worker stripped off the end threads rendering his front wheel useless. Probably not that fuzzy in real life...
  33. , (That's 5/8") I think it's 4140. Anyway, I chucked it up in the lathe and faced the end. This is considered severe overhang.
  34. and turned down approx 1" for a M14 X 1mm external thread.
  35. Blocked up the end with a small machinist's vise and a 1-2-3 block to get a 90 degree angle before starting the thread. Not shown, I used the tail stock (spring loaded!) to push this kludge (your word) into the stock while turning with a strap wrench. Worked like a damn dream. That's a 1-1/2" die.
  36. on one side and re-chucked in the scrolling 3-jaw. Spotted with a center drill and countersunk.
  37. (still too much deflection) and used that countersink with the dead center from the tail stock attachment. (Memo to Derrick: order a live center sometime) Greased the heck out of the dead center w/ molybdneum disulphide grease. Please don't score the center... Turned down that 0.625" center diameter to 0.569" for weight reduction.
  38. . No worries. Turned down the fresh end for another M14 external thread. Again, cut a taper to act as a guide for the die. While still in situ, through drilled with ever increasing bit diameters. Nick ,There was a reason I grabbed the M14 thread and keyed off of it--the threads needed to be on the same center. I would've used the 4-jaw but it would've screwed up the fine threads. I did take a passing cut on the 3-jaw before starting and when I flipped ends to keep it as true as possible. A larger lathe that let me pass the axle through the headstock would've save me some huge time. 14mm just don't be fittin'. Any advice here for the future would be much appreciated!
  39. Good cutting. Lots of Tapmagic oil.
  40. . Break out the big guns. (from Nick!) I think bits like this used to be called "bell hanger's bits". These got me through, then I opened the bore up even more to 0.392". Again, weight reduction. After drilling out, I mimicked the first threading set up, mounted up the die and cut threads. Faced the end off to 3.699" OAL. Polished on the buffer and treated with selenium dioxide to blacken.
  41. Loctite 242 to hold the short threaded side. Will adjust on the non-drive side upon installation.
  42. Body is .500 aluminum. Drilled and tapped to 1/4"-20. Replaceable tip is 304 stainless steel. Hand filed the wrench flats for a 10mm wrench. Brass washer as a register for the replaceable steel tip. Tip was cut after it was installed. I've since cross drilled and slotted. I'll likely make another out of an oil hardening steel when a piece of material presents itself.
  43. on it's single (poorly designed) attachment to the cross slide as I advance the compound slide toward the work. Has the incredibly annoying tendency to wreck the most careful of set ups. Bad. By recessing the gib adjustment set screws, I can use the original tool post in the extra t-slot on the cross slide to clamp down the unsupported rear edge of the base of the compound. The slide still advances when the hand wheel is turned, but it no longer rocks on the single, front clamp.
  44. for the compound gibs, they hit the clamp as you try to advance the compound. I didn't bother with the front set screw as it was outside of the range of travel to hit the clamp.
  45. cobbled together from a few homemade pieces and some pieces from a magnetic base mount.
  46. that you posted the other day enough to make one.  Made it from 0.750" square stock and milled it down to fit in the Taig tool post.  I think I'm going to mill down the opposite side so it can be flipped over and work in a .500 QC tool post holder for the Eldorao 3-in-1, too.  The matte finish is glass bead. 

Toni Markus Taig Lathe and Mill

  1. : "Here are a few pictures showing how I installed digital Calipers for all axis. These are just cheap calipers from HF, but have data ports just in case I later want to build a display. Right now I'm very happy with them the way they are. X-axes slider is just glued and has been holding ok with no slipping or sliding. A double sided tape did not work."
  2. that my hobby machinist friend made for me. Shaft is 3/8" and it holds a blade with 1" arbor.
  3. are the variable speed motors. My lathe has had this motor for over a year now. Works excellent and makes the lathe do things I could not do with it before. I can now run the lathe as slow as I want to. Also it will run faster than I have needed it to run for any of my projects. The range is from 0 to around 5Krpm.
  4. with a v-slot on it. There is also a set screw that holds it tight. The shaft is around 17mm. No problems so far.
  5. It does not have any hours yet but I expect it to run the same as the lathe.
  6. are something I use a lot too. The smaller one holds my flex shaft Dremel tool. The other has two uses. One end holds a boring bar. The other end helps me to drill holes to round stock(from the side).
  7. is just to prevent the ships from getting to the mill stepper motor coupling.
  8. is something I like. It prevents the ships from flying up. Also it allows me to put my face very close to the work. I must be getting blind or my work must be getting smaller and smaller?
  10. to make a boring bar. Drill and ream a mounting hole for the toolbit into a tool holder. Use 4-40 set screws from the side to hold the toolbit in place.
  11. I took a blank with the 3/4 x 16 thread and cut a M22x1.5 thread on the other end. This was done with the CNC mill using a macro that MACH 3 has. Next cut the 8 deg taper for the ER-16 collets
  12. Great for set up work both for the lathe and the mill. This is a very practical size for these machines.

Stephen Ellacott's Taig Projects

  • sent a few pictures of "the tachometer I made that Shad was describing in the Taig group."
  • with a nice ridged finish for grip (and lots and lots of brass knobs!)."
  • "...big floppy swarf magnets....there, I've said it. So I'm working on motorizing the carriage traverse to try to provide the same smooth finish as a lead screw. Here are some shots of the prototype version that I thought you might enjoy. The regular traversing handle and pinion has been replaced with the geared pinion and a block with the Geared Motor (5RPM) and drive gear attached."
  • on the front of the carriage and is snugged against the pinion gear (whatever size you want) and tightened in place. I used two 12 tooth 24 pitch Acetal gears for the prototype - probably brass for the real thing.
  • controls the carriage with three buttons- Forward, Stop and Reverse.  You must hit Stop before changing direction. I'll package this up in a 1.5" x 3" swarf proof project box when I'm done. It draws about 70mA cutting .0010" in brass at a 3 inch/minute traverse with the one-to-one gear ratio (too fast, but it was easier to layout the prototype using like gears). The goal is to be able to loosen one thumb screw, slide the motor block to the left and have manual traverse back. Total cost - less than (real dollars). The final pinion gear may just be the stock handle with gears cut around the perimeter....Hmmm...may have to order one..
  • of it installed using dovetail clamping (works great!) with the body cut down to size.
  • of the back of the block. Just loosen the 10-32 set screw and it slides off under the cross-slide knob.
  • mounted with a simple indent pin arrangement on the top of the tailstock - works great!  Thanks! I made a simple jig to help remove the headstock pulley - 6 1/2" of 5/16" steel rod with a counter bore in one end to fit the point of the gear puller and turned down to 1/4" for a length of 1" at the other end. It is inserted through the headstock with the 3 jaw chuck mounted and the jaws tightened on the reduced part of the rod.  The gear puller can't push the shaft through the 3 jaw because of the lip of the cut.  I also made a simple spindle threaded 1/4-20 at one end and used it and a washer to hold the pulley on top of the vise while I drilled and tapped the three holes.  The plate spins very well without any wobble at all.
    The indent pin is 5/32" in diameter and tapered to ensure it centers every hole in the indexing plate.  It doesn't go all the way through the plate and has a slightly rough finish to stop it from dropping out.  It is stored in the top right of the indent pin plate when not in use (see the second picture of Dean's center).
    In the first picture you can also see a small steel plate I use as a magnetic mount point for my test indicator on top of the headstock and the most amazing piece of brass swarf! After a year of dodging sharp little brass needles I finally found the recipe for turning brass!  Zero top rake, 7 degree front/side rake and a 20 thou deep cut at 2100 RPM for a 1/4" rod.  I was enjoying turning down the brass pin so much I had to scrap the first one!
  • (well worth the effort to make!) which allows you to use it on a drill press without a vise by clamping through the center hole or slots on the table.  Much easier to reposition!  I also use a hard felt wheel and honing compound in the chuck with the jig to get a "scary sharp" edge on my cutters.
  • The basic clamp design is on the Little Machine Shop web site, I just scaled it down for this vise.
  • using a coupling nut tapered to fit the pulley.  This gives you a self-centering rig which cuts down on vibration quite a bit.
  • The trick is screwing the bolt into the front of the four jaw chuck (without jaws) or the machinist's plate then parting off the head and turning the shaft down to 3/8 or 1/2".  This ensures concentricity between the threads and the newly turned shaft. The nut is split and used to hold the machined spindle in the mill to cut the Weldon flat without damaging the threads.

Rick Kernell's Taig Projects

  • , "the project that used the spare compound that you sent to me. The idea is to create a smooth movement when cutting precise tapers. I want to produce very precise pivots that will fit into sapphire bearings. I have cut them but I found that hand cranking the compound gave inconsistent movement. The thought is that the motor will move at a steady rate therefore making the cut into the rod cleaner. I am using a 5/12/24 component power supply and the 12 volt tap for this motor drive. I have set the pot prior to the DPDT switch and then the leads go to the motor via Radio Crap connector. This allows me to change the voltage feed linearly to the motor regardless of which polarity that the DPST switch is selected. The inductance of the motor is the primary current draw so the pot isn't much of a limit in comparison, but it is enough that I will change to a PWM driver pcb when I have all of the control components ready for the lathe and the mill. "
  • ". This idea has been rattling in my head for a while. Maybe some one else may find this a help. The new carriage feed moves at 1.800 inch per revolution. I marked off the wheel so that each 0.100 inch and 0.300 inch (black lines) has graduations. They are not knock-dead accurate due to the lead screw/gear play, but they are surprisingly reproducible."
  • is about 1 inch so I machined grooves into the rod every 1/8 inch for the range of movement.
  • of the second version of my tonearm design. As I told Dean, it is amazing how many "jigs" that you have to make to make
    parts! I have to say that I owe a great part of the credit to you and Dean. Thank you.

Lewis Bishop's Taig Projects

  • "I fly model airplanes and recently had to obtain a new radio. The gimbal sticks were too short and did not have sufficient adjustment to make them comfortable - so new stick grips were in order. The first three pics show the radio with both sets of gimbal tops - the originals are laying on the transmitter face with the new ones on the gimbals."
  • with the new belt on and the new tool post in position.
  • The interesting part of this project is that I have much better luck (control) of the shape and finish of the pen barrels by using the metal cutters purchased from you . By setting up a right hand cutter almost parallel with the work and using a fairly high speed, the cutter makes a very smooth finish and gets the size down quickly. 
  • and the rearrangement of all the tools. It is working really well. he shop is 7'-5" x 9'-7" inside. Marilyn and I did a lot of thinking and planning to get it all in. There are still some additions that will need ot be made as more things get sorted out. I have already replaced my old belt/disc sander and done an additional rework of the band saw with new blades and a fresh alignment by my son-in-law ( an ex cooper).  The base of the lathe is a work in progress also - built from left-overs and other scrap to provide a convienient drawer for all the attachments and to raise the work to an acceptable level for an old guy.
  • - in this case with some of the current crop of pens. Of note are the two on the right that are made from a 10 mm blank of fairly soft aluminum. Since the bodies are without the center band, a much more gentle shape can be turned. The finish is still eluding me and will require a lot more study and practice. 
  • to hold the tools and act as a stand. The new additions are the longer dead center with more travel along with a new lever with softer edges and a cute knob on the end - borrowed from my b-in-law's parts drawer. The knob is also on the new tailstock lock lever as well as the new tool post lock. 
  • received with the purchase of the lathe many years ago. The hole was not clean so a new .25 hole was hogged out with a new shoulder recess to fit the new lock as well as new threads for larger hold down bolts for the tool. The anchor for the post is a machined 1/4 -20 bolt with the head milled and slots cut for the "t" to hold the bolt straight. Additional threads were required on the bolt to allow for proper clamping force. It works pretty well and loads into the slot very easily. I need to do a new post with the different anchor to test the process and to put the tool at the correct height without shimming. Later on the old post will be a guinea pig for an adjustable height device or something.
  • turned from one of the rifle blank scraps that I cut last month. The grain of the walnut is just beautiful and is great to work with. 
  • similar to the one made by Dean Williams and now need to get a set of collets to avoid the jaws of the chuck (which seem to be attracted to my fingers). I think that using the stock Taig units at this time will work just fine as the range of size is OK . I'm enclosing the pics of the attachment to show my interpretation of Deans fixture. I actually got the attachment to work and immediately realized that rigidity is the mother of milling - had to add additional bolts to the T-slots - total four - rather than the two that fit the holes in the angle plate. 

Ron Kiely's Taig Lathe Projects

  • sent pictures of his stock Taig lathe setup
  • back in May. I have done a lot to it since then and also a lot with it as I use it to make high power mountain bike lights and the housings have to act as a heatsink. I stole some ideas from others on your site and all is working nice and smooth, great to have the "T" slot on the new carriage to mount the dial as I didn't want to drill holes in the lathe. The dials were very important to me as I am in the UK and can only work in metric. 
  • at the request of  a total stranger who lives in Portugal. Made from 45mm Aluminium bar it was quite a challenge for the rear mounted cut-off tool, these lights get very hot so require 7.5mm deep grooves in order to keep them cool, I almost run out of lead screw trying to get the cut-off tool that far back. Also lots of very deep boring for the electronics compartment but the taig coped very well.
  • for a bit and after seeing . I thought I’d have a go at making a mini version.  So out came the vertical slide for the lathe and in the end it all turned out nice and square.  I fitted some brass jaws as it will be used for making jewellery so soft jaws won’t mark the work.  All turned out well thanks to the vertical slide the pictures should speak for themselves.
  • that I have done to my lathe after fitting the retro power feed kit. The spring drive idea simply didn’t work for me so I fitted a universal joint, I could only find a short one in the UK so had to make a small extension piece for it. I then decide that I would prefer the tail stock end of the leadscrew to be supported so made up a block that holds a brass bushing and drilled the end of the leadscrew to take a steel dowel. It all works a treat and I only have to slide the bearing block out of the dovetail in order to remove the carriage.
    Oh and almost forgot...........I made a hand wheel lock but I should have drilled the holes in the hand wheel closer together. But it works. I might order or make a new hand wheel and drill holes closer together one day.


Pete Rees' Mill Projects and Modifications

  1.   I have seen a few variations done by other Taig owners on your web site.  Here is what I came up with.  Since the T-slot in the front of the table will only accept a 4-40 size screw, and I wanted the stops to be as ridged and repeatable as possible, I decided to use two screws per stop.  Each block is 1" long and 1/2" high and sticks out from the front edge of the table 1/2".  Both screws thread into the same "nut" as you can see in the exploded view picture.  I made two of them.  They are plenty rigid and work great.
  2.   I decided to use 1/4-20 hardware, so the T-nuts are threaded for that size.  I made them (and the clamps and table stops) from 12L14 steel.  The threads stop just short of going all the way thru, so that the studs bottom out before making contact with the bottom of the table T-slot - just like the "real" ones for the bigger mills.  They are also 1" long - probably overkill, but that's not a bad thing, right?  It gives them lots of contact area with the table, and being so long, they will never ding up the sides of the T-slots from twisting forces when tightening down the nuts. The clamps are also basically just copies of full size versions.  I looked and looked but could not find any where that sold them sized for 1/4" fasteners, so I made my own.  However, since I made them, I now see that A2Z CNC has some extremely nice adjustable "rite height" style clamps for sale.  Had those been available at the time, I would have purchased those.  I may still yet.To go with the T-nuts and clamps, I bought an assortment of different length studs, swivel-flange nuts, and coupler nuts from McMaster-Carr. Also, McMaster has some very nice American Made "Taig size" step blocks.  Those work great, too.  Whoever invented those was a genius!
  3. - a 2" precision "screwless" vice.  I think, if I remember correctly, it was made in India.  It works great - no complaints.  Although I needed to make some clamps to attach it to the table.  I made 4 identical clamps from aluminum.  If the vice is going to be clamped on the ends, I use 2 clamps.  But if I need to rotate it 90 degrees, I use 2 clamps on each side, for a total of 4.
  4. - pieces of square key stock, cut to 2" lengths.  I have a selection of 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" pieces.  They seem to work fine with as much precision as I need.  They can be used either as one pair, or stacked up on top of each other - I.E. stack a 1/4 on top of a 3/8 to get 5/8.
  5. (free!!):  I wanted some kind of shield or cover to protect the bottom area of the Z lead screw and ways.  I'm almost embarrassed to show you what I came up with.  In the one photo with the vise in the foreground and the Subway cups (for swarf) in the background, you can see my solution - a 6" wide by 3.5" high piece of cardboard form a cereal box held in place by scotch tape.  Don't laugh!  It works great!  It rarely gets in the way, but if it does, pealing the tape off takes all of 5 seconds.   Some day I will make a nicer version out of similar rubber to match the other covers.
  6. - a pair of extra heavy duty washers to replace the original two that hold the mill motor to its mount.  The new ones are very thick and work good.
  7. to the mill table to monitor X travel.  This is way more complex than it needed to be, but I wanted to make it that way just for the challenge.  Lots of hours in that part.  Initially, most of the big areas were removed by very carefully using a hack saw.  It is symmetrical, side to side, and can be mounted either on the left side of the table (as shown in the photo) or on the right side.


Norman Crowson's Projects

  • added vibration mounts to his manual Taig Mill motor, "McMaster part number 9016K113 vibration isolation mounts with 10-32 posts which match the Franklin 1/5 HP motor that shipped with my Taig mill. The motor is approximately 9 lbs, making each mount load a little over 2 pounds. The mounts are rated at 8 lbs per post, compression load, with no data available on sheer force from McMaster's catalog."
  • installation of motor mounts; Photo2 is the dial indicator swing due to vibration ONLY with the mill motor running. Although the camera "froze" the needle vibration at over .002, in actual viewing it was past .003; the needle motion so violent as to make the indicator unreadable, not to mention potential dial damage. The indicator was attached to the mill column and contacted the mill X-axis bed, zero'd... then the motor turned on and the photo taken.
  • installation of 4 mounts and the motor running; the dial indicator is steady.
  • ; the .125 inch extra length of threaded rod sticking down can easily be cut off with a dremel cutoff blade. My guess is that these rubber mounts may make balancing the motor armature unnecessary, except in the most extreme cases. Note: The condition of the rubber mounts will need to be monitored , as all rubber products eventually deteriorate . While I doubt the motor would fall if all 4 mounts failed simultaneously, safety always comes 1st. There are mechanical interlocking rubber mounts available at a higher cost for any who don't mind the additional investment. Routinely monitoring the condition of the motor mounts is for me just another part of frequent safety checks required on ALL electrical and mechanical components. If I have time I may explore some of the vibration frequency "nodes" that occur at various tension settings of the Taig mill belt... I'm wondering if an idler might dampen these out just a bit... These were just the first motor mounts I found that had a significantly favorable impact on the overall no-load vibration, were economically priced, and simple to install.
  • made on my Taig mill... used a rotary table plus a gear cutting wheel to tooth a gear blank I turned on my atlas lathe using a microscope and DI.
    The brass gear replaces the delrin gears (black in the photo) that go on my Bachmann Climax HO Locomotive... the delrin gears are splitting on their axles.
    One gear down and 11 to go to finish the project.  More details are available by email to any that might have an interest.
  • made on the Taig mill and atlas lathe for Bachman Shay and Climax locomotives ...

Bob Eckstein's Taig Lathe

  • than I had expected, but the Taig lathe is now a going concern. 
  • was a collection of sharp jagged edges. Judicious use of a fine file cleaned up the extrusions and made it a lot more pleasant to deal with. The motion of the ram was somewhat rough and uneven but a session with lapping compound took care of it. The handle is made of layers of CORIAN plastic laminated with epoxy and carved to shape.  The knobs are from the hardware store, 10-32 thread.  The chuck is a Craftsman keyless 3/8"
  •   to use in truing the lathe jaws, and a carbide lathe bit made a real mess of it, so I took a cylindrical solid carbide milling cutter and placed it in the drilling tailstock. I closed the chuck very gently until there was the slightest contact and turned it slowly by hand, then tightened it a little more and continued until the jaws had been cleaned up. The milling cutter was small enough that I could run it to the back of the jaws and avoid having to remove them to file off the "lip".  The whole process went very quickly.  There is still a little run-out but far less than what the chuck had as delivered.
  •   Power supply is a 5 amp Variac with a full-wave rectifier.  The motor has a 1/4" shaft and I found the perfect adapter to use the 1/2" pulley:  It's a chuck sleeve for Hitachi routers to use 1/4" bits in a 1/2" router chuck.   The Hitachi part number is 956-927Z, Model TR-12.
  • on the carriage so you don't have to hold it to use the power feed.  By the way, the power feed advances the carriage approximately .003 per revolution of the input pulley.
  • with instant forward / reverse switches.
  • They can be had in thrift stores for usually under .00.  The whole project cost maybe .00.  
  • to the gearbox input pulley is via a couple O-rings on the plastic pulley of the motor shaft.
  • I found to improve the readability of the scales on Taig lathe handwheels.  The diameter of the wheels is approximately 31.46 mm. giving a circumference of 98.85.  With the additional thickness of a sheet of good quality paper, the circumference is exactly 100 mm.  I used an open-source graph printing program to print 2 mm gradations on the paper and then applied narrow strips to the handwheels on the cross slide and compound by moistening the paper in thin cyanoacrylate cement. This gave 50 divisions per revolution for a measured advance of 0.001 inch per division. Much more visible than the markings engraved in the metal.
  • I made which offsets the tool to the right edge of the carriage to compensate for the location of the T-slots. 

Gerald Hynes Projects

  • : "Just finished my first real useful shop project/TAIG Lathe mod and I had to share it with someone. Just the standard Tail Stock handle extension with my twist. I milled a piece of 1/2" round steel flat on two sides to 1/8" like the original flat handle. I then drilled and threaded the opposite end. Into this screws the 1/4" rod handle extension with a large plastic knob on the end that I happened to have laying about.A lock nut keeps it tight. The extension is easily removable to get it out of the way and the new 1/2" round handle is much easier on the hands.Overall with the extension is 10.5" and without the extension is same as stock! Took me all afternoon of tinkering but sure feels good. Can only imagine how good the completion of a steam engine must feel! When I figure out how to use the compound slide I might even put a slight taper on it!"
  • I made for use on my "non TAIG" milling machines but set-up for mounting many stock TAIG accessories for a variety of clamping options. the fixture plates are drilled and tapped 1/4"-20 on a 1" grid pattern. they mount to the mill with T nuts thru the counterbored holes using 1/4"-20 sockethead bolts. All unused holes in the grids are plugged with short set screws to keeps the chips out of the holes.
  • on a 1" grid to allow use of the TAIG vise without modifing the existing counterbored mounting holes. Also since the TAIG vise jaws are mounted on the same spacing they could be removed for direct mounting to the plate. Also the 2 vises can be mounted end to end and with some reconfigration of the jaws allow clamping upto about 5 3/4"! Not bad for a pair of vises under ea ! The beauty of the whole set-up is the ability to move work from the lathe to the mill and back without disturbing the part! Bear in mind that these are not precision plates and are merely made from affordable 6061 bar stock. If needed I can mount a sub-plate and then machine it flat at that position and then mount work to it. Overall though they are very useful devices for most required set-ups. I have sanded them flat on a granite surface plate so the are generally good for the sorts of projects I undertake. I may at some point have a friend flycut them on his bridgeport for a more precise flatness and parallellism. Or at some point I may get my own bridgeport sized CNC knee mill finished and flycut themself! The mill of course is a whole other project!

Leon Dionne's Taig Lathe Projects

  • (variable frequency drive), which gives me speed control from zero to max, forward and reverse, controlled start and stop, and a number of other features which I have as yet not found a use for.
  • At very low RPM, the motor also produces very low torque. With the reduction in speed, and conversely the increase in torque I get with the jack shaft,(a factor of approx 2.5), I can get a spindle speed of approximately 50 RPM and still get plenty of torque (the belts will slip before the motor will stall)
  • allows the use of the carriage stop.
  • , the lever extension is simply a 5 inch piece of 1/2 inch copper pipe with a brass knob locktited at the tip. A tommy bar replaces the hex screw.
  •   Sliding a 7/8 inch ID O-ring over the carriage hand wheel, provides the friction required to prevent the hand wheel from "creeping" out of adjustment.
  • is made of  2 inch angle iron and 1/4 inch slide rods mounted on a wood base.
  • the belt tensioning screw.
  • except for the tooling plate I made for it.
  • , 5 inches wide.
  • is shown here mounted in the vertical position.
  • allows me to use the Taig tailstock with the Sherline rotary table on my tooling plate.
  • (or should I call those X blocks) made from 1" square aluminum stock.
  • is a slightly modified version of the one by Dean Williams. Details for its construction on his web site. Thanks Dean. The hand crank mounted at the
    tail end of the lathe does not hinder the removal of the carriage, as I will show in the following photos.
  • , drilled and mounted to the lead screw at the tail end of the lathe.
  • and silver soldered to the hand crank.
  • and removed without the use of any tools for easy removal of the carriage. A .010 shim (not visible in the photo) was superglued to one face of the shaft to eliminate crank wobble.
  • shown in engaged position.
  • shown in disengaged position.
  • . I'm sure this topic has been covered many times before but here's the method I use.

Håvard Buhaug's Extended X axis Taig Mill

  •   The axis is 1500mm long, and I made it for cutting rifle stocks blanks and other long wooden items. Attached some pictures from the setup and product coming out.
    The parts needed machining in order to make the axis were obviously made with the Taig

Monty Remon's Taig Lathe Modifications

  • I got rid of the hex head clamping bolts like every one else and elected to replace them with ratcheting levers fitted with brass washers, they can now be aligned for ergonomic or asthetic reasons. Note the length of 1/8"x1/2" brass angle under the ram clamping lever to spread the load over 3 /4".  Next job to be attacked was that little lever which has caused so much pain after a heavy drilling session. I decided not to go down the 'mine is bigger than yours road' and attach a 12" billet of titainium so that it dug me in the ribs as I walked passed, and instead this telescopic assembly sort of evolved. It is 1/2"x1/2" alloy bar fitted with a ss draw knob at the end for comfort and a spring and ball bearing catch let in near the other end. The original arm is replaced by a length of 5/8" x 18g box section steel with a short length of 1/8" bar silver soldered on the side and holes drilled to accept the ram and link pin fixings(). The underside has holes drilled at 1" spacing to allow the lever to step out to any length required, 9" is enough to hang your hat on.
    ()It is too easy to copy the pivot spacing dimensions of the original lever but they are not the best! Set up your lever assy., to mid., travel and you will most likely see lots of 90 deg angles. Now if you are like me and you do lots of full stroke drilling then any deviation either side of the ram mid position causes the link to deviate from parallel and increases the ram side loading (on 1/8" air gap!) If the hole spacing on the lever is made 1/16" greater than the ram c/l to link pivot dim., then the side loads are decreased because the link swings through an arc and is aligned twice, and therefore decreased side loads.
  • was stimulated by pictures from other web site donors who rotated the tailstock assy., 180 degs to get the drill chuck nearer (3/4") to the work piece (the 't' slots were used to retain a bar for dropping a mounting for the link /pin). My scrap box came up with a different solution. Two links and a triangular mounting plate (should be brass). The plate thickness must be such that it is a loose fit in the existing clamping slot when the drilling ram is locked, the plate is located by the slot, the clamping bolt and the sliding ram (that's the reason for the brass). New pins were made for the pivots to take slack out the system. A quickly reversible job. (A sort of pun)
  • with accuracy eluded me for ages. I had a system on the drawing board that used the end of my telescopic arm to engage in an acme type thread for quick disconnect but it would not give linear micrometer type accuracy -  back burner for a while. The solution was found by accident! One day I had in my possession a used drilling tailstock and I noticed a hole drilled and tapped 1/4"x20 set below the ram? I had no idea of its original purpose so I fitted the assembly to a lathe bed and screwed a length of 1/4 x20 rod in place, I stared at this setup in a menacing manner for the duration of a cup of coffee. A visit to the scrap box yielded a short length of 1/2" diam.,brass bar, this was drilled and tapped 1/4x20 for 1" length and the rest was 1/4" to clear the thread. A 1/8" external groove at the threaded end to finish, this was then screwed home and a long split pin dropped through the ram end into the groove. I found it possible to drill 1/4" holes by rolling the rod between thumb and finger! I allowed myself a ten minute smug break then substituted DELRIN for the brass rod and a temp., knob/spinner fitted, there is no slack in the groove/thread department. The threaded rod is now fitted to a piece of 1/2x1/2 alloy bolted under the tailstock so that things line up with my telescopic lever assy., this system will permit changing to a stiffer 3/8 rod if needed. The ram pin features a knob with saddle seatings at two depths and 90 degs apart, a 1/4 turn on this allows instant switching between systems at any stroke position. YI - HA. A new free index able graduated winding knob is on the cards, it involves acrylic, antifreeze, printer ink and an 'O' ring! If it works I feel a smug level '10' coming on.
  • plus a dedicated(?) threading system under developement, and have actually only cut 5 threads in anger!!!!
    The first was very simple copying system, consisting of 1/4" alloy bracket mounted on the carriage just clear of the x slide. A pivoting 1/2" square brass block tapped with 2 different target threads was mounted at the top, a sample of the target thread in rod form was screwed to the work piece, this attachment point was machined away after the thread was cut. I found a similar system on your site but it used a flexi plate or a bendy rod mounted on the x slide?
    Not wanting stacks of gears, shafts, levers and lead screws I did more research. I got confused by the Kneall systems, but liked the Keith Brooke copying method, I could understand that and had visions of slowly producing parts over weeks, so I made a start on the plate that fitted to the front of the carriage and then stopped! Time for a coffee, I then gave the whole lathe a severe looking at for half an hour and decided I was straying from the strait and narrow (PUN?)! I laid two lengths of 1/4" diam.,rod on the bed poking through the space in the headstock the Taig designers thoughtfully placed there for me, and measured a clearance of 4" diameter, enough to chuck 3.3" diam., work. A simple arrangement was arrived at to get from the clamp able mounting block made from 1"x1" scrap box alloy, through the guide assy.,(two 1"x1/4" scrap brass) clamped to the headstock and on to the carriage mounted plate. A piece of 1/2"x1/2" alloy is bolted on a vertical face of the clamp block and used to mount the thread magazine. The magazine is an off cut of 1 5/8" diam x 1/2" delrin with the target threads drilled and tapped at 45deg., stations. My scrap box is taking a beating. It's all been too easy so far, a bit of drilling, reamer work and tapping, sawing and threading and milling if you want to. Knowing that two 1/4 rods side by side are not as stiff as one 3/8" I elected to forget the drill chuck for target thread holding and try to get within 2" of the pulley assy., to reduce the bending forces.  I made several dedicated male thread followers that clamp a through the spindle rod in place via the collet taper. The tpi range I selected are 18,20,22,24,26,28,32, & 40. The system worked well, a definite smug factor when I produced my first engine crank case back plate.
    A couple of points to note, the two guide plates are mirror image, the hole location was worked out to give 1/32" over the lathe bed and  the same side clearance. The guide plates were machined as one and then used to machine the holes in the clamping block and the connecting plate for accuracy. When setting up the guide block assembly fit the clamping block to the l.h. end of the rods and position the carriage near to the headstock, tighten things up, now any alignment errors can only decrease and the system should not bind. The guide assy., can be left clamped in place, the carriage plate bolts were slackened off a flat, the rods finger tightened and then the plate locked? Not counting the bolts this gadget can be made with 10 simple parts and two of those are rods.
  • It has not been a labour of love, more a pain in the backside, too much cofffe and head aches over a six month period, but I'm at the MK 2 version. It is the mounting system that I've yet to sort out. Basically it is just a box (HA!)that is bolted to the head stock and the output rod connected to the carriage. The input shaft is driven by a gear or toothed belt mounted on the end of the pulley. The drive of 2:1 ratio can be swapped round to 1:2 ratio, this gives two ranges but infinitely variable pitch selection within each range, at the moment this version has a 5 to 80 TPI range (5-20+ 20-80), a design change could make this 10 to 160 easily. To cut a thread just dial it in, the settings are obtained from a chart, METRIC? B.A? A.N.F? CLINGON? M.E.. NO PROBLEM, I YOU CAN SPELL IT YOU CAN CUT IT. The down side- you can't cut rod lengths but a cut of 1/2" to 1" depending on the range selected is ok.
  • from or remember the black fingers, friction burns, shortness of breath and finger cramps from over enthusiastic operation of the standard xslide dial? Well after a few months (that long!) I resolved to make life easier with a larger spinning handle, mounted on a long strap across the end of the Taig dial using two bolts to increase the swing. Standard stuff, a piece of 1/2" diam., brass and some 1/8x1/2" brass strip a bolt and 2 c/sunk screws, dump the original knob. Well I hung my first handle on loosely then did my usual, made a cup of tea. It was returning to the results of my endeavours that was fortuitous because what I saw was the GAP under the handle! and I visualised the flange of a sleeve restrained by it. Well I had worked out where to get the metal for the sleeve before the screws were out. I had some large diam., brass plumbing fittings for that rainy day, you can find them in a DIY store, don't cost more than a beer. Sleeves, step downs, flanges and blanks, all are ideal because you don't need to remove much metal. I turned down the flange face first, then internally 1/8" less than the Taig dial diam.. The division markings and finger grips were next. The sleeve was parted off at Taig dial thickness plus the flange depth. Turn the job round in the chuck to bore out the inside to clear the \taig dial for depth and diam.. Depending on the type of fitting you started out with you might only need to take the tops off the threads. Not much swarf then. The only other component is a packing washer that fits the hole in the flange with clearance holes for the two screws. Friction can be tweaked by backing the disc or the back of the arm with stiff card. Well it worked for me, just a few hours work, and it has to be cheaper than fitting a Shearline part. OOPS! I nearly forgot use a scrap piece of sleeve split or shrunk on as the index marker.
  • , on my pulley mounted disc type indexing plate I was contemplating a peripheral arrangement, a sort of drum extension fitted on the pulley, but I required 3 rows of holes and it was apparent that there would only be room for two, and as I did not have any large diam., metal to hand the back burner beckoned this project. Then while downing another cup of tea the solution (pun?) appeared, three inches from the problem! It was the band of metal at the rear of the 4J chuck. Ok so I had the Where, now the How. I elected to have 50,60 and 72 divs., and obtained some gear wheels with teeth to suit. I turned some clamp able mountings out of acetal, the height to suite the gear/chuck height req'd with a small spigot to fit each gear and a captive retaining bolt. Each gear has a short spigot to match the 4J registry. A centre drill is mounted in a head stock chuck, this is lined up with the captive bolt with this using the xslide, lock the xslide. The hex key was mounted in the tailstock chuck, select a size that sits between the teeth and does not bottom. Make sure the gear teeth are clean. Disconnect the drilling lever. For each series of holes the gear is kept in register by the stepped adaptor and double sided sticky tape - forget this at your peril. One important check, rotate the chuck by hand to ensure there is no wobble in the stacked assy.. (One of my gears was sawn from stock not turned, it looked like my wife's sliced bread!!)
    I elected to start with the middle row of holes (X60).
    Setting up procedure. Touch chuck to drill and back off 1/2" from drill.  Slacken gear/chuck nut, slacken ram clamp, move tailstock assy., up to the carriage and lock. Hand feed the hex key/chuck into the gear teeth, this will align the gear radially and the hex key vertically at the same time, clamp both.
    Switch on. Wind the carriage left and drill the 1st., hole to req'd depth, set the carriage stop. Back off, slacken off nut, right carriage to index next gear tooth, tighten nut, carriage left - drill second hole, back off, slacken off - -  58 to go. Ready for that next cup of tea?
    The same procedure for the other gears, just remember the correct thickness packing for the corresponding gear to locate the ring of holes on the chuck.
  • The asymmetric mounting footprint was to cater for other items to be fitted to the head stock. The bracket assy., was made from 1/8" steel angle, like wise the flying clamp part, both of these components were crimped in a vice to key the inner faces. The slotted lever is from 1/4" alloy, and the slot long enough to slide across the three rows of holes. This clamping method was found strong enough to support the weight of the lathe! Move your clamping hole 1/4" to the left (ref., my pics) and extend the lever by the same amount, you can see in the pics that one of my mounting bolts is under the lever, OOPS!
    The only downside so far - I can't index using chucks or collets. YET------. Now where is that cup of tea?
  • so much force your fingers turn red and the little annular dovetail arrangement can't hack it and then the air turns blue! I fitted additional stops it the 'T' slots as I had seen on your (Nick) site and was contemplating trying the additional clamping slot in the body I'd seen there too. Well, I laid all the compound slide components out gave them a severe looking at and even with a cup of tea the solution (groan) never came, only a general direction. I had a piece of 1/2"x2"x3" alloy for the body, ok, for a 2" diam., annular dovetail! Next. A look at the end section revealed a few problems, the Taig body measured 0.435" thick, if 0.125" is taken off for the dovetail clamping there is only .060" metal remaining, to copy the 'U' channel arrangement only 30 thou left, not very stiff! However drilling down the middle then milling out a slot to house the split nut will retain rigidity. Great. I decided on drilling the 1/4" hole 1st., I attacked it from both ends, and met it the middle with no binding. The split nut housing presented no problems, just mill and drill.
    Because as much metal as possible was req'd to chuck the work piece securely, turning down the the base to make a 2" diam., cylinder that is 0.130" deep, then under cutting at 45 degs was the next job, it was as entertaining as always mounting the work in the 4JC.
  • . I slipped a piece of steel rod through the appropriate 1/4" hole in the work piece and clamped down on this giving myself 1/2" clearance for the cutter. This was to be my first attempt at machining a dovetail in anger but my dovetail cutter was too small so I had to do it in stages, the profile is not correct but at least at least it turned out be an accurate cock-up that proves I am on the right track. (If I  take the nose of one of my gib plates then I have good contact.)
  • I used 1/8"x3/4" but would recommend that 1/8"x 1" is used so that the locating c/s screws can be positioned clear of the turning. Production turned out to be easy. The brass plates were bolted on to the face of a piece of 1/2"x2"x3" and set up in the 4JC. I turned the plates to get 1 3/4" diam., recess then switched to a 45 deg., cut, removed one piece and tried the fit - close but not enough. Bolted back in place, a deeper cut was taken then the same piece removed and tried for fit again, close enough! The clamps were removed and the holes c/sunk on the back side, deep enough to ensure that they are recessed. The clamping assy., must have less depth than the circular seating to make sure that the base is clamped to the xslide surface. Tickle with a file if req'd.
    The only short coming with the system at the moment is easy location and locking on the top slide, readers may come up with a neat solution before I do. At the moment I can only locate and lock at either end of the xslide. The system req'd I drill and tap either end of the top slide between the 'T' slots and use a bolt and washer to apply the clamping force on the loose clamp. To set up the clamps are located in the 'T' slots and the screw/ washer assy., set a 1/4 turn out, the end clamp locked against this. The compound slide is seated against this end clamp and the other clamp seated against the slide and locked, the end clamp is then slackened off a touch the compound slide set to the req'd angle and locked using the end screw.
  • I new I'd have to make one, the woodruff key design was ideal. I have reconstructed here with photos the operations I used to achieve my goal, hope it helps someone.
    I used 1"x1/4" steel off cuts clamped in the tool post, this was used as the work holder and then this was mounted off centre in the 4J chuck. A radius of 0.75" was suitable for machining material 1/4" thick, (a piece of 1/4" brass has been substituted for illustration purposes.)
    Method, cutting the external diam.. First, wind out the tool .75" from the centre, zero dial (note reading). Centre the tool post width in the 4J then offset with the other jaws and packing to bring the work piece up to the tool bit. Now crank away from the work, and check everything is clamped tight. 3/8" of cutting will allow enough metal to part off with a saw later. I took 5 thou cuts and was down to the surface ( ZERO/.75" rad.,) in no time. Change your tool bit now for a thin internal cutting one and wind it OUT untill the cutting edge aligns with the external surface you have just machined. Slide the tool holder out of the chuck. Remove the woodruff piece and the 2 tool post screws. Mark a line on the face of the tool post 1/4" below the normal tool bit seating. Slip the tool post back in the 4J and wind the jaws until the scribed line comes up to the cutting edge of the tool bit, clamp everything again with padding. Now do the internal boring, here the radius of the cut takes president over the depth (1/4") of the cut, the inside edge of the tool bit will catch the top of the tool post slot if you get this wrong. Set the depth stop and remove metal until you 'zero'. Theoretically both machined surfaces will have the same curvature. Saw your woodruff seating turning off the stump, you could now clamp this back in the tool post and face the edge. This has been harder to describe than to make!
  • that this method of grinding and mounting tool bits has been around for years
    and that several designs are manufactured for the industry and retail at considerable (inhibiting) sums. I like many must have puzzled over the geometry and the tool holder machining to get the magic angles at the sharp end. I was lucky my solution came in a flash and I made the prototype in five minutes. I just worked back from the bit in a straight line (keep it simple), the tool holder was a piece of 5/16 square door handle furniture mounted in a Taig tool post, jacked up 3/32" then the end drilled through 1/8" diam., at 10degs 'ish and then a saw cut 1/3 down and long enough to get a far as the clamping bolts. It took a further 15 minutes to try and grind a tool bit. My non-standard Taig tool post was reduced in height by 1/4" to allow for the tool bit geometry and a 1/4" packing washer fitted to the top to keep the clamping bolt happy and the large corner reliefs allow the tool access to the work piece. The theory that the vertical clamping force would lock the inclined tool bit proved true. OK so that was the tangential system sorted but the 'diamond' part needed internet help from those in the know. I found figures of 30 degs tool bit grinding angle and mounting in two planes at 12/12degs., to be common. Much head scratching and drawing yielded the result that the tool bit should be inclined at 16 degs., in the tool holder to give the req'd angles with the holder/ tool post clamped at 45 degs to the work face. (Could it be this simple?)
    I  came up with a system to accurately drill and broach 1/8" square hole in a tool holder at the 16 degs., and achieve a 30 deg., face on the tool bit. Basically two tool holders are made at the same time, with part of each forming the drilling broaching /guide for the other.
    The broaching tool was a length of 1/8 sq., tool steel set in a flanged brass turning, the drill chuck transmits the cutting force via the flange to the broaching bit. A diamond disc in a Dremel was used to make notches on the end of the cutter.
    The 5/16 bars were bolted together and packed up 3/4" one end then clamped to the side of a 1x2x3 block for drilling and broaching. Flipped over and the process repeated. The parts were unbolted and the small clamping bolt holes drilled and tapped, then separated with a saw and  slotted. Grinding the angle on the end and fitting the clamping bolt and washer completes the tool holder.
    Bit sharpening the correct angle is achieved by using the tool holder. If 7/8" diam wheels are fitted as per the drawing and a roughly ground (30 degs.,) piece of 1/8x1/8 tool steel is clamped with 1/16" protruding from the bottom, then rolling the assy., to and fro on a diamond stone will give the correct angle.
    A couple of points. Flatting the surfaces of the bars with a fine file prior to bolting together and broaching would seem advisable and and it would help with stability in the tool post, but you could of course start with thicker stock and mill it down but it would seem that 5/16" bar fills the bill.
    If the axel hole is omitted from one of the parts then the slot could be extended to the mid clamping point and the inboard tool post bolt used to clamp the bit as in my prototype effort.
    How well does it work? It performs just like in the videos. I was only surprised at how good it felt to slowly hand feed the tool and see the metal come off, what a good finish!
  • , so it's a case of swapping one component for the other. Anyone with the new power feed lathe will be aware of the problems of sliding the carriage back on the bed with the lead screw flailing about. For those that don't the lead screw is driven by the g/box via a spring and it is really floppy, its end locates in a pivoting block on the carriage assy., trying to line up these components several times per job is a pain. My solution to the problem was to limit the angular movement of the block to a few degrees by bolting a plate and a bit of 1/2x1/2 to the bottom of the carriage. I turned a bullet shaped guide out of brass to fit the end of the lead screw. How do you machine the end of 12 inches of 1/2" diam., lead screw in a Taig lathe? It will not go through the spindle and it is too long to mount in the chuck. I attacked the problem from a different direction. The drilling tail stock just happens to be great for clamping 1/2" lead screws if you remove the ram and lever first. A mill was colleted (?) and drill and tap was chucked in the head stock end and the work fed into these by sliding the tail stock in by hand. With the guide fitted the assy., was reconnected to the gear box and now the carriage can be slid onto the bed and the lead screw located blind with the minimum of fumbling. The other problem with the spring coupling is the lack of control with about 3/16" of axial play in the lead screw it feels like you are machining rubber! The way I tightened things up was to put a groove in the brass guide fitted on the end of the lead screw and make a sliding bolt assy., to engage in this to restrict axial movement. The whole thing clamps in the dovetails on the back of the bed in the same manner as the g/box mounting. It now feels as responsive as the older rack and pinion system.

  • is the end of the milling slide l/screw marking the top edge of the cross slide when located in the fore/aft position. I fitted a limit stop in the form of a grub screw and lock nut to a redundant corner of the l/screw mounting plate and set it to give a few thou., clearance on the l/screw. The observant amongst you will have noticed the resemblance of the slide to a Swiss cheese, the extra holes help to mount the slide at 45 degs on the cross slide.
  • , so I'll include a few photos of what I am really interested in. I like to modify/tune/repair model diesel engines, I selected P.A.W. engines because they are cheap and cheerful, if a bit agricultural. One pic is of a PAW 2.49 contest diesel going through my hands at the moment, the only parts not replaced or tweaked are the gudgeon pin and the prop., nut. I have developed two new induction systems (both work well), two new carb's., one is a straight swap with the PAW venturi but works like a COX peripheral, the other one is adjustable, annular jet, made to fit my Oliver Tiger but suitable for any thing that sucks. I also have an automatic variable venturi system not yet running. As for cooling, I have just got on top of cylinder heads (groan), well I was going to say I had cylinder jackets all wrapped up (you want more?). Porting and transfer passages is the latest avenue (!) I am exploring, my mock-up cylinders are made out of acrylic tube as it helps to understand work/tool alignment and where the cutters are going and how much material is left, but I'm sorry to say I can't show any pics of the porting as the results would be clearly seen (is that one groan or two?). A few pics of my first bar stock engine with a new induction system running on the test bench, far better than I expected for a new concept, still room for tweaking things though. A pic of some bar stock components ready for induction experiments, I have been getting my moneys worth out of the milling slide.
  • , I'm going DC. I've tacked all the boxes together to test it. So I've just made a slightly larger pulley extension that includes a drum 60 div., facility, machined in the same manner as my chuck mod., but now I realise I've lost a facility I used a lot with my old disc type system, I could use clamps on the perimeter and stops on the headstock so that I was able to mill arcs with a degree of precision- so today it will be another disc system. Last night I found out that 5.5mm hex bar locates and slides smoothly in the 'T' slots, so using the side slot and a top slot on the new head stock there is a .25" radius diff., room for 60+72 div., holes and a clamping zone on a 3.75" disc, I can feel it is all going to come together nicely.
  • going DC fit a large diam., pulley to drop the spindle speed down so I followed suit. Having some 2 1/2" bar and 5mm aircraft grade alclad sheet I set about fabricating some larger diam.,pulleys. I copied the standard Taig pulley small end to drive my gear box then added a 3/8" disc of 2 1/2 inch bar and machined a belt groove, the parts were joined using 3 c/s screws about 120 degs apart. Wanting to regain a facility I had on an old pulley system I fitted a 3 1/2" disc of 5mm alclad, this would give me a 1/4" and clamping ring clear of the head stock and a really large pulley diameter, the 5mm thickness being enough material for a belt groove. This plate was also attached to the pulley assy., using 3 c/s screws about 120 degs apart, this method of construction ensures that the parts only assemble in one configuration. Not wanting to waste an opportunity I decided to drill some index holes in the plate too, but did not know where. I made  quick Bentley type index pin that clamps on outside of the 'T' slot, then out of curiosity I slipped drills into the 'T' slot to see if one would fit, not impressed I slipped in a length of 7/32 hex rod, a perfect sliding fit! So I made my hex index pin 2" long with a 60 deg., point on each end, I tapped a blind hole and screwed home a bolt and ground the head off, a bit of brass hex for the clamping nut and a sticky ally washer completed the job. Both types of pins could be used to mark the hole positions on the disc. The pulley disc assy., was removed from the spindle and fitted in the 4J chuck and the holes drilled. It was convenient having already added the indexing capability to my 4J.
    It has been noted that the 'T' slot dimensions in the h/stock are all the same, be it the old split type or the new one piece extrusion, but the PCD derived from using the index pins is different between the two h/stocks, here the new h/stock has the advantage in that my hex pin design fits the top or the back 'T' slot, only one pin needed to cover both sets of holes.
    I took several pics of the above procedures but it was when I was reviewing the shot from the back with my 3J chuck fitted that I got diverted! (Again)
    See the spacer washer I have to use?
  • Well I just imagined it 82mm diam., with holes in. I thought I would fabricate some index discs, that can be slipped onto the spindle when required to do those little jobs and clamped with 3J, 4J, Taig drill arbour, collet set or face plate. I was lucky enough to have some 16g alclad under the bench so I set to. First I cut out some 85mm oct., shapes and centred them in the 4J chuck, the middle was turned out to .75" diam., and the fit checked by reversing the chuck on the spindle. When the size was right the plate was removed and clamped back on the spindle using a Taig arbour and the O.D. turned down to 82mm. The back face was coated with a marker pen so that the two PCD scribed by the index pins showed up clearly and the disc reversed. Once the decision was made as to which series of holes were to be drilled and the method (I am spoilt for choice here as I already have a selection of gears, index plates and and my modified 4J chuck). The method shown in the pics is the fastest for doing the 72 hole series . I turned a stepped arbour in the 4J to take the 72 gear hub and the .75" disc and clamped them with a dished washer. The drill system was set up at the far end of the x slide, then lined up with the scribed marks and the slide locked. A hex key was clamped to a tool post at the near side of the x slide and set up to engage the gear teeth just before the drill touched. The drill size at these diams needs to be 3/32". 2 seconds/hole was a respectable rate! I transferred the other holes from my 4J chuck at 10 secs/ hole. A few points to think about, either lub the disc to save the ally when clamping or maybe use some steel sheet. The index pin profiles can of course be modified, in the case of pairing a disc with a 4J chuck then two shallow grooves at 2.76" and 2.2" diam on the back face will clear the points. And just to finish this train of thought, a full set of index holes could be drilled in the back of a face plate (next job). Another thought if a face plate has a 60 series of holes drilled on the back and a series of 72 around the the outside diam., there is a difference of 1 deg., in their angles? Hmmm. If I'm not careful I could get side tracked again.
  • , I did what I had threatened to and having all my bits of kit from my index plate mod to hand, I marked the index pin hole location and set to and drilled the back of the face plate with 60 holes, then swapped things about and mounted the plate on the x slide and drilled 72 holes around the outside as per my 4J chuck mod..Now for those that are not aware of where all this is leading, the 60 hole ring has 6 degs between holes and the 72 ring has 5 degs between holes and the difference between them is  - 1 DEGREE ! I knew this could be right handy but not how to make use of it. If all else fails I have a cup of tea and sure enough the solution (groan) appears. I just made a slot in the lever mounting used with my chuck mod., so that the lever assy., has vertical and lateral adjustment, only a few degrees needed, it will be in the pics. And now the procedure to tweak my face plate by any number of degrees. eg. REQ'D - Two degs C/W. Slacken 60 hole index pin rotate plate two divs (12 degs) c/w. lock with 60 hole pin. Align 72 hole index pin assy., clamp lever mounting and check index pin seated, withdraw 60 hole pin. Now rotate plate using the 72 hole ring, 2 divs (10 degs) a/c/w, seat index pin. End result 2 degs C/W movement. Well it was either solve that little problem or cut the grass!

  • My attempts to come up with a solution that involved a quick flip down, engage gear and brake assy., gizmo using brackets and plates eluded me for hours but as usually happens I got inspiration from elsewhere in the form of a large hex key on my bench, so I came at the problem from a different direction, 90 degs in fact! What started out with a hex key now has more resemblance to a box spanner/tommy bar. I will try and put the pics in some sort of order with a few words of explanation of how I got 'tooled up' starting with a pic of my hex key and first experiments with mounting clamps and "T" bar arrangements.
  • - eccentric 1/4" location collar, 1/4" spacer, 1/2" eccentric brake mounting, brake/pinch bolt, 3/8" spacer, mounting arm with worm shaft bearing assy., the worm shaft and worm, seating collar for division plate, division plate/carrier/clamping bolt assy., thrust washer, shaft location collar, indexing arm assy., and securing screw/washer for the arm. What NO sector arms!!!!!A few notes on some of the above components, the spacers I managed to make out of an old syringe with an id of .75" they set things up axially to align the brake and worm when installing the system with my pulley mounted worm gear. The locating collar and the brake mount could be made from 1" diam bar and bored out eccentrically to match the main support arm, but I was lucky having some 1.25" x.25" ally tube that could be offset 1/16 in the chuck turned eccentrically to leave a 1/4" flange on the outside for the brake seating. The collar needs a small drilling for a tommy bar in order to rotate it and set the brake arm to spindle centers distance. The locating collar only needs drilling and tapping for a grub screw. The brake assy, is cut out from 1/4" ally sheet with one hole to clear the 1" diam., adjusting eccentric and at 1.666" ctrs., the other hole is 1.666" diam., (spooky!) to clear the plain portion of the Taig pulley. A saw cut joins the two holes and the edges were thinned down to 1/8" to give it a little spring. A small grub screw is fitted in the top, this is only nipped up once the eccentric is correctly aligned and the spindle/pulley runs free in the brake. The whole brake assy., should be free to swing on the arm. The pinch bolt is a 4mm hex head bolt, within an ally sleeve, the sleeve end is recessed at 7.5mm diam., and the bolt head was pressed into this using a vice.
    The main support arm is .75" diam., and should have been 3.5" long (OOPS), the extra .25" I misplaced from the end was an alternative location for the brake assy., to be used when a gear/brake drum was mounted directly on the spindle. The scrap box supplied the tube but I had to fit a plug in the end but this plug would not be needed if the bar is solid. The arm is cross drilled and reamed out to .5 to accept the bearing tube.The worm shaft tube is .5" CDS with 6mm brass bushes glued in the ends, a .25" reamer is fed in after fitting. The bearing tube is located by a screw down the center of the support arm, this screw is not locked down and in tension, but is tightened by torque only (the head is loose). A tapping hole was drilled through both components (only one wall was needed), then a No 2 tap fed in slowly checking the fit of the bolt occasionally until the bolt end can just be seen protruding through the tube wall, when the thread was tight at the tube/arm interface I called it located. Several holes could be drilled and tapped to cater for different worm/gear combination's, and with an asymmetric arm location too a quick 180 gives a degree of adjustment.
    The support collar for the division plate should really have been made from brass but the scrap box was lacking. The division plate carrier is ally, bored out to 1/2" to fit the bearing tube, the flange is .75" (Taig spindle fit). The div., plates are fixed to the carrier with 3 c/s screws @120 degs and .75" diam. The extended locking arm is brass and the knob on the end needs to be positioned so that it clears the div., disc radially but its edge is at least level with the the disc surface as it also functions as a datum/pointer. The sector arm is brass, slotted, standard issue but I've hung a clear pointer at one end for reading the protractor and a detent pin at the other. 
  • The ratcheting pen top mechanism moldings and the spring were kept and a pin was turned from brass to replace the ink cartridge. The ally housing slowed me down as I had to set up my pull through threading system and cut an internal pen thread. Once I realized a spring needs room to function I was home and dry. The ribbed ally (brass later) sleeve permits frantic action without friction burns. The whole thing works a treat.
  • and side on saved me the trouble of drawing a quick sketch to show the layout.
  • . No registration plate was req'd, just holes at the corners fitted with screws and large washers. I used a ratcheting lever on the clamping slot, initially I had thoughts of slackening this off and jumping teeth while counting in 12s! but that is slower than winding the handle. As can be seen I used delrin gears from HPC, and the fact that I had some ready made components to mount the gear on the end of the pulley lead me to prepare the clamping face with some cut grooves. 
  • T and my hex pin pressed into action, a bit mounted in the tool post on the cross slide and set to 7 thou did a splendid job, better than knurling I have examples of. While I had that system set up I reversed the head stock and mounted the dividing head assy., and clamped a previously prepared brass disc blank on the spindle for marking a protractor plate as per Tony Jeffree's article. I set the cut depth to 3 thou, many hours later and a quick polishing the markings were still crisp.
  • Brass sheet bored out to fit Taig spindle, soon to be mounted and turned to diam..
  • Slide the arm into the mounting clamp, the brake will hang down and slip over the pulley assuming the eccentric has been adjusted correctly, when the location collar abuts the mounting tighten the clamp and check the spindle is free, then release and rotate the arm until the worm engages the gear and tighten the clamp on the arm again.
  • To use it, release the div., plate clamp (datum) and detent pin, advance the disc assy., past the sector arm in DOR by the req'd number of degs/sectors, clamp it. Now wind forward to 'zero' and then the full number of turns as req'd.
    Throughout the development work on this dividing head I was constantly referring to Tony Jeffree's two designs and one of the ways I can see I have to go is to use my spare headstock with the legs removed to enable me to mount the device elsewhere on my lathe. Another idea I must follow up is T.J's 120 hole div., plate working to 1/10 deg., but I calculated a disc of 4 1/2" diam., to give 120 holes surrounded by metal, not 3". However I like the idea so much I have found a solution. One set of 60 holes (evens) which could be at 2 1/4" diam., and then another set of 60 holes (odds) offset 3 degs., at a slightly larger diam.. I had better get drilling. It is just his 'egg sucking' I have to try now.
  • on my drilling tailstock mod.. It will get you 1 1/2" closer to the headstock after reversing the tailstock when working over the xslide, it will also reduce side loads the ram puts on the clamping area at extreme ranges of movement.  I have only just noticed after all this time that I under claimed the advantages of my rotating the tailstock mod.. The improvement should have been 1-1/2" not 3/4".
    I have also just noticed that the bracket could be left in place when the tailstock is repositioned normally, and that it might be benificial if the ram works against the brass edge then some load is taken off the air gap and is transfered to the clamping bolt assy.? (I did drill the hole first then file the edge until I had a running fit with no rocking evident.)

  • a viable financial proposition to look at a taig lathe and the addition of 2 or 3 extra lathe beds when compared to the price of a dedicated cue lathe. There is a relatively simple method of aligning and fixing several lathe beds accurately, and it is only possible because as you state "the steel ground surface and dove tail are finished to a standard". All that is required is the lathe beds, sets of mounting bolts, a piece of 2x4 ( over kill?) box steel about 48" long for the bed, pre drilled with over size mounting holes, a good quality 48" straight edge, a supply of a 2 part epoxy (rapid?), a strong friend ( for when the project is completed) and access to a true flat surface -a large surface table, or a long lathe bed, maybe the neighbour's marble kitchen worktop!
    The method - invert the lathe beds and set them up end to end, align them with straight edge, mix epoxy and apply coating to the mounting plates, lower the box section with greased dangleing mounting bolts into position and let time and gravity do the work, clean excess epoxy before it sets on surface table or kitchen worktop. When the epoxy has cured nip up the mounting bolts. Some locating dowels in each mounting plate would not go amiss. With your strong friend turn the assy over and install in req'd location. The beds are aligned as acurately now as they were inverted.
  • , initially based in a BSA Airsporter I decided to use the trigger assy., and barrel/ cyl., assy.. The parts were measured and my recoilless system components were made, I managed to make my recoiless assy., only 17gms heavier than the original piston/spring but could not make them fit, the fault was traced to an incorrect manufacturing proceedure when making the cocking slot, the slot was lengthened to remove the fault and some components remade as the stroke was reduced to 2 3/4". To cut a long story short the cylinder had to be rejected and the barrel shortened and a new cylinder assy., made and a few components remade to get the stroke to 3 1/8". Needless to say all the components fit now. The pictures show my 'bookends lathe' constructed to work on cylinders and barrels, picture is posed,  the gap arrangement is forward planning just in case I have some large diam., work to swing, no riser blocks are needed for the head and tail stock. The current progress, I have just got the cocking geometry sorted, the scope dovetails to do then some internal tweeking and the stock to attack so that I can fit it to my shoulder. The strange layout of the rifle is due to the the bsa starting point. In the latest configuration on paper I have the whole recoilless assy., in one cylinder with side lever cocking.
  • has the sewing machine motor drive revised, it could really do with 1/2ing the speed again but it can handle crowning and breech work on barrels and cleaning up the ends of compression cylinders. Pics of that show another use for my never ending supply of 2 1/2" ally channel and left over pulleys from my Thread Box project.
  • is nearing testing. Some staged pics of where I am now, as it is not charged up (no seals fitted). The cocking linkage has had its final tweek, I have made a scope rail, repositioned the rear sight after shortening the barrel and experimented with cold blue (should have used steel wool). It is only now I have got this far that I realise I have not allowed for safely discharging the air spring to permit servicing. So much for being so clever with my two piece, no moving parts charging system that will now require modifying!
    Some more metal arrived this morning for the improved version of my recoil less system, it is so tempting to proceed with it and shelve the air sporter as the construction is so simple.
  • ", shifting the pitch input workings from the front to the back, making use of redundant fittings and applying some markings. I think the back plate has had about as much recycling as possible so a new one will be the last job on this project.
    I am going to put my feet up now."
  • " and found another quick job on my Thread box, as the pic will show I turned down the large gear boss to accept the coupling system for the 20 - 80 tpi range. That brass pitch input knob is from my plumbing box again, just a step down adapter with a nylon insert."
  • , I have gone from a radial grub screw to an axial one, the 90 deg., edge is better than the radius.
  • , ready for port work on my experimental engine cylinders.
    I had a piece of 1x2x4 aluminium that should be up to the job, all I had to do was bore a 25mm hole and numerous mounting holes. The design of the mount meant I could not swing it in the lathe, I did not think that I could easily adjust the cut on a between centres boring bar so I opted for a boring head and I made one out a piece 1/2x1 ally., and fitted my Glanz 6mm boring bar. The whole thing is mounted in my chuck, it can be easily centred and the cut tweaked a thou at a time on the opposing jaws, the milled groove acts as a pivot point on the torquey side of the block, the nut and bolt is needed to balance the jaws! The drive mounting block was clamped to the x-slide and a 22mm hole saw pressed into action, then the hole opened out to 25mm with my boring head. As the pics show my flexi drive can be mounted on the x-slide and milling slide in different positions. It was only after drilling all the mounting holes and having a cup of tea I realised that if I removed a 1/2" piece from the top surface I could invert the block and mount the flexi drive on the compound in an out rigger fashion, and the shaft conveniently clears the winding gear! I have no excuse now for grinding my ports wrong.
  • until I found several examples on the net, and then I was only spurred into action when I glanced inside my odds n' sods tin and noticed the configuration of the eccentric bush/pinion shaft from a carriage assy., and a 20tpi bolt! I played with the items for a few minutes and the grey matter started working, this led to the construction on the left in the picture. At this stage in the proceedings I still required a tool bit clamping/stop method and a two(!) lever operating system, things looked a bit messy so I resolved to start again using round tool bits and a split clamping method as per tail stock to simplify things. I slept on this. By the morning another new design was in my head, the lump on the  right in the picture. It is just standard Taig TP size, 5 holes to drill, 2 slots to mill, 3 simple turnings and a bit of tapping and threading. The lever/cam gave me agro but it operates a treat. The round tool bit slides through a brass sleeve let into the tool post and the bit clamping bolt, a location collar is clamped to the end of this using a smaller bolt, the plain portion of this operates in a slot for alignment purposes and the protruding head of this bolt is acted on by the cam/operating lever. The collar location sets the protrusion of the tool bit and the angle of the cut for left or right feeding. A piano wire spring housed in the bottom of the tp spring loads the tool bit collar into the cutting position where it abuts the milled face. The cam controls the timing and amount of retract movement. Sorry no pictures of swarf, just finished components and sequence of operations req'd as I remember.
    NOTE. Threading dim (x), I tried 6mm, 3/16 and 1/4" diam., and pitches 20-40, 20 is a bit coarse for clamping and 40 gives a lot of lever movement!
    Locate some 1" sq., aluminium stock and turn to tool post length, drill and recess for mounting bolt. Mount tp on the xslide and drill through 1/4" diam., 3/16"" in from front edge (that's the tool bit height sorted). Turn bush from 3/8" brass .8" long , to be a tight fit in the 1/4" post hole with a flange at one end for seating, part off and super glue in place. Mount tp again rotate 90 degs clkws and drill back side across the brass bushing 3/8" diam., 3/8" deep 1/4" in from the edge, then through drill (x)" diam.. Turn the clamping bolt from 3/8"diam., steel, 3/8" long stepped down to (x)"diam, 1.35" LOA., thread last 3/8" with (x)" LH thread. Finish to running fit. Fit bolt and camp in place. Mount tp, turn back 90 degs anticlk to drill through and ream the bush and clamped bolt to 1/8" diam.. Remove the clamping bolt and turn .020" from the steped face to permit clamping action. Rotate tool post 180 degs and mill 3/8"diam., "D" slot .3" deep. mill 3mm horizontal slot 1/4" deep to house the long bolt. Invert the tp and drill the 3/16" spring housing, 3/16" in (in line with the bit hole) and .22" back to break through to the "D" slot. Drill and tap at bottom of hole for a spring retaining grub screw. Turn collar from brass .36" diam., .32 wide and 1/8" bore. Drill and tap 3mm .12" from one edge to accept the collar bolt. Drill 1/16" hole in the bottom of the collar about .07 from the edge to accept the 18g piano wire spring. Grind 3/4 of the spring length to a flat section to give some flex (or obtain thinner wire). The components are now assembled in order to align the cam and lever assy..
    The clamping nut was turned from brass 1/2" hex stock to 3/8" diam., for 1/4" and 1/8" left with flats for spanner work, drilled and tapped for (x)" LH thread. The lever was made from a piece of 1/8" brass 2" long with a 3/8" hole to fit the nut boss. The cam could be made from 1/8"x 1/2" brass with a 3/8" hole to fit the nut boss also, the length (peak) of the cam can be measured from the tool post bolt range and then a slope filed to get a smooth action. The critical part of the operation harmonising the cam and lever action, is achieved by fitting a spanner to the locked assy., and slackening off, go another 10degs and bring the cam to contact the bolt head, the cam/lever/nut assy., should be soldered in this position. The working position of the lever on the tp (horizontal locked) can be set by packing washer thickness, max., req'd obviously less than the thread pitch.
  • , but this week I decided to address a major moan of mine - the short comings in the design of the drilling tailstock, I have previously mentioned the reduction of ram side loads on the air gap due to linkage geometry, (easily accomplished by increasing the hole spacing on the lever by 1/16"). However the problem of side loads on the 1/8" clamping air gap remained so I rotated the arm assy., through 90degs., to the vertical position, I recycled a piece of 1"x1/2" ally from an old project, milled a slot and drilled a hole to accept the Taig links from the top location. This assy., is bolted onto the back of the tailstock under the overhang, as per the pictures. Now the loads are on the top and bottom of the clamping surfaces. I can still hang my hat on the lever and there is a smaller bench footprint. The only disadvantage I have found so far is that in this configuration the assy., can not be rotated on the bed but if a bracket and linkage assy., is mounted on top using the T slots then this is possible but then the lever action is reversed!  Oh well, you can't have it al ways - yet!
  • , having mentioned the possibilities of a T slot mounting for the drilling lever assy., so I spent a day at the bench to work it out, the pictures show progress.
    I elected to fabricate a T bracket with two swinging links and a new lever assy..

  • by having two sets of holes, to cater for either set up. A  new pin and the holes reamed out, everything is really sweet, it feels much better than the standard side mounted system.
  • The modifications involve simplifying the construction and beefing it up a little.
    The machined rod guides that clamp to the headstock have been replaced by two 1 1/2" washers with a flat filled on each to clear the spindle and a clamping bolt. The rods have been changed to 5/16" diam.
  • , three bits of sq., ally from the scrap box, the through the spindle attachment for the thread samples and the delrin cartridge to accept the same. 
  • on the corner of the bed /headstock junction.
    The rods centralise the washer over the  void.
  • I Photoshopped the lathe out.
  • ( Seig X3???) and thought it advisable to check on the web for tips. Well that got me worried so I set mine up the best I could an noticed  I had 80 division of slack (2mm) in  my fine feed knob!!! Well there was end play and axial play, I shimmed most of the axial play out but
  • as it was made in the wrong shack, check the alignment in the pics.,it must have been drilled with a hammer!To make matters worse the worm gear shaft presessed instead of rotating, only by leaving the bearing block loose could I get free rotation of the input dial! I could see that the only solution would be a new shaft and universal joints. So- I had a cup of tea then attacked a piece of delrin rod with the Taig, the result is shown in the pictures.
  • ., at each end and 45 degs., between them,  as long as the shaft drillings are short of the slots, it works a treat. There is sure to be another sucker out there with the same problem, I hope this helps.
  • how come it took me 24 hours to realise that the flexi milling shaft mod., I have sent you will also get round one of my pet hates of the power drive, the spring connection. I have just measured an axial movement of 0.125" on my lathe.Here is a picture of my original solution to this problem - a bit of work, now residing in my scrap box.
  • down to 16mm od and a length of 2.2", a 1/4" diam., 1/2" hole at the input end. The other end finished up at 6.9mm diam., by 5/8" deep to accept the spring end of the power drive.  Drill and tap for lock screws. Two pairs of opposed slots were found to give enough flexibility and with no measured end float apart from 0.001" on the gearbox output shaft.
  • on YouTube of manufacturing "smooth twist" barrels and as usual I fortified myself with a cup of tea and pondered. I came up with a simple jig that could swap between different twist rates and also progressive twist. The initial results showed promise as can be seen from the over cooked sample in the picture.
  • showed I needed a travelling rest and a method of mounting the same, so a long overdue attachment was born, using my new mill. I built up a bridge T slot and mounted it on the carriage, with clearance for a hex key to make adjustments. I used two 4mm screws with the heads turned down to 5mm to slip in the T slot for fixing.
  • , job to the Taig fixed rest and bolted it to the rear face of my T slot (I shimmed it 0.010" over the bed for location).
  • but just a set up
  • or you missed a few photos of my power feed flexi support bracket for the delrin coupling modification of Dec., but just in case I took a few more.
  • - I finally got round to rejigging my old quick change wind it/lever action drilling system for the now vertically configured lever. Just 2" of 20 tpi rod and a little piece of angle bolted under the overhang, so I can wind it in slow rotate the pin 90 degs., to disengage and yank it back fast, if required.
  • , by adopting the Ed Maisey solution, however I was short of 3/4"ally, but I did have some 1/2" left over from my first slim line attempt that proved to be secure but fiddly to clamp.  I decided to swap the configuration over and mount the male part of the annular dovetail on the cross slide and recess the compound slide, two fixed tabs and one adjustable tab would secure  and lock the compound to the cross slide. The original Taig working height is retained so no riser blocks would be req'd. I started making swarf.
  • , so I stopped. But a few hours later I had the inklings of an idea so I started on a new piece. I find it easier to rub out marker pen than sweep up swarf.
  • A 3" piece of 2"X1/2" ally bar was milled down to .44 thick and the edges cleaned up. After drilling 1/4" hole for the lead screw and milling a recess for the Taig split nut I drilled a parallel hole and tapped it 5mm for the 2" clamping bolt. I then turned it over and machined a 1 1/2" diam.,x 0.125" deep recess.
  • to undercut the recess, not recommended, I finished up grinding myself a cutter to do a proper job.
  • , there is not much in the way of clearances, more like alignments.
    The dovetail machining is a case in point I had to stop short of the hole and raise the cutter to keep the profile workable.
  • , so I cut it in half!
  • , now for the the other bit.
  • ., less than recess depth, the diam., is turned down until it seats in the recess and the clamped gap is about 1/16". The T nut/cs screws set up is critical, heads machined flush with the disc surface, length about 0.37" if I remember right. The screws should be tightened until the assy., just slips along the T slots on the xslide. Now peen or Loctite the little blighters or you will start swearing when it fails.
    The assy., is left in situ.
  • . Would recommend full engagement of split halves when adjusting angular/lateral position on top slide.
  • on my compound slide. With the workings centred 0.25" over the base things were going to be more than tight. I thought about turning things upside down but the simple solution was to move things from the attic to the basement and invert the spring drilling.
  • I had an epiphany. My original design has a 1/4" bushing cross drilled for the 3/8" clamping shaft (not a lot of clearance!) so I swapped things around and made the bushing 3/8" and cross drilled 1/4" for the clamping shaft, easier to make too. I just added a 1/4" threaded portion to the shaft end initially for clamping in the tool post when cross drilling to take the 1/8" tool bit, then removed it after. The clamping collar had tweek too, just a saw slot instead of a drilling.   
  • was just as much fun setting up. Both tool-posts function a treat, but in hindsight you only need to make the version with the workings at the base, and make a 1" spacer! (and a long bolt). Another advantage of this system is that the toolbit can be clamped in any position in the tool post and ground using a spindle mounted stone.
  • I find I now have to remove a few thou., off the diam., of my zero-able dials, when will it end?
  • , I sabotaged ( modified ) a spare backplate and persuaded it to fit. It dials in OK! As I had a bit of spare time I thought I would give it my 50,60&72 indexing treatment. The years are taking their toll and I had to resort to scanning back to January 2011 to remind myself how I did the job! Well I located the gears and spacers and with an additional spacer to cope with the thickness of the backplate, I set too. The '72' row nearly finished and no cock ups!
  • And now a new pin/slotted lever assy., with an extended slot is req'd for this (next job).
  • , was most welcome when carrying out the indexing job, just a stubby knob 180 degs., out from the spinner on the hand wheel, great for feeding in with finger and thumb.
  • at last I have sorted the design of the hand crank/auto feed option, so really I just need to sort the engraving/etching of the front.
  • , it took. 40 secs., to hang the unit on the headstock.
  • a further 20 secs.
  • , but if I fine off by 48 divs., then I have gone metric at 0.6.
  • and I had a pitch for 6ba, we use that a lot this side of the pond, and no swapping  gears about.
  • over did not improve the situation. I scanned the all the normal websites for a method of preloading the jaws that would allow a full length grind. Drilling the jaws and fitting bolts, wire tensioning were some of the methods I came across, but one involved a machined plate ( "Daisy"?) that all the jaws locked onto. A lot of work- time for a cup of tea and an alternative solution.
  • but 1/2" brass blocks.
  • , set to protrude into the centre. Each block is set halfway up the angled jaw face and the adjacent jaw is wound in to nip it. When both blocks are in position the selected jaw is clamped down against the blocks ready to grind. A cleaning session after each jaw grind is required.
  • wound in and out does the job.
    DTI checks after proved satisfactory.
  • and acquired a box of LPs from a friend it seemed from a trawl of the internet that it was imperative that I clean my vinyl before proceeding. Methods were analysed and expensive equipment for cleaning the grooves was studied and of course I did what I do best, have a cup of tea and get the pencil and paper out, this resulted in two gadgets that can be used on existing turntables or mounted on a dedicated cleaning rig with a vacuum pump installed.
  • The first gadget is for cleaning the grooves using the appropriate  cleaning fluid, it comprises piece of paint pad measuring 1"x4" bonded to a piece of acrylic sheet. Adaptors turned out of acetal for alternate mountings fit in either end, the brush has to be reversed because the bristles have a definite lie.
    Once the grooves have been scrubbed 3 or 4 times each way they need vacuuming. I managed to come up with a simple device combining the vac., connection and unipivot in one unit, a sort of inverted roller ball applicator that seals instead of leaking.
    The vacuum arm is fabricated from 12mm acrylic tube, the end bar has a 4" slot in its lower surface. The self adhesive pads were cut from the spares of a 0 machine.
  • is located 6" 'ish from the vacuum bar and this has an 8mm hole drilled through from the bottom.
    The 20mm ball sits on a 20mm diam., acetal pedestal, in a 14 mm diam., seating, this provides the seal and permits adequate movement. The seating is drilled down to the output coupling (length of pen case). The ball seating permits arm elevation and axial movement to cope with mat thickness and warped records (I have many of those) and if a cleaning head is attached to the arm and the' turntable direction reversed then the arm can be moved 90 degs., to the other side of of the record, the captive sleeve that locates the ball pivot on top of the pedestal controls the arm position.
  • , fabricated from a piece of "U" channel plastic that clips on the arm.
  • in the corners of the plinth using double sided tape, but I can foresee a through mounted arrangement directly coupled to a vac., pumpnot on my new deck though.
  • was a pair of Hifi speaker cavity phase plugs, these replace the centre dust cap on the drive unit. More internet research on the theory behind the design and the improved performance claimed sent me to the work shop, I turned some 1" lengths of acetal bar stock and made two hollow plugs with a hole in the base as in the photos.
  • that would stick to the speaker pole piece. The whole assy.,  is turned down to a clearance fit inside the speaker coil. Testing was an eye opener (should be ear opener), the performance in the treble range was astonishing, so much do that I am going to make a few more for my other drive units. I recommend this gizmo to all Hifi nuts.
  • when I was checking the latest on the airgun side of you blog, a picture of my lathe carriage showing the hand wheel and x-feed dial and lead screw popped up.
    No sippin' whiskey or cup of tea  involved this time but I suddenly realised that if the powered drive was turning with the carriage locked on the lathe bed then the hand wheel rotates! Why not couple the hand wheel to the X-feed  dial and have that powered? How come I never made this connection (groan) before?
  • The layout lent itself to some sort of belt pulley arrangement so I dismantled my zero-able dial and turned and fitted a pulley to the X-feed. I turned a new hand-wheel pulley and mounted it on a shaft extension so that a belt would line up. I fabricated a suitable belt and powered up the arrangement. Well it worked but with a lot of slip, so I have opted for positive drive from toothed belt and pulleys.
  • and slimmed down to 4mm. For now I have a small fixed toothed pulley screwed to the inside face of the X-feed dial and a large pulley that is free to rotate on the hand-wheel shaft extension. The pulley/hand-wheel coupling is made by a 1/8" pin that slips through the wheel knob into one of the holes drilled in the pulley, this is to be replaced by the pen ratchet system as on my indexing attachment. A belt tensioning fitting clamps on the apron dove tails.
  • , LOCK the carriage, wind in on Y to engage the hand wheel drive pin, couple the power-feed elastic band, switch on, the hand wheel will now drive the X-feed via the belt. To stop, switch off, decouple power feed band and hand wheel, then the carriage clamp, do things in the wrong order and all the good work gets ruined as the tool keeps advancing towards the chuck. You can of course make cuts from the centre by crossing the power-feed elastic band.
    The cut is very fine at 2:1, I am going to try 4:1 next week, but if I find myself with a hand full of gears, then I might try 10:1. Normal drive from the gearbox will feed the X-slide in, reverse the elastic band and of course the power feed reverses and that drives the X-slide back out.

Guy Zattau's Taig Lathe and Taig CNC Mill

  • The white things are the trippers and the run close to the brackets that hold the micro switches.
  • #'s 1, 2, 3 are the X axis that mounts on using the holes for the rubber way protector. It mounts using the two end holes with access holes thru the top for an allen wrench. The rubber is sandwiched in between. The slot is 3/8" by 1/2" and the relief for the post is 3/8". Material is 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x 6 1/2". I used .080" but it's a little too thick and makes it hard to get the trip levers to actuate the micro switches.
  • made from 1" x 2" x 7 1/2" x .058". It is mounted using the holes tapped in the vertical axis post that mounts the power switch. Compression posts made of tubing sleeve the holes. Holes on the part next to the post are clearanced for the screw and the ones on the outside are just big enough for the tubes to pass and finish up flush.
  • , made of 1" x 1" x 8" x .058" with two brackets. The brackets are 2" tall with a 1 5/8" foot, 1" x 1 1/2"
     wide. The micro switches are approximately 1" x 3/4" x 1/2" and are mounted with 4-40 countersunk screw so the moving parts clear. The trip devices are made of a Teflon like material machined to ride on the moving component just off the surface of the brackets and tripping the actuator lever of the micro switch. It may be necessary to add a piece of shim stock to the lever to make them work, I used .030, glued to the lever with epoxy. 
  • The Z is a simple angle piece with a small ramp cut at the top so it can allow the Z axis to go to the limit. X was made as one piece, then cut in half. Drilled the holes first then milled away the sides to leave a ridge. The ridge centers the part and prevents the screws from marring the groove in the table. Cut the 4-40 allen screws to length so they don't bottom against the back of the nut retainer slot in the table. The Y is a piece of work and difficult to get off as it is necessary to remove the microswitch bracket first. The drawing that is enclosed with the copy's I sent you is probably more understandable that what I can write. It's a goofy design but the best I could come up with at the time. All the material I sent you is just meant to be an idea and not an exact blueprint. Everyone should make their own measurements. The main theme was to not drill any holes in the machine, just use the existing ones.
  • while searching taig cnc mill on google. Here is the rest of the story. I just got the switches working and guess what?, they didn't always work reliable. So here is the fix and pics. A piece of brass .350"x.092" filed to a triangular shape, long enough to cut six .170" wide pieces. The top of the micro switch actuating lever and bottom of the brass piece are mildly scraped to make for better adhesion. Clean surfaces and use crazy glue to adhere the piece to the switch. Use a needle to apply a very small amount then once it is stuck add a small amount if there are any visible voids. I  tugged on them and it looks like they are strong. The ramps on the trigger pieces also have to be filed to about 60 degrees and may have to be adjusted for position.

Steve Fornelius' Taig Lathe

  • , "I needed a following rest for my lathe and after a basically fruitless search, I decided to heavily modify on by JR Bentley.
    I had to make it simple, because I don't have a mill to make anything fancy!  If you can tell me how to post to your site, I'll submit there.
    Anyway, here's the gist of the project:
    One piece 3/4" x 1/2" four inches long for the base
    One piece 3/4" x 1/2" fly cut to 1/2" x 1/2" x 3 inches long for the crosspiece
    Two pieces 3/4" x 1/2" fly cut to 1/2" x 1/2" x 2 inches long for the upright and guide support
    Two pieces of  1/4" brass rod for guides
    Five 3/4 inch 10-32 socket head cap screws
    Simple drilling, tapping and counterboring for the cap head screws.  I found I could use my Delta 9" bandsaw to cut the metal, so I saved a lot of hacksawing!
  • so that I could mount my dial indicator on the headstock arbor.  Using this I'm able to get the variance of the milling attachment to less than .001 easily.
    The unit is simple to make:  Use a blank arbor, drill halfway through with cut down 1/2 inch drill (available at any hardware store.  I drilled and tapped a 10-32 hole to take a SHCS.  Since you're not turning on the lathe with this in place it isn't important how long the screw is.
    For the holder itself,  II used a piece of 1/2" 12L14 stock about 3 inches long.  I used a 3/8" mill and the milling vice to cut down both sides so the finished size is about 1/4" thick.  The reason for this is to allow the dial indicator plunger and dial to clear the holder.I drilled a 1/4" hole in the end.
    To use this, mount the dial indicator with 1/4-20 bolt and nut, then slide the holder into the adapter.and tighten down the set screw.  Screw the adapter onto the headstock arbor.  Put the workpiece into the milling vice and move the crossslide down so that the indicator goes around at least once.  Crank the cross slide until one side of the workpiece is indicating and gently tighten the rear milling adapter screw.  Crank to the other side of the workpiece and note the difference in readings.
    Then I simple twist the milling attachment so that the indicator reads 1/2 the difference.  I keep moving the crossslide back and forth, adjusting out the variance until there is no movement of the indicator needle.  Then I tighten down both milling attachment screws evenly and recheck the variance.  The first couple of times you will probably need to loosen the screws and adjust again, but it works better than any other way I've tried.  I can get a repeatable  0.0005 cut on the milled pieces when cutting grooves.
  • a Headstock Dial Indicator Holder. We all need a way to hold a dial indicator so that we can align workpieces in the independent jaw chucks.  I tried putting a steel plate on the headstock with double faced tape, and while that worked, I still needed to take off the whole thing before I machined. I decided to make a simple fixture that would hold the shaft of the dial indicator, but would be able to swing out of the way once the measurements were done.  I came up with this idea: Turn a cylinder from steel that fit the hole in the dial indicator clamp.  I made mine about 1.5 inches high.  Then turn and thread one end 10-32 so that the square nut will thread on it.  Make the threaded end about 3/8" long.  Thread on a nut and slide it into the slot on the headstock.  Tighten gently, and file off the end of the threads so that the base sits flat on the headstock when tightened into the nut, but when loosened, the base slides easily.  This allows for about 3 inches of front-to-back movement, and the length of the commercial dial indicator shaft (with adjuster) lets me go out about 5 inches on a shaft to check for runout.

Irv Bakeland's Sherline Motor Adaptation to the Taig Mill

  • on the Taig Mill:
    Caution:  Make sure to unplug the mill before making this conversion.  Also, hand turn the spindle to make sure that there is no interference before powering up the converted mill.
    1.   Unplug the mill,  remove the belt, the motor, the motor mounting post, the switch box and the cord.   Lay aside the two "square nuts" that are used to mount the motor post.  These are needed to mount the Sherline motor bracket.
    2.  Loosen the spindle pulley setscrew with a 3/32 inch hex wrench.  Using a heat gun or an 1800 watt hair dryer. set on high, heat the spindle pulley.  Do NOT overheat, as you may melt the grease in the top bearing. Using an oven mitt. pull off the old Taig spindle pulley.  Notice the flat spot on the spindle shaft that the setscrew locks onto. 
    3.  This is a good time to adjust the preload on the bearings with the preload nut to eliminate any vetical movement of the spindle.  Lay the specially made aluminum spacer sleeve over the stub of the spindle and then the modified Sherline spindle pulley onto the top of the spindle shaft, with the setscrew position aligned with the flat on the shaft.  Depending on your particular spindle shaft,  the pulley will slide on with minimum  or no pressure.  It has been machined for easy install and removal to allow access to the spindle preload nut.  Tighten the setscrew with the 3/32" hex wrench.
    4.  Place the two short special length stainless socket headed screws through the two round holes in the zinc dicast Sherline motor mounting bracket.  Thread the two saved Taig "square nuts" onto the ends of the capscrews until their tips are even with the end of the threads on the nut.
    5.  Slide the square nuts of the assembly into the "T" slot of the milling head on the right side with the corner of the bracket even with the top corner or end of the "T" slot.   Finger tighen the screws to make sure that they do not bottom out on the bottom of the "T" slot.  If they do, use the supplied washers under the head of each screw to prevent the screws from bottoming on the "T" slots.
    6.  Make sure that the belt is on the large sheave of the motor pulley inside of the belt guard.  Wrap the belt over the small sheave of the spindle pulley with the motor controller unit tilted to the left.  Carefully position the motor controller unit until it lays down with the two aluminum mounting holes align with the slots of the motor bracket.  Using the two 3/4 inch long socketed headed screws with the included washers,  thread the screws through the bracket slots into the aluminum  threaded motor mounting holes.  Apply light tension to the belt by sliding the motor unit to the right.  Tighten the screws.
    7.  Turn the spindle by hand to make sure there is no interference or drag on the assembly.   The clearance between the belt guard and the top of the spindle pulley should be about 3/32 inch, the thickness between the 3/32 hex wrench's flats.  If you experience any vibration, it would be due to incorrect belt pulley alignment.  Belt drives are very forgiving.  A little wobbe or misalignment is acceptable, as long as there is no vibration.  All motors and drives, like machines and machine tools vibrate a little due to "backlash."  Machines adjusted too tight are hard to move and will generate excessive heat.
    8.  You have completed the conversion.  Enjoy near vibrationless variable speed operation  of your new Sher-Taig Mill.
  • that I made for the standard Taig tool post from a two inch long 5/16 SAE Grade 8 bolt.
    Using carbide tools, cobalt drills, and grinders,  I used my long time experience with machining hardened and forged materials to make them.
    Standard hardware store bolts or easier to machine Grade 5 bolts could also be used.
    The cavity at the bottom of the tool post was just drilled out with a 5/16 inch bit to a depth of approximately 7/8 inches.

Ed Maisey's Compound Slide Modifications.

  • " with the Hardinge HLVs  the mod is a scaled down version of their eccentric top slide locking arrangement. Applying this feature increases the centre line height by .250 above centre, but I believe that problem can be solved by either making two 1/4 in riser blocks (my preference) it will not weaken the stability of the lathe to any extent, or the other alternative would be a drop down tool holder but there would be no opportunity to be able to move the tool bit.
  • from an original set on my Drummond "M" type they are manufactured by KRF Omni-Post they work very well, and I had their permission, The Sensitive Knurling tool is in 3/4 scale from full size from Hemingways UK.

Pat Miller's Taig

  • mounted his Taig lathe on the bed of his large wood lathe and is driving it from his variable speed spindle

Eldon Johansen's Taig Mill Modifications

  • (the 10-32 threads and clearance hole on the dovetail clamp have been drilled out for 1/4th inch clearance)
    I highly recommend making this modification! 
  • of 1.25 inch wide angle iron 1/4th thick. (left over from a failed project) and it worked well, but i would do it again differently ( actually, i did, i'll upload some new photos soon.) (the new cradle i built is cement filled 2 inch square steel tubing.) another modification that is visible in the photos but hard to make out is i removed the bar behind the Z axis and mounted it 4 inches higher, then welded a brace on the back of the mill. (i'll get a few more photos soon) (however, i don't recommend anyone do this because welding the bar will warp it, i spent some time with a file and a grinder to smooth it out, even a few thousanths of warpage will cause the Z axis to bind) the reason why i did this is because the mill only has 5 inches of Y axis travel for the first two inches of Z axis travel. the Z axis leadscrew and ways get in the way, and the stock arrangement has the axis of the spindle sitting 3.75? inches away from the leadscrew.. i've run things into the leadscrew before...
  • so they extend an inch further out toward the operator. 1.5 inch long steel tube sections hold the y axis stepper motor 1.5 inches further toward the operator.flipping the ways over will also compensate for wear by swapping left and right.
    flipping them end over end will move one of the mounting holes, and you will have to drill and tap one hole in each one (might not be necessary for light milling)

Chris Smith's Taig Lathe

Doug Jones's Taig Lathe

  • and in the process, I found another use for the pins I made that fit the holes in the soft jaws.  After boring the rough blank and making the necessary cuts on the face of the hub, I clamped it to a piece of 1/2 inch bar that serves as a mandrel to hold the hub.  Turning off the roughly hacksawed circumfrence produced lots of impact loadings on the much smaller diameter mandrel, loads that would easily cause it to slip in the chuck, so I stuffed one of the pins back into the hole in the chuck jaw to serve as a dog.  This worked quite well.
    I took the photo just prior to the final clean-up cuts on the exterior of the hub.  Most of the hacksawed perimeter of the hub has been converted to swarf -- and if you look at the tool, it's a 3/16" square shank boring bar, shimmed to fit the tool holder.  It has cutting edges in the right places, so I used it.  The carriage depth stop is really handy when you're cutting right up to the jaws as I am in this case.
  • , I mounted it temporarily on a chunk of scrap wood.  This spring, I started to build a nice base for the lathe.  It's not quite operational yet (I need to do the fine adjustment on the belt alignment and then connect the motor wiring) but it's finished enough to show off in some photos (attached).
    The baseboard is made of MDF (a leftover cabinet door cut down to size) with an aluminum plate (the lid of a surplus bit of electronics junk) epoxied to the MDF as a work surface.  I used about 300 pounds of sand bags to clamp the assembly, and then I used a router to carve off the final 1/8 of an inch all around to square up the edges.  Routing aluminum, you get a lot of chip welding unless you scrape beeswax onto the edge you're going to cut.  That completely solves the problem.  After cutting, I painted all the cut edges.
    The on-off switch, circuit breaker and reverse switch are built into the pedestal, along with a microswitch that currently powers everything down if the top cover is opened, but will eventually interlock with a belt guard.  The motor is a salvaged GE 1/4 horse capacitor-run motor, so it is easy to reverse, but it takes a fairly large capacitor.  That fills a good chunk of the pedestal and sits in a well routed into the base.
  • 1 inch wide by 2 inch deep extruded architectural aluminum channel, with some smaller chunks of 3/4 by 3/4 inch channel for bracing.
    The motor mount is calculated to put 12.5 pounds of weight on the belt, based on a 10 pound motor (I weighed it first, then did the motor mount calculations).  That's based on the Gates recommendations for the tension on their series 3M belts -- they suggest a minimum tension per strand of 5 pounds, and a maximum of 7.5 pounds.  For two strands (a full loop of belt), that's a total tension of 10 to 15 pounds, so I aimed for the middle.
  • to flip inward to make a small package for storage, or to hang out of the way in back to run the lathe.  Working out the details of that led me to buy a Gates 3M650 belt.  This is actually shorter than the 5M800 belt that came with the lathe when I bought it from E-bay.  I have no clue how its original owner mounted it.  Perhaps it was a below-the-bench motor mount.
  • , push-off switch.  Inside the base, you can see that it's just a plain toggle switch, with a knob that pushes and pulls the toggle.  The knob has hard stops in both directions, so you never put stress on the switch handle no matter how hard you bang the knob to turn off the lathe.  There's a grip turned on the aluminum knob for pulling, and the front has a red PVC insert (convention says that pushing a red switch ought to turn things off).  I knew that I wanted a red insert, but how to make it?  The answer turned out to be polymer clay.  I used Sculpy Primo, but I suspect that Fimo or regular Sculpy would work about as well.  I turned a tapered hollow in the front of the knob, and then cut grooves into the taper so that when I pressed in the polymer clay, it would lock in place.  Then I baked the entire knob to turn the clay into hard PVC.  The finish on the front face of the PVC was achieved by pressing the soft clay in place against a sheet of saran wrap against a clean countertop, and then carefully peeling off the saran wrap and blotting up the thin layer of clay that remained on the aluminum edge of the front face.
  • (and spindle center).
    I decided that I wanted a headstock spindle dead center in the style Dean Williams described here:
    I started with a chunk from an old 1/2 inch wheel bolt from a lawnmower.  I already knew that this was a fairly hard steel bolt.
    First, I turned the small tubular extension that goes beyond the taper, then drilled and tapped my chunk of steel 1/4-20 to fit the drawbar for my headstock depth stop.  For drilling and tapping, I used the follower from my taper attachment as a handle on the tailstock.  That's where it spends most of its time since I can squeeze it like a bicycle brake handle to put pressure on a drill.
    Tapping the hard steel of the old bolt required quite a bit of force.  As you can see in the photo, it kept slipping in the 3-jaw chuck, so I used a pair of vice-grip pliers to grab the bolt.  3 rubber bands (the kind they use to bundle broccoli) were just right to put pressure on the dead center that held the tail of the tap-wrench during tapping.  Photo shows the tapping setup.
  •   I pulled out the "poor man's taper attachment" that I made last year.  This consists of two 1/2 inch square aluminum bars that clamp onto the Taig bed dovetails.  The clamps are pieces of 3/4 inch architectural aluminum channel (with a 1/8 inch wall thickness) hinged to the bar.  The near-side clamp-screw goes through the bar and works from the top.  The far-side clamp-screw is permanently tight from the bottom, with a 1/8 inch shim holding it parallel to the bar.  Photo shows the bars.
  • to the bed on the top side of the bars for use in setting tapers.
    To use these as a taper attachment, I clamp the steel rule from my square to the two bars, setting the bars, say, 8 inches apart (as far apart as I can for the taper angle desired).  Then, using a dial caliper set to 8 times the tangent of the desired angle, and measuring relative to lines scribed on the top side of the bars.
    To set up to turn a taper, you set the point of your turning tool at the point where the taper begins, then loosen the follower and slide it out until it bumps the ruler.  Then, tighten everything down.  Photo shows this point.
  • and make a facing cut until the stop runs into the ruler.  Repeat this all the way up the taper, making a staircase of facing cuts, where the diameter of each cut is determined by the stop running into the ruler.  Finally, return the cutting tool to its starting point at the far end of the taper and drive the carriage toward the headstock by hand, backing off on the cross-slide to allow the taper attachment to push the carriage back toward you.  This finish cut removes the staircase and leaves a nice taper.  Photo 2749 shows the result.
    Finishing the headstock center isn't exciting, except that using this taper attachment to turn a 60 degree taper, I had to push the two bars so close together that the carriage only had under an inch of travel.  This was tight, but enough to turn the final point.  Leaving the taper in place in the headstock, I ran the tailstock dead center up to it and looked at them under my inspection microscope.  Dead-on and no wobble when I turned the spindle by hand.  That's not bad at all.

  • I looked around at the various toolposts people are using on the Taig, and I saw that some people have gone in for elaborate and expensive quick change tooposts, while others note that the stock toolpost is almost as quick to change and dirt cheap.  My main problem with the stock toolpost is fiddling with the nut on the bottom when trying to get it into the T-slot.  Why is the nut on the bottom?  Then I saw Irv Bakeland's modified T-slot nut and inspiration hit.
    Why not use a 1/4 inch bolt with its head modified to fit the T-slot?  That means drilling out the hole in the toolpost.  I did this on the Taig lathe as follows:
    First, clamp the stock Taig toolpost between centers over the cross-slide and crank lock the tailstock to hold the toolpost perfectly centered.  See photo.
  • I used a pair of 1/2 inch square posts, drilled 1/4 inch down the center and mounted on the cross-slide with a pair of my modified T-slot bolts.  Loosely tighten the bolts just enough that you can slide them snugly against the toolpost that's floating above the lathe bed, then loosely C-clamp the toolpost between the 1/2 inch posts.  With everything loosely clamped, you know you're not disturbing the centering of the toolpost.  Now, tighten everything a bit at a time making several rounds over all the screws until everything is solid.  See photo.
  • back off the carriage, and mount a 1/4 inch drill in the headstock collet holder.  Then, put something on the tailstock to use to push the carriage into the drill.  I don't like using the hand crank for this, it sometimes takes too much torque on the crank to get enough pressure on the drill. Better to use the tailstock lever for drilling.  Let it push the carriage forward.  Here, I did something mildly evil, I used the jacobs chuck as a pusher, with the chuck opened all the way so it would clear the 1/4 inch drill when it came through.  It would be better to use something like a die holder or just a block of scrap threaded to screw onto the tailstock center.  See photo, taken midway through drilling. (What's that receipt on the lathe bed?  I've found that it's easier to use paper to catch the swarf than it is to sweep up, so I frequently lay bits of paper around the cutting area.  Aluminum swarf like I'm making in the photo isn't a big issue, but when I'm cutting hard metal like the headstock dead center, the swarf is frequently finely ground and very abrasive when I try sweeping if off of the aluminum parts.)
  • I could turn nice little collars to fit the top of the toolpost(s), but for now, I'm just stacking brass washers high enough that my wingnuts clear the set screws.  I'll probably make high collars eventually, so I can replace the setscrews with cap screws.
    The bolts I'm currently using are grade 5 1/4-20 bolts.  I mounted each bolt in the collet and turned the face (now the bottom) of the bolt head to remove the markings there, and then hand filed the bolts to width to fit the T-slots.  This involved both filing 2 opposite flats on the side of the bolt head, and filing a "waist" on the top side of the head to fit the T-slot.  Perhaps someday, I'll replace these bolts with grade 8 1/4-28 bolts, but there's no rush.
    I particularly like the result for one simple reason:  I can slip them into the T-slots without tinkering with the nut on the bottom to align it.  You can do all the alignment from the top, and the wingnuts I'm using don't require any tools at all. By the way, I forgot to put the URL for Bakeland's T-slot nut that inspired what I did.  It's to an old post of yours, but why not keep things cross-referenced: --

  • The toolpost is built from plans on the website. I now use a KDK toolpost, which is better but much more expensive.
  • Makes changing gears less of a hassle.
  • The old pot-metal one broke in two.
  • The screws allow one to minutely adjust the angle the compound slide is set at, as well
    as locking the adjustment and preventing slippage.

New Pictures, January 18th, 2003

I rearranged my shop, so I thought I would take these pictures. We were able to convert the old barn out back into Jewelry studio space, so all the jewelry equipment was moved out of my shop, leaving more room. The shop is 21' x 11', with a small partition for the grinding room. There are two aisles running N/S around the Barker mill and Atlas lathe. Although a tight fit, I have crammed a lot of great machines in, and can even use them all as I try and keep the shop clean.

Since the last update I have added a Benchmaster vertical mill (awaiting restoration), a Barker lever feed horizontal mill (will be adding leadscrews to y & z axis), Lisle drill grinder and Kalamazoo 1" belt sander.

  • at grinding room: (back to front): Kalamazoo 1" belt sander, Delta 8" grinder, 2 Baldor Grinders, Lisle Drill Sharpener, metal and fastener storage.
  • , aisle #1 (CW from left): Barker Mill, 10" Atlas, Bench space, Jet 920 lathe, Sears 15" drill press, bench.
  • aisle #2 from aisle #1 (L to R): Taig CNC mill, Taig Manual Mill, Benchmaster vertical mill.
  • from end of aisle #1 (L to R): surface plate, large lazy susan drill index, Taig lathe.
  • from end of aisle #2 (L to R): Atlas 7" shaper, workbench with Dumore automatic drill press, microscopes and lights.
  • from end of aisle #2(L to R): Taig mills, Benchmaster mill, Atlas 6" lathe (with another behind it, for sale...)
  • from end of aisle #2: Buffalo drill press at end of shop.
  • from aisle #2 at aisle #1 (L to R): Workbench, with vises and arbor press, tool, metal and fastener storage, top of Jet 4x6 H/V bandsaw.
  • from aisle #2 at aisle #1 (L to R): Jet 920, Kennedy rollaway cabinet for drills, taps, csks, and general hand tools, Sears 15" drill press.
  • at wall of grinding room: File racks and drill chart, Lisle drill grinder.

Old Pictures, July 1st, 2001

Old Pictures:

  • .

You may notice that this page is hosted under another domain,, I decided to increase the amount of available bandwidth for pictures and this was the easiest way to achieve that.

All content copyright of the various contributors.

Похожие новости

Primark sportswear 2018 collection
Gold chains rapper 2018
Tacky engagement rings 2018
Indian gold chain necklace 2018
Yellow prom dresses under 200 2018
One direction cute drawings tumblr
Dior fashion sketches 2018
Thick poetic justice braids bun